Originally Posted by Andy2No

You're welcome, Don.

I gave a link for the undercarriage set in the next post, but I fell for the trick where rcgroups gives a link to just one post, out of context, when I added the link to that picture..

The plastic parts were out of this sort of set, from HobbyKing, but I bought mine from giantshark.co.uk:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...teerable_.html



The nose wheel was one of the two bigger ones out of that set. The mains wheels are the 75mm shock absorbing ones from giantshark.co.uk, but I think they're probably sold in a few different places, maybe HobbyKing too. All that stuff comes form China, wherever you buy it:

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/shock-ab...-p-402825.html



This is the (ugly) white axle block I used:

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/front-wh...-p-402843.html



- that's the strongest part though.

It wasn't hard to do. It just took some filing, with a needle file, to extend one of the holes in the block to line up with part of the new plastic undercarriage piece.

If you did the same, you'd have to go with smaller mains wheels, or bend the legs so it sits lower, because you've lost a bit of length off the front strut. I put a piece of thin brass tubing over the thread on mine (just forced it on by twisting), and part of the block clamps onto it.

I did a search on HK and these look like they match the ones from GiantShark. I keyed on the 32mm. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mm_5sets_.html
I'll add them to the mix. Thanks,
Don

Yep. Shipping is always a factor. On some sites (like Giantshark.co.uk) I can keep lots of things in my shopping cart ready for the next order, then decide which ones to actually buy. On HobbyKings site that doesn't work because they keep emptying it. There's the wish lists, but it's not the same.

I've used a few of that size wheels. There are three on my Parkzone Trojan, which works well. I had a pair on my 1.3m Ultrafly Decathlon until recently, but decided to switch it to FunCub wheels. I'll be putting some on my PA Ultimate, when I finally get round to building it, and probably my Seagull PC-9 (also still in kit form).

3" is a good size for a grass field, for anything but a very small plane. I like the 5" FunCub ones too, but there aren't many medium sized planes that can get away with wheels that big.

I'm now wondering if I used the 32mm block or the 40mm one. They do seem to be the same ones though... I'll go and measure it.

It seems mine are the "40mm" blocks http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mm_5sets_.html, though I don't know why they call them that. I bought both sizes, and it's the bigger one, but they're about 25mm by 36mm. The measurements on HobbyKings site don't make sense - they seem to have them the wrong way round.

It might be safest to buy one set of each, to make sure They're cheap enough anyway, and they have other uses. I used two to make a radio controlled launch trolley for a plane with no undercarriage (for the steerable axles). I never got the plane in the air with it, but it was quite fun driving it around.

Originally Posted by Andy2No

It seems mine are the "40mm" blocks http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mm_5sets_.html, though I don't know why they call them that. I bought both sizes, and it's the bigger one, but they're about 25mm by 36mm. The measurements on HobbyKings site don't make sense - they seem to have them the wrong way round.

It might be safest to buy one set of each, to make sure They're cheap enough anyway, and they have other uses. I used two to make a radio controlled launch trolley for a plane with no undercarriage (for the steerable axles). I never got the plane in the air with it, but it was quite fun driving it around.

I got both 32 and 40mm front wheel steering mounts. It was only $2.41 for the extra set. It looks like the plane's front strut is attached to the new steering arm but can't see the how the new trailing wheel is attached in your photo but I'm sure it'll be obvious once the parts come together. I want to lock them together so the steering is usable. The field I want to fly has a 7' wide concrete runway so unless I takeoff in the parking lot, I've got to keep it on that 7' wide strip.
Don

On mine, I just screwed the steering arm to the strut, using the set screw that came with it, so mine is free pivoting on the strut. I figured that will take the strain off the rudder servo, but I might still change it.

I can see two ways to fix the block to the strut so it still has steering from the rudder servo - either just put a couple of blobs of epoxy on it, or drill the part where the strut goes through it and tap it to take another set screw. Come to think of it you could do both - start with the set screw and epoxy or CA it once you're sure you won't need to change it.

Incidentally, there's a knack to using taps and dies. You don't just keep turning, because it will clog and snap something - usually the bolt you're putting a thread on, or the tap, if you're tapping a thread in a hole. Instead you give it a turn, then back off a quarter turn or more, wiggle it backwards and forwards a bit to clear out the swarf, then do the next turn. If it feels stiff, stop and go back a bit, don't just keep twisting.

The part of the leg that holds the wheel has two bars that connect the two pieces. I just filed the holes in one side of the steering arm block so they line up. I might have had to enlarge both, I forget. The main thing was the distance between them wasn't quite right, so I filed one into an oval.

sorry, repeat post

Originally Posted by Andy2No

On mine, I just screwed the steering arm to the strut, using the set screw that came with it, so mine is free pivoting on the strut. I figured that will take the strain off the rudder servo, but I might still change it.

I can see two ways to fix the block to the strut so it still has steering from the rudder servo - either just put a couple of blobs of epoxy on it, or drill the part where the strut goes through it and tap it to take another set screw. Come to think of it you could do both - start with the set screw and epoxy or CA it once you're sure you won't need to change it.

Incidentally, there's a knack to using taps and dies. You don't just keep turning, because it will clog and snap something - usually the bolt you're putting a thread on, or the tap, if you're tapping a thread in a hole. Instead you give it a turn, then back off a quarter turn or more, wiggle it backwards and forwards a bit to clear out the swarf, then do the next turn. If it feels stiff, stop and go back a bit, don't just keep twisting.

The part of the leg that holds the wheel has two bars that connect the two pieces. I just filed the holes in one side of the steering arm block so they line up. I might have had to enlarge both, I forget. The main thing was the distance between them wasn't quite right, so I filed one into an oval.

No telling when the shipment will get here from HK but I'll figure something out to make it work. The few times I've flown the plane, I enjoyed it very much. It seems to have a lot of power to pull it out of tight situations. Now that I have the CG right, it will be much better. But I won't be doing T&Gs until I'm sure the thing will stay on. I just want to get some stick time first. Probably post some pics after Christmas.

We got our Corvalis today, some nice person sent it to us as a gift.
The plane, RxR and a 6 channel Tactic radio. We had two already.

It will be a bit before we put it together. Other things on the work
bench and he got a clock to restore for a customer, work first.
I hate "that" word!

Let you know how it goes....

Attempted to fly my Corvalis this evening, but it was simply too windy for my likings. Actually a "fair weather" pilot as I, like most everyone else on here, has a fair amount invested in their hobby to see the wind turn a good day into an expensive one.

My plane has the stripes removed on the wheel pants to more correctly match Cessna's factory color scheme and obviously a three-bladed Dynam prop. I did give the prop a coat of flat black to get rid of the Dynam logos on each blade and painted the tips white, but got the angle or "slash" going in the wrong direction. Lastly, I've replaced the cheap-o wheel/tires with some rubber "low bounce".

Much better this morning. Gray skies so as to not have to use sunglasses and make the plane easier to see, NO wind, and lotsa time. Flew thru 3 batteries almost non-stop and most likely gonna go back late this afternoon for another round.

This thread has almost died it seems.

I just got some Corvalis time in this evening. Started off with a bit more wind than I'm comfortable with, but the plane handled it easy enough. WIth the added 3 bladed prop, this makes for a very attractive looking plane. Even looks fast on the ground and in the air...it is!

Another feature that I like about this plane is that I can actually see the nose strut "working" whereas on my 182...it doesn't seem to move at all. Flying around at dusk with the "strobes" flashing is just too kewl.

Originally Posted by mds47588

This thread has almost died it seems.

I just got some Corvalis time in this evening. Started off with a bit more wind than I'm comfortable with, but the plane handled it easy enough. WIth the added 3 bladed prop, this makes for a very attractive looking plane. Even looks fast on the ground and in the air...it is!

Another feature that I like about this plane is that I can actually see the nose strut "working" whereas on my 182...it doesn't seem to move at all. Flying around at dusk with the "strobes" flashing is just too kewl.

At first glance I thought that was a 100% plane! Then
I saw the planes behind it.....

I have had something of a renaissance with my Corvalis. After months of hanging on the wall due to a cracked nose wheel pant, I dusted it off and took it out last Friday. A bit on the windy side and there was plenty of turbulence, but the flying was fun, nonetheless. I went out again this morning under gray skies and a few sprinkles. While the Corvalis does have lights, they are fairly anemic in full darkness, especially from the rear. They really do come in handy though, while flying under a low overcast. Keeping an eye on that white color scheme is tough, as it fades away quickly on outbound leg. Once turned around though, the nav and landing lights are quite visible and a real help when trying to stay oriented. I think I might add a light on the rudder, a couple of white, rearward facing strobes on the wing tips, and red ones on the fuselage bottom and on top of the rudder. Common Sense RC makes a nice lighting kit that will take care of the wing and taillight, while the flashing red strobes will come from Flytron. Those sexy lime green and black graphics found on the Corvalis TTX will also brighten up things too.

The nose wheel replacement is due any day!

Originally Posted by mds47588

This thread has almost died it seems ...

I think it's cuz this plane is such a pussycat. Pretty well made; excellent (in my own experience) customer service backing the product.....not much to go wrong or to complain about. People just take the plane out & have a pleasant experience with it, & put it away for the next time.

For me, I've not had many opps to fly lately anyway -- Ma Nature hain't been overly cooperative, shall we say. Thing is, I've acquired a few new aircraft lately & have been using what little time I've had on breaking those in. ('Breaking' hopefully not becoming the key word here!) Even now I'm trying to master a new quad-copter. (Kinda like herding cats!) (With no 'mastery' in sight! *LOL* )