HELLO all I have a wireing problem with a stock HL pershing Thank 1.16th.
I pulled the top off to do some rewireing and the leads for the front lights came off from board . So can some one show me or tell me whear the blue yellow green wires go in what order so I dont blow my front lights. out .

MY gun did not work with the soft BBs that is why I pulled the top off and the wireing for the gun was also pull off so now I have no lights and the gun is not fireing . Other then that it runs nice.,
I pick it up from a buddy of mind. So what advice can I get . Can some one print up a wireing diagram so I can go by and rewire what I need to do. Thank you . DON

OF If nothing elest can someone put on some pictues of that wireing set up . FROM the lights to the board. I think I have the old R 13 or 14 board. . I set it up and when I turn on the switch for off and on the front lights come on ok with me then when I hit forward they go dull then when I hit reverce they brighten up. SO I think I have something wrong.. Thanks DON

question what voltage do you use for the small LED lights for the Large 16thscale tanks . That is my next problem can any one help for I burn out the lighs when I shorted out the circute board out.
I am not of useing LEDs and now trying to learn about them as well . So what advice can you give to me and I run the 2 C lipo and the 33 to 45 hundred NMHD batterys. thanks DON

Don, look here these diagrams may be of help for figuring out your LED hook ups.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790102

LED's don't care about voltage, it's current they care about. Same LED can be run off from say 3 volts to 12 volts, you just change the resistor value for you voltage.

Here's a good read for learning about LED's and how to pick the correct resistor for your system.
http://www.rc-cam.com/led_info.htm

Glacier Girl nice to meet ya
Thank you for the information on the LED lights this is all new to me. ok I have a feeling your playing with an HL tank or something related to this. I was wondering can you tell me this ? I have the HL pershing Tank 1/16 th scale runs sweet . I am useing a 4500 NMD battery. ALso may use a 20 C lipo 2 cell. Can you tell me witch lights to use and if I have to have a resistor can you tell me witch one and whear do I install it. So far we have tryed a 2.7 and 3.7 LEDs with out an resistor blow everytime .
I have a radio shack trying to help me on this one. Can you give me any ideas. or what to look for I want to go back to yellow or white.
For some reason I have found color lights are alittle cheaper and I have no idea over clear or white.
. BY the way I have one more I know you went to that new speed controll how do you like and how do you have yours set up. FOR I am planing on looking into it. LIKE I Say Tanks are all new to me but I am not new to the RC world. Thank you agian. DON THE Rustbucket

Don, nope I run 1/6th scale not 1/16th.

Is your Ni cad pack a 7.2 or 8.4 volt pack?

Give me a list of part numbers/ colors of the LED's you bought. I can then figure out what resistors you need.

There are two ways to wire up LED's. In series, or with resistors. I don't care for series wiring them, as they then act like the old Christmas tree lights. If one burns out, they all go out. Wiring with resistors you can have one burn out and the rest keep on going.

The resistor can be connected anywhere on the wires. I usually solder the resistor to the power lead, either end it doesn't matter.

Oh, just thought of something. LED's can only be hooked up one way. They have a positive leg and a negative leg. Hooked up backwards they don't work. Won't hurt em they just won't work.

Easy to tell which leg is which. Normally one leg is longer then the other. The longer of the two is the positive. Also if you look close at the base of the LED, you'll see there is a flat on one side. The leg closest to the flat is the negative side.

As for clear over white, depends on what you want the LED to do. Think of white as a regular old light bulb, omnidirectional light. Clear while it does have some 360 degree shine to it, is more like a headlight on a car, a beam of light. And even that dependent on the LED can be changed as to how much it does so. And there are tricks even yo can do with a clear to make it look like a white.



As for the esc, my system is a different animal from what is used in the HenLong tanks.
You have the 13/14 or 18 boards that run everything including sound and smoke.

On mine it's all stand alone, I have a separate receiver, dual esc, sound board, smoke system, cannon, lights, video, and laser. All components that I tied together using the receiver to control.


I know, I know, way too much info overload.

HELLO GG . Thanks for the information on the LED lights. I for got i scrap a pershing that was use for parts from that shop and I got the rest of what was left of it . I Forgot it had a set of lights. So I check them out and they work. So I use them. I use that wireing chart that I think you put on the board of how to wire the pershing tanks. NOW Everything works and thank you so much for your information and help your one kind lady!!!!!!!!
. and I have printed up everything for future information I know it will help later . I see your like me for I will help others when I can . FOR I do have 20 years of back grown in RC scale ships and also RC truck racing Electirc but my wife became one the very few RC truck racers but she had to work for the respect and every whear we go she is known by her truck colors.. HER Trucks are painted in rain bow colors . She may be the only women racer in the Portland Area. She has been racing as long as I have been into RC .
Thanks again DON THE Rustbucket

O by the way my batterys are NMHD 7.2 and I use a 20 C - 2 cell lipo soft pack . NOT sure on the lipo still testing that one for I have the older R13 board not the 14 or 18. I have the A B C switch not the christals Thank you so much again DON

Originally Posted by Rustbucket

O by the way my batterys are NMHD 7.2 and I use a 20 C - 2 cell lipo soft pack . NOT sure on the lipo still testing that one for I have the older R13 board not the 14 or 18. I have the A B C switch not the christals Thank you so much again DON

Don, don't know how much experience you have with lipos.
Your 2 S pack is 8.4 volts fully charged, just make sure your board can handle that. Also get yourself a low voltage alarm, if you run the lipo down too far, it will be damaged if not done for.



p.s. Glacier Girl is a P-38 Lightning.

HELLO GG . That now makes me wonder for when I was runing my lipo the tank would run for a wile then it would act like the lipo cut off. WHEN I was useing my 3300 NMHD I did not have any problems .
So I do wonder what on what your saying about the lipos. I wonder if that battery is to much for the board . FOR as I understand it I am useing the R 13 and 14 not the R 18 that has the christals and the band on the radio is 27 . I would like to up date my tanks to 2.4 speckrun for I have the DX 6 with dsm and have about 3 extra recivers . JUST not sure on how to that yet but I will learn as time goes on..
I know if you use a lipo on some of the older speed controls that is to much for the speed controll and it will get hot. We all most learn that one the hard way a few years ago.

I was told by one of our club Nordpac members it would work . I have a feeling he was thinking I was up dated.
BUT THEN again the one I talk to I found out later he has the up dated board so some of what he says and dose make sence to me. I may just run my 33 and 4500 with the older board untill I up date myself.

MY wife and I use lipos in our trucks when were racing and we have no problems but then again all of our racing rigs are also brushless. 13.5 to down to 17,5 depending on the class were in.
So this is a compeatly a different world on what you can and cant use in tanks.
.
I do know about the small checkers I did not have one with me that day. So now I pack one with me all of the time when I have the tank out with the lipo
. I have not been invole with a meet since last month.

IN Dec on the 7 we have another meet that will tell me alot as well and I will have the checker with me. OK with me runing the older boards they would not have a lipo cut off I would not think? but then like I say I dont know maybe you could help on that one.?

So I am learning all of the time about these tanks when ever I work on one..
I was able to pick up a damage bull dog today that I had to compeatly install a new shooter for it was shatterd so and redid it . lucky for me I had some parts from a couple of tanks that I scrap out a wile back.
Thank you again for your kindness and all of the help .
I am now learning from you just like others help me when I first started ship building and later was able to help others with what I did and learn though my years . NOW I am taking what I had learn and apply it to Tank builds. .

I know in time I will be able to help others as time goes on Thank you agian .!!

NOW your talking my kind of air craft I like the P 38s and the old HELL cats one of the first carrier base planes and good fighters . THEN like everyone elest I love the war birds but that is one part of the RC world I cant get into eye sight problems if they get to far away for me . I use to have the same problems with my 6ft DDG 84 the USS Bluckley Burk destroyer.

I would get into all kinds problems if I was flying more then I would want to think about.
BUT I do enjoy being at some of meets.ONE of our members that is helping me is a flyer and he flys warbirds himself not sure witch ones but I will fine out later . ONE I know of is the P 51 not sure on scale . I will amit when the P 51 came out as a park flyer I was tempted but I thought about my eye sight and walk away from it but i sure like it .
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DON your Rustbucket.

Yeah Don, I seriously doubt the old boards had a lipo cut off. There were designed around Ni-hm and NiCads which can be run pretty low voltage wise, where 3.0 volts per cell on a lipo, or 6 volts on your two cell, is the max you ever want to run them down to.

On my planes I use the 80% rule, I never run below 80 percent of the pack's capability.
Easy way to figure. Take your battery capacity and divide by the amp draw of your motors.
Take that figure and multiply by .8. Take that figure and multiply by 60. The answer is total run time at full throttle.

Like this for example. 5000 mAh pack, and your motors draw 45 amps.

So 5000 divided by 45000 = .1111111111

Now multiply that by .8 .111111111 x .08 = .08888888889

Multiply that by 60 .0888888889 x 60 = 5.333333334

So if you had a 5000 mAh pack, and your motors draw 45 amps, you could safely run 5.3 minutes at full throttle and only use 80% of your packs capabilities.
Your lipo packs will love you long time like that.

And it means you can run longer if you are just crawling around, sneaking up on the bad guys instead of high tailing it out of the area.

And I give kudos to you boat jockeys. That's where I found how to build my smoke unit using resistors instead of coils of wire to cook up the smoke.

YES I will agree on the boards. I may hold off on the lipo untill I up date my Pershing .
Thank you for information on how to figure out runing time. When I run the ships I use jell cells not lipos. May go to lipos someday but then I have to change everything over to lipo cut offs and up date some of my speed controls . BUT Right now I will leave the ships the way they are for now.

I just sent you some pictures of the fleet that took me over 20 years of building . So can you share any of your air craft I dont mind seeing some of your air fleet . Just wondering if you can. ? maybe your tanks it all sounds neat to me . DON

O ya there are some intresting storys behind some of those . THE ones in the case's has been done for others . I use to build for other groups. I have at least 4 LSTs landing crafts through out the US in cases . ONE in alanta Gerorga County court . LST 1169 and the carrier is in the Pearsion Air musume . THE Picture of me is at the Navy/ marine base here in Portland that I did for our PT boat group. NOT braging just sharing . DON

Geez Don, if you do the same work on tanks we're all in trouble. Those are some beautiful ships/boats.

You can see some of my birds here.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...emberID=115665

WOW I wish I had the room that you do. I only have a shop about 9 by 15 feet down in the basment but it works for me . I have to keep moving things around to get the room.

I realy like your airforce but I dont see a hell cat . I was thinking I would see one of those. BUT Your air fleet looks grate!!
I do realy like that P 38 and 51 . those do I have a week spot and like everyone elest the corsair .. ON Jet I realy like alot is the PF 9 Panther. I may see one for real soon for i am planing on going to one of the air musumes sometime this month that is on the Oregon coast. THE Tillamook air musume. Go to a search engine they have a good sight. TO be honest If my eyes would work with me in long distance I would realy be in trouble for When I start collecting I have to have to most of it . That has got me in trouble many times. FOR I am a general modeler do every thing except figures. Cant realy get into those .

As for tanks I have just got startd the Pershing was my realy my first atemp at redoing one. THE Retriver is my second custom build. BUT I am not done with that one yet.
I did a 16th scale tank last years but only did a standard army green but i sold it and a year later I pick up the one I have now. Dont have any plans as of yet to let any of the tanks go.
PM will be sent to ya . Look for it. Thanks DOn