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Old Dec 06, 2014, 10:02 AM
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Rallye 125's Avatar
Milano, Italy
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunr View Post
Thanks for the detailed critical feedback!
You're welcome. We're among micro heli pilots so I thought about sharing some useful infos. V911 talk is spread across many threads and each one is loaded with reports, impressions, reviews, comparations and mod suggestions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunr View Post
Regarding the battery mods, (don't know about the PRO version), did you see my post on my v911 battery mod?
Sorry, I didn't. Everytime I feel like contributing I can't deep sift through literally thousands pages and countless posts just to prevent possible duplicate informations or obviousness.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunr View Post
[...] Just lengthen/swap out the power leads and snip off/remove a bunch of the holder
Good point! That's just what I did as well, not without a twist though. (Pun unintentional. )


Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunr View Post
Once done, the battery slides neatly into the fuselage - no need to heat/stretch anything.
I guess that's easily accomplished on former V911 versions since either the original holder with flat terminals (à la Solo Pro) and the 'new plug' one (JST connector, same of mCP X batteries) pitch the battery upwards instead of keeping it parallel to the skids so that your mod should give little trouble, if any, in the way of sliding a battery more or less inwards. You can do the same on a Pro but you need to mod it since the cap holds the battery at a more conventional angle. A cutaway in canopy's bottom would give you room but the battery will still be in view - rather unsightly IMHO. Slanting the holder portion of Pro skid assembly up as in pre-Pro versions makes even more room.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ridgerunr View Post
Makes it easy to get the CG right while reducing overall weight by a couple grams.
Your photo depicts what probably is the optimal battery placement to achieve good balance on your V911. But a Pro needs the battery to be fully inside the canopy - and that's not enough so the heli still requires additional weight. Since both old and new V911 canopies gives the bird a rather long nose, I think I'll dump the washer mod (which by the way fits fine inside flat-bottomed 9958 canopy) and fill the nose with some kind of ballast. As a side benefit, the further away from main shaft the less weight required. I am currently waiting for a selection of spares I ordered a couple weeks ago from BG so I'll try some mods as soon as I receive them. Among the first I'll prepare a shortened tailboom and see what happens. Pro holds heading like a pro (pun intended) so that such a radical modification shouldn't introduce too much unstability or wobbliness of sorts. Later on I will post some pictures. I'll also install the upgraded swashplate, replace the flybar with the older kind (I found some MT-100 spares at a LHS) and prepare a new skid - take four!- to hold batteries the other way around.

I'll stay tuned. Thanks everybody for sharing.
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Old Dec 06, 2014, 06:06 PM
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United States, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined May 2012
165 Posts
Slow Mo 9958!

The following is a test of the slow motion (high speed 240 fps) mode of my new Panasonic FZ-200 camera. I got it for scientific evaluation of high speed events. Boy this HK190 heli vibrates more than I thought. Enjoy!

Panasonic FZ-200 Slow Motion RC Heli Hover Test (7 min 44 sec)
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Old Dec 07, 2014, 10:03 AM
The destroyer of blades
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United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2014
8 Posts
Another Newb question -

Syma F3 similar to the v911?
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Old Dec 07, 2014, 10:05 AM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Joined Aug 2011
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Yes, in many respect.
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 08:06 AM
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United States, MA, Plymouth
Joined Sep 2010
379 Posts
I picked up a couple of V911's Pros with the fisheye swashplate and paddlebar for my kids. Even without crashing *both* of the swashplates have separated.

Is this a common problem?

I have a bunch of original V911's with regular plastic swashes that have not had any issues.
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Old Dec 09, 2014, 06:47 PM
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Milano, Italy
Joined Nov 2009
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Originally Posted by ToddMcF2002 View Post
Even without crashing *both* of the swashplates have separated
Sorry for that. Could you please post some photos of the culprit just to clear any potential misleading? I am asking because several months ago, as soon as I brought home my newest purchase, I noticed that while the heli looked like a quite promising machine its swashplate was plagued by a similar drawback. I'd like to know where exactly your swash separated - mine just slid apart without the top actually separating from the base, just dragging the bearing along. Here's a photo I took before the cure showing maximum separation of bearing from outer casing:

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And a photo of V911 fisheye swashplate:

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The badly assembled swash I'm talking about is stock on both original Sanlianhuan 6050 «3D Stunts» aka «Buzzard» aka «Mach Speed» and (upgraded 2nd generation) Cheerson CX903 «Stunt King», BTW the one I have. This illustration from BangGood is highly detailed:

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I don't know whether both seemingly defective swashplates, FP w/double AR pin (sold as V911 upgrade) and standard 120° for CP helis (stock on SH 6050, also sold as V977 upgrade and despised by some due to being separation prone) do actually come from the same manufacturer.

On my new heli the swash bearing was held on by three tiny plastic tabs, heat seated and prone to break just by watching them. As a matter of fact the upper part already wobbled by a good half millimeter so I cut the three slivers flush with the swash's bottom, sanded the exposed plastic along with every accessible portion of the bearing's surface, prepped the parts with heptane and isopropyl alcohol then after priming with accelerator and a safety 5-min wait I pushed the upper half home and proceeded to glue its inner sleeve with thin CA. After curing and cleanup I scoured, prepped, and filled to the brim the remaining burrow with medium CA. That created a CA ring which I proceeded to dislodge by careful prying after observing how the resin shrank at the outer perimeter without actually welding to the plastic. The CA ring I peeled away gave me a hint about the faulty glue joint. Despite a prior cleaning with hard chemicals, the dislodged CA crust imbedded a thin, translucent black layer along with traces of oil and tiny plastic debris. The second prepping and CA joining-plus-buildup session went OK and brought back a bombproof plate.

My 6050's swash also suffered from faulty moulding in that some balls had flattened tops just as someone had filed the upper part of every ball flat. Here's how it one of them looked, not to mention pushrods detaching themselves:

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I suspect that the resin these swashes are made from (I guess both but let's see) isn't up to par with the hard, shiny ABS used by other manufacturers. At a distance it may look like some glass/carbon fiber loaded plastic, the kind sometimes referred to as technopolymers. I have ordered some fisheye swashplates for my FP micros but to date I still hadn't received them so I can't compare both kinds. Outside my CX903 swash shows a matt, smooth, slightly grainy texture and an apparently better shear strength than my mCP X swash. Truth is, not enough tech into this poor polymer... That's probably why CA resin can't really weld parts on without altering their chemistry. Bringing flattened balls back to round proved a tricky and frustrating job since each layer of medium CA seemed to cure slower than the former, all the while 'skinning' the original plastic below so that it took at least six or seven passes without accelerator (it only seemed to hasten erosion of underlying plastic while promoting brittleness of the above buildup) to achieve a solid, resilient prosthetic 'cap' that could either fully grip to the original material without chipping off and allow me fine reshaping / polishing for a perfect link fit. Whether those swashplates may come from a faulty batch I don't know. Nowadays the one on my heli does the job as expected - here's some pictures of the finished job:

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Old Dec 09, 2014, 11:13 PM
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United States, MA, Plymouth
Joined Sep 2010
379 Posts
I'll pull them out Thursday when I planned to swap back to the all plastic units and see if I can diagnose the issue. The "symptom" is that inner rotating portion of the swash pops up on the front edge such that the the heli wants to drift backwards and full forward elevator no longer results in forward flight.

I can easily pop the inner portion back to level but it simply pops out of its seat after a few seconds of flight.
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Old Dec 10, 2014, 03:04 AM
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Joined Oct 2014
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I received one of these WLtoys V911-pro V911-V2 4CH Helicopter BNF from Banggood today and I am expecting the v912 with TX to be at the post office for the same 27 th october order.

I ordered 5 extra batteries for the v911, but i was surprised to find the v911 came otherwise with no battery, no charger, no instructions and absolutely nothing other than the heli and the extra 5 pack of batteries. Just a heli in a polystyrene box.

I am guessing the v912 will have a much larger battery connection so i am going to have to make up a battery charger wiring for the v911.

Should the battery, charger and manual have been included?
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Old Dec 10, 2014, 04:24 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewedwardjudd View Post
I ordered 5 extra batteries for the v911, but i was surprised to find the v911 came otherwise with no battery, no charger, no instructions and absolutely nothing other than the heli and the extra 5 pack of batteries. Just a heli in a polystyrene box.
Should the battery, charger and manual have been included?
It depends which kit you ordered, sounds like the 'BNF' with extra lipo's the same as I ordered once. But I had the RTF before (with charger & TX).
If you have something like an Accucel-6 or other programmable charger, there are numerous adaptor boards out there that you can plug in and charge up to 5 lipo's at a time.
The V912 has a 2S (7.4V) lipo, connector is a JST. The V912 RTF comes with a charger, but for better control & results you would do well to invest in a programmable charger. Does not need to be expensive, the Accucel-6 retails around £26 ($36 ish)
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Old Dec 12, 2014, 01:50 PM
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United States, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined May 2012
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My micro-heli Blade Race

For any of you folks who have a thirst for aerodynamics, I have posed a sort of "brainteaser" over on the electric heli forum that you may find interesting:

See: Which micro-heli blades go faster: Coax or Fixed Pitch?




Which set of blades spin fastest in a steady hover - Red Green or Blue?

p.s. Sorry about my last video - Yes, it was pretty bad (way too long and boring).
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Old Dec 16, 2014, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWData View Post
It depends which kit you ordered, sounds like the 'BNF' with extra lipo's the same as I ordered once. But I had the RTF before (with charger & TX).
If you have something like an Accucel-6 or other programmable charger, there are numerous adaptor boards out there that you can plug in and charge up to 5 lipo's at a time.
The V912 has a 2S (7.4V) lipo, connector is a JST. The V912 RTF comes with a charger, but for better control & results you would do well to invest in a programmable charger. Does not need to be expensive, the Accucel-6 retails around £26 ($36 ish)
Thanks i did order the bnf with extra battery 5 pack - otherwise no batteries at all.

However i rigged something up for charging and today I got the v912 with the transmitter.

The 911 is an amazing thing indeed! It was fairly easy to fly it around the lounge in hover mode and i was doing so fairly robustly once i had consumed the 5 pack of batteries to the point i was striking something on the heli when going forwards and backwards without pressing the advanced button. All the hours i put in on the twin blade helis in preparation definately paid off. Most of the basic stuff was already mastered. Curiously though normal forwards flight seems awkward for me on day one.

This was a dream of mine since the 1980's to have a realistic electric helicopter in my lounge:-) They were a bit expensive then and then there were all the breakages to pay for so i never got one.

The v912 was much harder to get established on - again day one - but its ok now for crude hovering and landing/dumping to get out of trouble. Great stuff!
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