Originally Posted by CPMBOY

yup..its big alright...I bought it to cater for future upgrades like motor and batt. Ok..the settings are:
1. brake type: Off/soft/hard
2. timming mode: low/mid/hi
3. cut off mode: soft cut/cut off
4. start mode: fast/soft/very soft
5. gov mode: OFF/gov-low/gov-hi
6. Li-XX cells: auto/2 cells/3cells/XX cells
7. cut off voltage: low/mid/hi

I'll have a stab at an incomplete answer (relating to my EZ*):

Brake - depends upon how you want it to operate. I like to have the brake on so that it doesnt start whizzing in a power off dive.
Timing - I'll let others answer that! I think I just set mine to 'med' on the logic that it will only be a max of one step out..
Cut off - soft means that as battery voltage runs down, less is sent to motor but full 5V is still sent to radio gear. The effect is that the moggle gets more and more asthmatic. Hard means that when the LVC is hit, the motor cuts dead until you shut the throttle and open it again. I prefer the latter as it was what I was used to 15yrs ago.
Start mode - depends upon how you want it to operate. I prefer instant response so I've set mine to fast; I think that slow & very slow are more suitable to flying airbeating eggwhisks (heeliochoppers I think they call them).
Gov mode - not sure my HobbyWing Guard has that feature....
Li-XXX cells - I'd suggest reading what is on the side of your battery!
Cut off voltage - Aaaaah! The one that starts heated debates!! I'd suggest setting it at the highest option, but you may well still find that you finish the flight with less than the recommended 20% charge remaining. The knowledgable officianados correctly state that the best way to consistently remain above the 20% 'danger area' is by always timing your flights. Personally, I come down before or as soon as the motor cuts first time (another reason for the hard cut off mode)...but then I'm sure my Lipos won't last as long as other people's.....

HTH

guys I am thinking about purchasing this Bixler ARF plane but I am curious about the fuselage is it one piece glued or two pieces ?since i usually change the servos every 25 flight , how can i change/replace the servos since it inside the fuselage (if it come in one piece glued) and what type glue they use to mount the servos ?Can anyone advise how to remove the existing stock servos so i can change/replace
thank in advance

Mine also came as ARTF. But I soon realised that the hardware was crap. As the fuselage was glued, I just cut out a panel in the side where the servos were housed. When I changed the servos, I glued the panels back. I used 'hot glue' to mount them.
I will add that all the original hardware has been changed except for the hatch magnets.

Originally Posted by Flypoppa

Mine also came as ARTF. But I soon realised that the hardware was crap. As the fuselage was glued, I just cut out a panel in the side where the servos were housed. When I changed the servos, I glued the panels back. I used 'hot glue' to mount them.
I will add that all the original hardware has been changed except for the hatch magnets.

so the fuselage is it one piece glued that is not good. change my mind i will get the KIT instead ARF . but then the KIT is BK

Ordered this and a parkjet yesterday Maybe i have it on the post office in 3 weeks. Next time i will order from Deutschland.

Originally Posted by presa1200

..............I usually change the servos every 25 flight ......

Why not just buy decent servos in the first place.........???!!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by Colonel Blink

Why not just buy decent servos in the first place.........???!!!!!!!!!!

yup that what i always do , but still it my habit to change/replace servo after every 25 flight . But the problem now ARF fuselage is one piece glued the and servos already mounted inside the fuselage and need to cut out part of the fuselage to change / replace it

Originally Posted by presa1200

yup that what i always do , but still it my habit to change/replace servo after every 25 flight . But the problem now ARF fuselage is one piece glued the and servos already mounted inside the fuselage and need to cut out part of the fuselage to change / replace it

Can I have your old ones? Tough Blink, I asked first.

In this video:

GoPro HD - FPV Bixler to 3019m! Amazing view! (32 min 34 sec)

The bixler is 3019 meter over the ground but what setup do this guy use? Motor batteri etc.

Originally Posted by presa1200

yup that what i always do , but still it my habit to change/replace servo after every 25 flight (

Perhaps now is the time to fly and fly and realise that your habit is costing you a lot of money unnecessarily.......? Unless it's the stock Bixler servos, in which case change them first!

And Flypoppa may have got there first, but I'm prettier........

Originally Posted by Colonel Blink

Perhaps now is the time to fly and fly and realise that your habit is costing you a lot of money unnecessarily.......? Unless it's the stock Bixler servos, in which case change them first!

And Flypoppa may have got there first, but I'm prettier........

no i don't feel like that since i have 10 plane to fly , i can only fly 2 plane once a week ,1 year is 365 day that about 52 week see it take a long way to reach 25 flight ,only my favorite plane reach 25 flight , i can't wait the kit to restock,
I can't resist any more I guess just buy the ARF

i hope this one don't make you sleepy

Hobbyking Bixler & Gopro Hero HD Cypress (11 min 19 sec)

westwood's channel www.youtube.com/user/9westwood9/

Originally Posted by Flypoppa

Mine also came as ARTF. But I soon realised that the hardware was crap. As the fuselage was glued, I just cut out a panel in the side where the servos were housed. When I changed the servos, I glued the panels back. I used 'hot glue' to mount them.
I will add that all the original hardware has been changed except for the hatch magnets.

Mine came as an ARF - PRODUCT ID: HK-SS-ARF from HK. The fuselage was 2 pieces. If you want to regularly replace servos it would be easy to make them "slide-out" before gluing the fuselage halves together.

Mine has been flown hard with all stock gear except the parts that do not come with it - ESC, battery, Rx. The servos look like unbadged HTX900s.

Modifications -

The elevator hinge has been reworked, a single wheel undercarriage fitted and the prop changed to 6x4. Two inlet and two outlet airscoops have been fitted, the outlet ones over the holes where the servo arms stick out. This airflow is for cooling the ESC. Scoop covers made from plastic teaspoons.

The rudder and elevator horns need to be fitted and I've had my elevator horn come off twice (and landed OK!!!). It is now wired on as well as glued, wire through the foam and a backing plate from scrap plastic (plastic milk bottle). I suspect better hinges has now put less stress on the horn attachment.

The wings have 3M hooks fitted under for a rubber band and a wire to retain them but allow removal if required. When a hook bends open due to a really bad landing it is replaced by pouring hot water over the old one to remove and gluing on a new one.

One steel piece for the canopy retaining has just popped and hotglue didn't seem to be good enough to retain it. Probably need to roughen it up a bit and try again.

The fuselage halves were glued with Gorilla glue, as it was such a long glue line, rather than hotglue. Next time (if there was a next time) I'd probably use hotglue.

The weight washers were removed using hot water.

Originally Posted by Mac50L

Mine came as an ARF - PRODUCT ID: HK-SS-ARF from HK. The fuselage was 2 pieces. If you want to regularly replace servos it would be easy to make them "slide-out" before gluing the fuselage halves together.

Mine has been flown hard with all stock gear except the parts that do not come with it - ESC, battery, Rx. The servos look like unbadged HTX900s.

Modifications -

The elevator hinge has been reworked, a single wheel undercarriage fitted and the prop changed to 6x4. Two inlet and two outlet airscoops have been fitted, the outlet ones over the holes where the servo arms stick out. This airflow is for cooling the ESC. Scoop covers made from plastic teaspoons.

The rudder and elevator horns need to be fitted and I've had my elevator horn come off twice (and landed OK!!!). It is now wired on as well as glued, wire through the foam and a backing plate from scrap plastic (plastic milk bottle). I suspect better hinges has now put less stress on the horn attachment.

The wings have 3M hooks fitted under for a rubber band and a wire to retain them but allow removal if required. When a hook bends open due to a really bad landing it is replaced by pouring hot water over the old one to remove and gluing on a new one.

One steel piece for the canopy retaining has just popped and hotglue didn't seem to be good enough to retain it. Probably need to roughen it up a bit and try again.

The fuselage halves were glued with Gorilla glue, as it was such a long glue line, rather than hotglue. Next time (if there was a next time) I'd probably use hotglue.

The weight washers were removed using hot water.

i already order PRODUCT ID: HK-SS-ARF before read your post , hope i it came 2 pieces fuselage like yours , it's should be nice if you can post pics of your plane

We ware practising chasing with our R/C Planes when my friend decided that he wasn't close enough:

Bixler MID-AIR Collision with skywalker

Be sure to subscribe to us, we are going to make allot more of these videos if you like them!

Greetings Nonamerc

(English is not my first language)