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Old Sep 21, 2012, 01:02 PM
New Beeeeee
RUBNorris's Avatar
United States, CA, Sacramento
Joined Apr 2011
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I have......but i Over proped on 4s. Too much power...
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:35 PM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Sep 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cox8pilot View Post
I think the XL can carry 2x4s5000 but I'm not sure you can fit them inside.
Thanks your numbers are pretty close to what I was shooting for, just checked the batteries I had checked out.. there about 1.25" thick. Is that too much?

Dont seem to be much info other than wingspan size on the DR:XL
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 12:48 AM
AMA 937634
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Jan 2010
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I bought one of the DR-XL's back when it was in its beta stage and I can tell you that on that model (not sure if the wing was changed or not) 1.25" is about the complete thickness of the center section.

I occasionally fly with a couple of 3s 4500's positioned out away from the center section somewhat and only dug out about 3/4" deep of the foam. I could go a bit deeper and pull out all of the foam and replace it with coroplast on the bottom but I'd only gain 1/4" maybe.

-Mike
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:00 PM
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United States, UT, Springville
Joined Jun 2012
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So I'm building another reaper and I want this one to be as slick as possible, I'm going for better gliding. I won a reaper at this falls SWARM and so I can really beat up my first wing and have a nice wing as well. I have noticed that the elevons are a tad thicker than the tail edge of the wing. This is the case on my first reaper as well. The bottom of the elevons hang down further than the rest of the wing. Has anyone tried cutting the elevons maybe 1/4 inch shorter to where they would be the same thickness and create less drag? I would cut the elevons in a way that they would end up being 1/4" shorter and have less deflecting power. The other option which seems more difficult would be to sand the bottom of the elevons to match the thickness of the wing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:53 PM
wheeeeee!
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United States, UT, Provo
Joined Oct 2011
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Whoa, you must be going for crazy precise on this build! I couldn't say for sure, but my thought is that it really wouldn't make that much difference, especially compared to other bigger things you can do to ensure good glide, like ultralight build, well-dialed-in CG, proper reflex...

Also, I'm a fan of folding props, if you're going for good glide. There are ways to do it with almost no extra weight, and I definitely noticed improved glide on my Reaper with the folding props. It's worth it to pay a little more for the carbon fiber ones, too. You have to try pretty hard to break a cf folding prop blade.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 12:35 AM
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United States, UT, Springville
Joined Jun 2012
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Do the folding props need a special prop nut or adapter to fit on the motor? I will be using a 3530 turnigy ntm prop drive motor 1400kv. I may just leave the elevons where they are at, I'm afraid I might screw it up. I might see if Lee will sell me another set of elevons to practice on before I ruin the set that came with it. I mentioned wanting to do something like this to Lee and he said I wouldn't be able to tell much of a difference.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:33 AM
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Aug 2008
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Night flying Reper Rabbit

'm putting LED lights on my Reaper being built primarily as a rabbit for our club.

I'm considering running one LED strip down the top of each fiberglass rod - top and bottom, then one or two more at each wingtip. White on top, red on bottom.

I've created the channels for the fiberglass with a Dremmel router and intend on routering in a wider channel on top of the rod so the lights sit flush with the top of the wing.

Has anyone done lights this way or care to offer advice/photos of their lighted bird?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:41 AM
Planes in flames,,,
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Gravity Sucks
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I prefer to keep the lights away from the rod so that on any impact you don't have the lights twisting against the rods. You'd be suprised how much the foam twists and deforms on impact. also if you ever have to reglue or repair a spar you won't have the lights in the way.

You might also think about putting white on the bottom. It's cool to watch how much the white lights actually illuminate the ground underneath the plane. Another thing that I have done on my last few night wings is to put the leds facing the foam. You may be surprised how much light is actually transmitted to the foam. It's an awesome effect and pictures do not generally do it justice.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 01:36 PM
wheeeeee!
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United States, UT, Provo
Joined Oct 2011
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I always do led's facing into the foam, now. My first wing with lights had them facing out, and after a couple minutes, it starts messing with your eyes.

Besides, the Ninja's right, the lights make a whole section of foam glow quite well. Looks great
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 04:27 PM
Chess club geek with wings
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Aug 2008
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OK guys, I'll take your advice....So the LED's are routered into the foam...Where do I put them? I have enough white (or red) to run the complete lenght of the wing; that's two, 1meter strips of lights.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 05:34 PM
Planes in flames,,,
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Yeah, here's the thing. For it all to work out for you, you've gotta figure out what works for you in the air. Night flying can be disorientating, but the patterns and colors can help if you find something your brain can sort out..
So, on the bottom, maybe about an inch back from the spar?. I looked for old pictures but can't find them.

My last night flying Reaper was done with red strip under one wing and a green strip under the other, then blue on top running front to back on either side just outside of the servos.

The only wing I currently have setup to fly at night is setup with one strip of white facing up through the foam. Colored tape (red and green) on the bottom to help with orientaion and the top is lit just with white that shows up through the foam- I might be able to find a pic of that one

Top



Bottom



Pictures don't do it justice- vids might be a little better

Night Flying with the Super Moon (0 min 42 sec)


Tom's Assassin attacking the Super Moon (0 min 30 sec)
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:08 PM
Lee
PERFECT LANDING !!!
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USA, UT, Orem
Joined Jul 2004
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A night plane has to be visible from the front and the back, top and the bottom. I have a couple of planes that are not bright from the back and so they can disappear when flying away from me. I am a good enough flyer to compensate by keeping the plane turning so the top and bottom are always visible but it is important to look at the plane from all angle before flying. The other factor is the plane needs to be visible from the front when it is landing. Landing is the one time you don't want your plane to disappear.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 04:22 PM
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United States, CO, Denver
Joined Sep 2012
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Thanks CrashTestHobby, Ordered DRXL on Friday and unboxed on Monday... screw those china shops with there $50 shipping and month long wait.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 08:44 AM
Chess club geek with wings
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetpackninja View Post
Yeah, here's the thing. For it all to work out for you, you've gotta figure out what works for you in the air. Night flying can be disorientating, but the patterns and colors can help if you find something your brain can sort out..
Ninja you were right on the money; I flew a friends Assassin last night; it's got blue lights on the top and white on the bottom - they are mounted to the surface of the plane and shine outward.

3mns into the flight the blue lights were making my eyes go so buggy that I had to keep it high enough to only view the white lights - even then my vision was blurry at the end of the flight.

I'm close to finishing the light install on my Reaper (buried into the foam) , I'll post some pics when it's complete.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 08:41 PM
Chess club geek with wings
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Aug 2008
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Here are a couple of photos of my light install on the Reaper, one light was cut into the foam in front of the spar and faces forward. The second set is behind the spar and faces to the rear. Cant wait to get it in the air!
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