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Old Jan 31, 2016, 07:40 PM
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Maiden LOS flight today with my fully complete Blackout Mini H. Betaflight 2.3.4 on the TBS Powercube and couldn't be happier with the results.

Betaflight 2 3 4 default PIDS Maiden ACRO (1 min 51 sec)
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Old Feb 01, 2016, 07:22 PM
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30a Blackout ARF Kits

We have added the Littlebee 30a to our ESC range.

http://www.icktrading.com/products/f...tlebee-30a-esc

Now all the ARF kits have the option of adding these or a Variety of other ESC options.

http://www.icktrading.com/collections/blackout-kits

Thanks to everyone for your support.

Loving the clips
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Old Feb 04, 2016, 08:43 AM
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Drone Racing Belgium did a demonstration race at Droneport (Sint-Truiden, Belgium)
Thanks to Sep Berghmans to create a great track for us to fly!

Drone Racing Belgium - Droneport Demonstration Race (3 min 17 sec)
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Old Feb 05, 2016, 04:45 AM
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T-Motor F40

Blackout Mini H Quad Simplified ARF kit builder,
Blackout ARF's simplified

T Motor F40's have arrived!
T-MOTOR F-SERIES FPV RACING MOTORS F40 2 PER SET

Testing the F40 on a Blackout Mini Quad in this clip with 5s!!

BLACKOUT test avec Lipo 5S Esc Kiss racer 24A T-Motor F40 2300kv (7 min 1 sec)
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Last edited by DRPROP; Feb 05, 2016 at 03:36 PM. Reason: Add Images
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 08:46 AM
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Trying to turn off the LEDs on my blackout. Is it supposed to be done by scoring a line between the LED pads to break the connection?

I've been carving away between the pads but they refuse to turn off. The are still dimly lit no matter how much I take off. Am I going about this the right way?
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 10:31 AM
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Blackout PDB LED's Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippCen View Post
There is a trace between the two +ve LED pads.

If you want to disable the LEDs you cut the trace.
Its not the pads you want to scratch, its the material between the pads you want to remove.
Though if you're thorough enough what you're doing will work (they dimmed your almost there )

I found that back in the thread a bit, there's bound to be more...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/searc...y=led%20switch
its like an encyclopedia of Blackout.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3245

I also read that you can solder pins on and just bridge them manually for a simple LED switch.

Hope this helps
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRPROP View Post
Its not the pads you want to scratch, its the material between the pads you want to remove.
Though if you're thorough enough what you're doing will work (they dimmed your almost there )

I found that back in the thread a bit, there's bound to be more...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/searc...y=led%20switch
its like an encyclopedia of Blackout.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3245

I also read that you can solder pins on and just bridge them manually for a simple LED switch.

Hope this helps
Yup, thats what I've done. Scratched between the pads, but I'm still getting some connection. I guess I'll just have to keep grinding away.

Some of my led's are broken and I thought it might be causing problems.
(flying in snowy conditions). My quads been falling out of the sky a lot lately and just trying to eliminate all possible causes.
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 04:01 PM
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I thought you only needed to bridge the pads marked LED on the PDB?
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnBoardWithBlade View Post
I thought you only needed to bridge the pads marked LED on the PDB?
I'm using a V3 because I started mine before the V4's were ready,
They shouldn't be any different.
There was no bridging required to get the LEDS running.

I Had power to my LEDs as soon as i applied volts to the power pads.

The 2 pads marked LED Switch are bridged by default. (V+)
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 06:26 PM
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My quads been falling out of the sky a lot lately and just trying to eliminate all possible causes.[/QUOTE]

Mine was falling out of the sky lately and it turned out to be a hairline crack in the pdb just in front of number 3 arm which was losing contact briefly and the quad couldn't recover in time. I scratched it back and soldered it to confirm that was the problem then got a new pdb and problem solved
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRPROP View Post
I'm using a V3 because I started mine before the V4's were ready,
They shouldn't be any different.
There was no bridging required to get the LEDS running.

I Had power to my LEDs as soon as i applied volts to the power pads.

The 2 pads marked LED Switch are bridged by default. (V+)
Mine's a V2.0, and the LED's are working correctly.

My understanding was if you drag a drop of solder between the 2 LED pads (near left rear of the PDB), then that would turn them OFF.

Lower right in this pic:
http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/085...g?v=1450773649
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Old Feb 06, 2016, 11:11 PM
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LED Switch Blackout Mini H Quad

LED Switch pads are interconnected out the packet.

They are also common to the (V+)

When i applied 12v the LEDS came on without any soldering.

Its a V4 this time.

If you wish to add an led controller, The switch is soldered across the pads.

You break the bridge and achieve open circuit before adding the switch.
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Old Feb 08, 2016, 05:14 AM
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Crash Compilation!

OK so I've finally crashed enough to make a video about it. These crashes are 90% Blackouts, with all the serious hits taken by the Mini-H. Yeah I broke the odd arm (or two), but only from the hardest crashes.

This frame is still tough after all this time! .

The Price of Progress ▪ Crash Compilation (3 min 32 sec)
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Old Feb 08, 2016, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bj1 View Post
My quads been falling out of the sky a lot lately and just trying to eliminate all possible causes.

This is why I stopped using PDB's a while back. Got tired of intermittent issues and having to replace them.
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Old Feb 11, 2016, 08:29 AM
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Rebuilt the Blackout with 5" arms. I have 3 sets of 5x4x3 and 4 1800 4s 65c batteries on order. Should be a good time.



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