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Old Nov 16, 2015, 03:59 PM
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Build Log
Miss New Orleans from Hobby People

Well I have looked and looked but I cannot seem to find any build log on the Miss New Orleans sold by Hobby People. I have been eye balling this kit for a while and decide to pull the trigger and start the build over the holidays. The float flying bug has hit me pretty good so always looking for a new plane to fly.

There are bit of sea plane kits out there, many ARFs so my options were limited. I will be pleasantly surprised if this bird flies anything like the tidewater.

I decided to do this build log for a few reasons but mainly to assist others who decided to build as there are no plans for this plane beside the tail feathers. There a few pages of color pictures which look like they may help but no where near what I would call a manual. The CG is not even called out.

I do have some building experience so I am not too concerned. I plane to segregate the parts as follows:

Wing
Tail feathers
Engine mount
Fuselage

This way I will know I am "done" when I run out of parts.


I do like to size of the plane. Specs here.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...plane-kit.html

Has anyone build one? Any tips you can share?
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Old Nov 22, 2015, 06:27 PM
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So I have settled in at mother in law's place for the Thanksgiving week. Opened the box an was pleasantly surprised to see how well it was packed. Lots of wood in there. Lase cutting looks to be pretty good with some decent wood selection. The hardware is "okay" essentially some push rod connectors and control horns. The do provide to large sheets of plastic for the windows so i wont fret about only having one shot at it.

The instructions or "reference guide" as they state it is pretty funny. The words are cracking me up by its enough to interpret what they are trying to say.

Love the line on the front page "if you can't find the wood in our kit please cut it by yourself" This has got to be an omen!

On the plus side, spoke to a hobby people owner how is pretty straight up and said she flys great and its almost a snap together build. So still excited.

I'll be posting throughout the week.
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Old Nov 22, 2015, 06:51 PM
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Well hurdle number one. Poor laser cutting on bass wood parts. Did not cut all the way through. Looks like I will be spending some quality time with my hobby knife.
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Old Nov 23, 2015, 04:51 PM
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Well got all the laser cut parts out. Strange QC on this kit as some of the parts you could literally blow out with your mouth and others required some cutting.
On to the fuse. The fuselage sides are comprised of three pieces. I aligned them using the formers then glues together. Then locate the 8x6mm strips. There are more of these than any other type of strips. Dry fit them using the formers. You will find there is an angle at the nose which you will need to align the stringer with. I just cut the stringer to make the angle.
At former 9 you will have the forward and aft sttringers meet. I chose to have the rear former connect with the front. It fit and figured it would add strength to the step.
You must do both sides of the fuse before adhering the formers.
Take your time aligning the wing sadle reinforcement piece with former 9 and 8.
On a plus side everything seems to align very well.
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Old Nov 23, 2015, 11:14 PM
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If it flies - I want one!
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A good start!
The short stringer under the wing seat might be a rail to carry the servo tray?
Keep stickin' sticks!
PeteM
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Old Nov 24, 2015, 11:32 AM
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Thanks Pete, however there is a servo tray set a little forward. Maybe for strength.

So i got the fuse together and I have a lesson learned to share.

I had glued all the formers to one side of the fuse and made sure all the formers were perpendicular. Well come to find out when joining the two side the back formers don't align because the angle changes when joined.
Alittle heavy handed tugging got them to finally fit however here is my advise.

Go a head and set up the center joiners to be perpendicular. Then add the other side of the fuse. Once glued, remove the fuse from your building board and afix the forward and rear joiners. Having the fuse free of the board allows you to align them better.
To join the rear i shaved the 8x6 stringers until the 8x6 end cap fit. Expoxy and clamp.

Rubber bands are very helpful for holding the fuse in position.

Today i will wrap up the fuse and start the wings.
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Old Nov 24, 2015, 07:18 PM
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wings

I spent the better part of the morning trying to figure out how these wings would come together. At first I had dry fitted the spars and the ribs and all seemed to be good. Then I decided to figure out how the ailerons would assemble. Boy what a mess that was. After going through all the parts i had come to the conclusion that the ailerons are designed to be set up at a 45 degree angle then applied with some tiangle balsa stock.
It was real frustrating trying to figure this out.
The stock supplied calls for you to cut your own triangle. I have decided to install standard aileron basla sheets from the hobby store. Too much hasle with this set up.

So here is how i approached wing assemble.
1) drew a straight line on building board
2) pinned down bottom spar. I had to use the 10x8 sticks because i did not have 4 total 8x6 sticks. No big deal just opened up the rib slot to fit.
3) glued spar former to stick
4) glued ribs on. I used a 2mm piece on the TE of the ribs to level them to the spar gap meant for sheeting later
5)since i left my angle tool at home i use a box of smokes to assist with rib alignment with spar.
6) i could not locate an adequate cap for the back of the dihedral slot. So i used then stock that was suppose to be for the ailerons. Worked perfectly as the servo lead holes aligned.
7) cafefully aligned the top spar stick with the dihedral brace then glued the top spar on.
8) i then glued the TE on for where the ailerons will go. For what its worth there are three ribs that are not cut to accept ailerons but the aileron stock and the pictures clealy indicate they are longer. So you would need to cut one of the three long ribs to accept the aileron length. Another reason for me to go another route.
For the TE I used stock the left 2mm on the top and bottom for sheeting.
9) for TE sheeting I used what i pressume was part of the aileron stock.

Just winging it now!
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Old Nov 25, 2015, 04:23 PM
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spar support

Because i was so engaged in trying to figure out the wing assembly, I totally forgot thr the main spars are light balsa sticks! Not acceptable for me. They would surely crack under load on a fall from the garage.
I decided to add a carbon fiber rod 3/4 the length of the wing and i also close up the back of the spar assembly using a webbing technique. It essentially creates a box. Nice and solid now.

I have decided to hold of on sheeting until i get the left side done. There will be some challenges closing up the gap on the motor pod. More on that later.

Also i added the leading edge. The pictures show them sheeting first. I prefer to add the LE the sheet.

Pick up the perfect size aileron surface today so happy i dont have to deal with that mess any more!
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Old Dec 09, 2015, 03:44 PM
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Progress report

Well, I walked away from the plane to work on some other projects and now I am back at it.

Tail feathers:

So the Tail feathers are pretty straigh forward however the cross braces they supply are a joke. There was no way I was going to use them. I think simply apply monokote would rip them up. Went to the hobby store and pick up some much beefier balsa wood.

The Elevator was no issue at all. However the Rudder was more of a challenge. These two parts do have plans that you build over. The issue was the top and base of the rudder called for balsa that was not the 10X10 stock. It was more like 16X10. I ended up joining a 10X10 and 10X6 balsa stringers together to get the width required.

TIP! you will notice a curved line running through the rudder on the plans. this is for the elevator control rod. The exit point for this rod is the top of the rudder. So be sure to drill the holes in the stringers prior to gluing them in. Will make life a lot easier.

Speaking of control rods, I also decided to go with 2-56 control rods as they are still flexible but 3 times thicker than the supplied rods. Could you use the stock? Maybe, but I felt it was worth the $6.00 to have piece of mind. Also, the 2-56 (pictured) fit in the predrilled holes in the fuse just fine.
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Old Dec 09, 2015, 04:10 PM
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Motor Mount

on to the motor mount. This is pretty straight forward however I decided on a few mods.

The ESC and Battery wires need to run through the mount from the fuse to the battery and motor. The channel they outlined lead me to believe the ESC and battery wires would come out the front pointed towards the motor. This just seemed sloppy to me, especially because I plan to add a cowl and build a nacelle.

So I created another channel for the battery wire to come up from the battery tray. (Pictured)

I also used heavy gauge wire (what I had) this forced me to widdle the channel to be wider. No big issue just needed a sharp xacto knife. If you use smaller wires you may not need to do this.

TIP: If you solder the connections prior to gluing things together, run the battery wire through the battery tray PRIOR to soldering your battery connector.

Tips on gluing the engine mount together.
1) do NOT glue the channel formers in. these pieces are only there to assist with alignment. They will be removed once you have glued the 3 of four layers to create your wire channel.
2) Be sure to insert the spare joiner after initial gluing of a layer and prior to clamping as this will help ensure an aligned fit.
3) Its advised to use triangle stock to help support the battery tray and engine mount. (pictured)
4) I did use medium weight fiberglass on the firewall. Again, just piece of mind.
5) In addition to glue and triangle stock, I drilled two screws through the firewall to the mount.
6) use blind nuts for your motor mounts

All and all, it was fairly simple. and the mount is solid as a rock!

I did notice there was some built in up thrust on the motor mount. Which (based on my research) should be a good thing for this type of plane. I can always add washers later if I am not happy.
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Old Feb 01, 2016, 03:47 PM
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Progress

So it has been a busy month, picked up a Hansa Brandenberger from Maxford and the AMA show and been busy with her. But boy, what a great plane to fly!

Some progress has been made between projects. First I went about putting the sponsons together and decided to fit the inside of the haul with foam. came out pretty nice and should help with flotation should any water get in there. More than likely not as I plane to glass then spray them.
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Old Feb 01, 2016, 03:55 PM
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finishing and joining the wing.

So I went back and forth about whether or not to join the wings prior to covering. Because the sheeting needed to be done I went a head and joined them now.

A few things needed to be done (at least in my mind) prior to joining.

1) Sanded the leading edges
2) decided to cap the wing tips with a sheet of balsa. This would assist with strength and, more importanlty, help with covering. You will need a hand sander as the provided wig tip will need lots of sanding to have it paralell with the wing ribs. Once that was done I used triangle stock to fill in the gap aft of the aileron area. Then simply used some light balsa, capped then sanded the edges.
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Old Feb 01, 2016, 04:12 PM
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joining and sheeting the wings

Next up was joining the wings to the power pod. this was pretty straight forward as I had done some prior dry fitting.
WORD of CAUTION. I had just applied epoxy and fitted the wings when I had noticed I could twist the wings some what freely. this was something I failed to notice when dry fitting. So now I had to literally hold the wings together for 15 mins for the epoxy to set up. not ideal and I think they may not be perfectly matched incidence. So try to set up a clamping system and dry fit it with clamps first prior to joining with epoxy.

Once epoxy was dry I spent a few moments determining how to go about the sheeting.

There is a large gap from rib to rib in the center section just behind the power pod. I ended up taking the rib strengthener pieces provided in the kit and used them to make additional pieces to fill the gap. I used a few of the thick balsa scrap pieces from the kit. It worked out pretty well as the rib strengthener piece was just the right size.

I then used the left over aileron stock to build up the trailing edge. You want to be sure to do this as you do not want just the sheeting to be your tailing edge.

I also had some fiber glass sheets that I picked up at the AMA show to strengthen the trailing edge where the wing bolts will be drilled. very happy with the results. thin CA just bods this fiber glass to the balsa

The actual sheeting of the center section was very straight forward. Just trail place the sheet cut to fit, trial place again, adjust, then when happy glue to wing,

So the really weird thing is one side of the sheeting is longer than the other. leading me to believe there is something wrong. I counted the ribs and they are equal on both sides. It got late so I did not do measurements. I will do that tonight. very odd.
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Old Feb 19, 2016, 03:58 PM
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Wing issue - Solved

So come to find out that the right wing was indeed 1/2" longer than the left.
I am sure this happened because I did not affix the inner wing ribs because I didn't want to break them prior to sheeting.
The fix was pretty easy. I simply cut the tip of the right wing then removed 1/2 inch from the out part of the right wing then reattached the wing tip. Both sides are now equal in length.
Whew!
HINT: be careful to measure the length of each wing prior to sheeting.
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Old Feb 19, 2016, 04:01 PM
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Building up the wing tips

So there really is no mention on how to install the wing tips. Using the wing tip former didn't seem to be enough and felt it would cause problems when covering so I decided to cap the wing tip.

First you need to double up on the wing formers. there are 4 supplied so glue 2 together.
Affix to the wing as described. See pictures for step by step instructions
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