I have a film covered and do not know if its monokote or ultra coat 3D edge, and I want to paint it bottom dark top light in color, I have heard that you must scuff up the covering first to make the paint stick , what grit sand paper will do this unless not needed for electric type airplanes [no fuel?]

The plastic needs to be scuffed for paint adhesion, not because of the power source.

If it were me, I'd use OOOO# steel wool to scuff the plastic surface.

I have used Krylon Fusion (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/) on plastic covering, and didn't have to scuff it up. Sticks VERY well. I even had a place where I dented the covering pretty good. Some very light heat straitened it right out and the paint never knew it.

I've had real good luck with Rustoleum, fuel proof up to 15%. But dont paint where you will have something touching the paint like the cowl or places like that. It rubs the paint off. The cowl area is covered with ultracoat red about 2" past the cowl. The rest of the covering is light grey and (except for insignia's) the rest is rustoleum.
Edwin

Originally Posted by TomCrump

The plastic needs to be scuffed for paint adhesion, not because of the power source.

If it were me, I'd use OOOO# steel wool to scuff the plastic surface.

I have a lot of fine grite from car painting, what is close to the 000 brillo or steel wool, can I use a 1500 sand paper grit

Originally Posted by rcav8r2

I have used Krylon Fusion (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/) on plastic covering, and didn't have to scuff it up. Sticks VERY well. I even had a place where I dented the covering pretty good. Some very light heat straitened it right out and the paint never knew it.

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sound s good but this is the prp procedure , is this necessary?
When working with plastic

For old plastic, use an ammonia-based cleaner and wipe down to clean surface. If the plastic is new, wipe down with paint thinner for best results. Lightly sand glossy surface if previously painted and remove dust with a tack cloth. When dry, apply KrylonŽ Fusion for Plastic according to the directions on t

Originally Posted by edwin1

I've had real good luck with Rustoleum, fuel proof up to 15%. But dont paint where you will have something touching the paint like the cowl or places like that. It rubs the paint off. The cowl area is covered with ultracoat red about 2" past the cowl. The rest of the covering is light grey and (except for insignia's) the rest is rustoleum.
Edwin

did you mean luster coat spray paint or just rustoleum?

is that nice plane fully painted over the film covering

Originally Posted by rcav8r2

I have used Krylon Fusion (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/) on plastic covering, and didn't have to scuff it up. Sticks VERY well. I even had a place where I dented the covering pretty good. Some very light heat straitened it right out and the paint never knew it.

do you think I should follow the prep ? its very shiny gloss ultra cote film
When working with plastic

For old plastic, use an ammonia-based cleaner and wipe down to clean surface. If the plastic is new, wipe down with paint thinner for best results. Lightly sand glossy surface if previously painted and remove dust with a tack cloth. When dry, apply KrylonŽ Fusion for Plastic according to the directions on t

No lustercoat, I dont like that stuff. Its rattle can rustoleum from the hardware store. Yes, all that is painted on the ultracoat. The good thing is that when the mylar wrinkles, I can reshrink to tighten it up. But you must use something like a clean white T-shirt material and use your iron over that. Dont move the cloth, just the iron and it shrinks right up without hurting the paint. The rustoleum has stayed flexible for quite a while. DONT use a hot air gun, it will dry out.
Edwin

Originally Posted by Rhondas

do you think I should follow the prep ? its very shiny gloss ultra cote film
When working with plastic

I forget what I did, but I'm pretty sure all I did was wipe down with denatured alcohol, mask, and spray.

Oh yea, forgot to mention... Not sure if it is gas/glow proof (I'm guessing it is), but I know first hand it is spent electron proof

I have never seen a Krylon product that was even mildly gas/fuel resistant.

Rustoleum seems to hold up well. I use it frequently.

Anything higher than 400 grit should work for scuffing the plastic.

Originally Posted by TomCrump

I have never seen a Krylon product that was even mildly gas/fuel resistant.

Rustoleum seems to hold up well. I use it frequently.

Anything higher than 400 grit should work for scuffing the plastic.

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any thing 400grit or up 600 grit say its good to ruff up the monokote or any type film first before painting it?

Originally Posted by rcav8r2

I have used Krylon Fusion (http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/) on plastic covering, and didn't have to scuff it up. Sticks VERY well. I even had a place where I dented the covering pretty good. Some very light heat straitened it right out and the paint never knew it.

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so you say no need to scuff up with Krylon fusion painted on a monokote type covering heat shrink film, if its OK that's what im doing no scuffing ?

Originally Posted by Rhondas

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so you say no need to scuff up with Krylon fusion painted on a monokote type covering heat shrink film, if its OK that's what im doing no scuffing ?

Up to you I didn't scuff but I wasn't using Monocoto, I used Ultracote. SHOULD be the same, but.... Stuck GREAT. Scuffing certainly can't hurt, but I had small areas masked off, and I was afraid scuffing the masked areas would peel back or tear the tape.
Try it on a mocked up test piece first.

Originally Posted by rcav8r2

Up to you I didn't scuff but I wasn't using Monocoto, I used Ultracote. SHOULD be the same, but.... Stuck GREAT. Scuffing certainly can't hurt, but I had small areas masked off, and I was afraid scuffing the masked areas would peel back or tear the tape.
Try it on a mocked up test piece first.

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Thanks for the tip