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Old Nov 26, 2014, 06:17 PM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
11,558 Posts
Elevon Re-Hinging

As is common with 'squashed foam' hinging, which a lot of foam aircraft use, it is quite stiff to bend/pivot the control surfaces. Annoyingly stiff and hard to move really! On the FX-61 it seemed JUST passable to me, except that flexing them up and down a lot to 'soften' them just made the foam CRACK some amount already!! So my first idea was to add real hinges into the joints whilst they are still intact as they come.....
A bad idea really....
It works, but getting their axial alignment is hard to get right plus they were still quite stiff anyway! Plus you then have 'open slots' in the Elevon where the hinge dropped into. So I then sliced down the foam hinging to remove that anyway. It was all MUCH better then and worked 'properly'.

But for the second Elevon I just cut it off first and hinged that!
I would recommend that method! The hinging is more perfect and it all works with a near complete Elevon to Wing seal (no gap).

I don't like the stock 'Stick the control horn into the Elevon' idea at all ! How good could it end up being glued, for long term assured 100% reliability?
I used my own longer Control Horns that I fed through from the Elevon TOP, so that it could be glued into a shallow recess made on top, and also right through the slot in the Elevon. SUPER solid and will never fail for sure!

I used the stock pushrods, which felt fine in strength terms, but I used my favourite Alloy Clevises instead of the supplied plastic ones!

Unfortunately, I WAS going to put the Elevon Servos into the TOP of the Wing, but I forgot about that idea....
It would be easy to do cleanly, and I would recommend that change, seeing it is a 'belly lander'.

....
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
11,558 Posts
ESC mounting 'bay'

I cut out a bit of the inside centre Body foam, right ahead of the motor, so that the ESC can fit in 'sideways' there with some leeway for the wiring coming out of it. It also needed a block of foam across the centre area to build up a complete 'platform' across there, so it could sit on top of that and be supported fully.
Then some velcro onto the foam and ESC.
I will also strap it down with a cable tie later on.

I used the 60Amp HK YEP, even though I got a 40Amp version, seeing it probably will go over 40Amps in it "LOS Performance" configuration. But I will monitor that Power/Amps level and if I can move down to 40Amp I will change that later.

I soldered the ESC to motor wires 'permanently' - no connectors.

....
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 09:51 PM
Flying Zayin
Cathay Stray's Avatar
China, Guangdong, Guangzhou
Joined May 2012
968 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Senator315 View Post
You can get a spare FX-61 fuselage from HK, but not the FX-79
HobbyKing is a "synagogue that I don't go to". But living in the city where Phantoms are made offers some advantages. I buy my stuff in Chinese domestic market where things are sometimes very, very different.


Folding prop thing... It is somewhat of a "Nikon vs Canon" holy war.
I use folding props on all my wings and see no reason to migrate to 'normal' props. A rough landing with the prop stopped in vertical position can break off the paddle (who cares) or rip out the motor mount (much worse). Maybe it will never happen to me but why take extra risk?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
one blade 'folded back on itself'
There are stoppers that can completely eliminate this problem. I know they are there in the market but I never bought one as making a stopper only takes 20 minutes at most. Saw, dremel, drill, file.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
A good folding prop and hub is EXPENSIVE! $30 to $40 region! Versus a $2 fixed prop!
Errr.... some crazy prices... maybe I should start selling hubs They go for about 5-6 bucks on this side of the pond, plus roughly 3 dollars for plastic paddles.

Again, this is more a matter of faith than reason. Guys behind Zephyr wings claim they never ever used folders and never ever had a broken prop. I guess they supply a free guardian angel with every wing they sell!

Anyway. It's been a pleasure to be part of Phantom flying community (and maybe I will still come back some day). But as my Phantom is gone, I have to be gone too.
Wish you all happy times in the sky and easy landings no matter what props you use!
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Old Yesterday, 09:07 PM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
11,558 Posts
FPV - stage1

I am only setting up a 'simple' version of the plane for now, to do the initial flight testing this weekend. I wasn't even going to add any FPV stuff to it, but then I decided I may as well do some of it.....

It will still only run 5.8GHz for now, so I mounted a 600mW 32ch VTX outside of the hatch area, in the Centre Body portion of the plane (left side). The FX-61 has some good 'heavy' and deep foam areas here and there, so recessing electronics into that has a fair amount of options and leeway. For eg, Later I can mount the 433MHz LRS RC receiver in the opposite side of the Centre Body, to allow easier antenna fitting and save internal hatch room also.

I tested various camera positions, seeing I wanted to also have some view of the nose when flying and also of the wing itself when panning. This meant that almost right above the spar was the optimal place for that. So I modded the hatch to fit a panning servo into that, with the camera on top of that.
I used one of the tried and trusty HS1177 Sony HADII CCD mini cams. (25mm cube)

In next/later FX-61 setup stages I will also have a nose mounted Mobius Camera - inside the hatch front area where they have a camera 'hole' for that purpose - and I will have a video switcher to allow me to change the video source from that FPV panning camera to the Mobius.
Seeing it is a three way video switcher I was thinking to have a vertical camera also - mounted in the Centre Body base into the foam - to have the ability to look 'straight down' also.
These two extra cameras are more for long range flying benefits, so they are not really required until the LRS RC system is also installed.

I have to make up some tailored FPV wiring so that the hatch can be removed viably/easily, with the Camera and Servo leads going into the hatch area. AND keeping those running paths away from interfering items.

I also have to decide on how I will attach the hatch - it needs to be 100% reliably affixed, to carry the Camera/Servo weight and remain in place at all times!
It is a bit tricky because the hatch 'wants' to be seated by bringing it down vertically - it is not well suited to guiding the front end in/down first. But it could be modded to do that. So I am thinking over that... and it has to be worked out and done tonight!

....
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Old Yesterday, 11:31 PM
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leadpan's Avatar
United States, CA, Eastvale
Joined Sep 2007
302 Posts
To prevent the prop from breaking how do I land?
Do I cut the throttle and glide the last 100 feet?
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Old Today, 09:04 AM
Another one bites the Dust
United States, GA, Savannah
Joined Mar 2013
518 Posts
Folders may be more expensive to start. But after you break your mount and prop it won't be long till the folder is cheaper. .
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Old Today, 03:40 PM
got any foam to bash?
Tom Hunt's Avatar
Lake Grove,LI, NY
Joined Aug 2000
5,451 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadpan View Post
To prevent the prop from breaking how do I land?
Do I cut the throttle and glide the last 100 feet?
I find a windmilling prop is least often to break. one that stops almost true up-down breaks most often. unless you have a camera looking out the back when you land so you can see the prop, ya just have to take your chances.
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Old Today, 07:29 PM
Preserve our right to FPV !!!!
melsailsnorth's Avatar
United States, CA, Chico
Joined Dec 2010
1,029 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Hunt View Post
I find a windmilling prop is least often to break. one that stops almost true up-down breaks most often. unless you have a camera looking out the back when you land so you can see the prop, ya just have to take your chances.

I'd have to respectfully disagree. Even using a hard break on my belly landers has never resulted in a broken prop but I've broken dozens and dozens with the centrical force that they can carry into a "power off" landing while windmilling with no break. If your prop is stopped and in the way on a belly landing, it just gets pushed to the side. I used to try and line it up on landing but I don't even bother with that any longer. I have a crazy amount (in the hundreds) of landings with my Phantom using the hard break and a standard APC-E prop and I've yet to break a single prop or my Phantom's original plastic mount. Maybe I've been incredibly lucky.... but when I consider the number of broken props on the same airframe prior to programing the break into my ESC, luck seems to be much less of a probability. I DO think that luck is really the only reason why that silly plastic motor mount has lasted this long... I've been expecting it to go since the first week I got my Phantom
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Last edited by melsailsnorth; Today at 07:37 PM.
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