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Old Dec 31, 2012, 11:27 PM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
I picked up a Hobbywing Pentium 40A SC for my copter project but just could not get it to work. It would setup and bind just like the Turnigy Basic but would not operate properly. Most of the time when I gave it throttle it would just bump, but sometimes it would throttle up (I had to punch it) and I could keep it going up to full throttle until I throttled all the way down at which time it would reset. From there I sometimes could get it to go again, but most of the time I would have to rebind the whole system.

The only thing that pops into my head is that it has a "switching" BEC. Could this be causing an issue between the PCB and the ESC? Unplgging the red wire had no effect. I want to rule out incompatibility before I return it for a replacement.

Thanks in advance if you, or anyone else, have any ideas.
I'd agree entirely with BThirsk: it seems to be either a 2s problem, or the thing is faulty.
That's (one of) the reasons I've stuck with the Turnigy plush 6A or 18As for all my 2s (and Align ESC for 3s) - never failed to initialise or work correctly.
The 18A seems fine for my 450W motor, never runs more than 'warm' - run at 2s of course. Worth a try on yours?
Cheers
John

PS: As BThirsk has pointed out, you don't need the BEC in your ESC at all, in your usage. Best to leave it d/c for tests, anyway. It's also possible (though highly unlikely) that the motor is faulty.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:29 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
828 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
I'd agree entirely with BThirsk: it seems to be either a 2s problem, or the thing is faulty.
That's (one of) the reasons I've stuck with the Turnigy plush 6A or 18As for all my 2s (and Align ESC for 3s) - never failed to initialise or work correctly.
The 18A seems fine for my 450W motor, never runs more than 'warm' - run at 2s of course. Worth a try on yours?
Cheers
John

PS: As BThirsk has pointed out, you don't need the BEC in your ESC at all, in your usage. Best to leave it d/c for tests, anyway. It's also possible (though highly unlikely) that the motor is faulty.
Exactly why I ordered another Turnigy. My Prk 370 inrunner reacted the same and the Hobbymate 3800 works great with the Turnigy from another F45. As soon as the other Turnigy (and main gear) shows up I'll be golden. I will ask for exchange of the Hobbywing and save it for another project.

BTW, the one-way-bearing sleeve out of the main gear is a perfect 6mm OD/5mm ID. I am going to work on another rotor head that will slide all the way down the 450 main shaft.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:11 AM
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The Netherlands, ZH, Rotterdam
Joined Aug 2012
66 Posts
Happy new year to all

I wish you many flights with the F in


translation: I wish you many flights with the F f45 in 2013
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 06:23 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
BTW, the one-way-bearing sleeve out of the main gear is a perfect 6mm OD/5mm ID. I am going to work on another rotor head that will slide all the way down the 450 main shaft.
Nice find!
I've still got the main shaft from the F39 to get drilled out by a machine shop: should be ideal, done right. Going to build a second F39/450 as a test bed/6 chan Rx, keep one to fly with the (modded) F39 PCB.
When you get yours full house, just try lifting it up at around 2/3s along the wings, see the dihedral at rest. Makes you wonder how on earth they can fly at all lol.
Best for 2013
John
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 06:32 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyor View Post
I wish you many flights with the F in


translation: I wish you many flights with the F f45 in 2013

Same to you, Flyor! - and TIL they count in Binary in the Netherlands .
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 07:34 AM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Nice find!
I've still got the main shaft from the F39 to get drilled out by a machine shop: should be ideal, done right. Going to build a second F39/450 as a test bed/6 chan Rx, keep one to fly with the (modded) F39 PCB.
When you get yours full house, just try lifting it up at around 2/3s along the wings, see the dihedral at rest. Makes you wonder how on earth they can fly at all lol.
Best for 2013
John
How great minds think alike! I just put another 450 kit on my ebay favorites to buy and use with different radio setups and the belt drive. Since I have the F445 finished I kind of hate to take it apart. I am going to try to stick with the Walkera 4ch setups with the built in gyro first.

LOL, I had to look up what "dihedral" meant and then tried it. I have also seen this as the F45 is in flight. It's just weird.

May all of you and and all of yours have a super 2013.

Steve
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 08:15 AM
John
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Aug 2012
542 Posts
Whizgig -
Sorry, I got sidetracked!
The frame-
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
the motor -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11884
The pinion -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15259. Pretty crummy, but will do the job. If you grind a flat 1/3 the way through the shaft, anyway.
The ESC -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4312
The landing gear -
Either the standard HK 450 (comes with the kit, very flimsy) covered with Clark pipe lagging tube OR Align HK 500 (Zeejays or Wattsuprc)
Finally, the antirotation bracket is off a particular Align 450 (has a wide flat base, good for epoxy gluing to frame) - I'll identify it later.
Good luck with your build! - And cheers for 2013
John.

PS - the Antirotation -
http://www.wattsuprc.com.au/goods.php?id=952
(they also make a cheaper plastic version that has worked fine so far, but this looks better.. Just dremel a slot (or drill a hole) for the shaft and bearing, and glue it to the frame and bearing support. Hasn't shifted yet!).
I've left the shaft adaptor till last: could probably spare one, if you get stuck (or follow Arrowshooter's suggestion): but what you need is a 5 to 6 mm shaft adaptor, about 4cm long.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 10:48 AM
Brent 黑雁
BThirsk's Avatar
Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by arrowshooter View Post
How great minds think alike! I just put another 450 kit on my ebay favorites to buy and use with different radio setups and the belt drive. Since I have the F445 finished I kind of hate to take it apart. I am going to try to stick with the Walkera 4ch setups with the built in gyro first.

LOL, I had to look up what "dihedral" meant and then tried it. I have also seen this as the F45 is in flight. It's just weird.

May all of you and and all of yours have a super 2013.

Steve
Dihedral in the blades will help to keep the Heli more stable and upright similar to dropping a marble in a round bowl. It always moves to the centre.
The biggest drawback is this same effect also reduces the knife effect that stiffer blades create which also increase agility and response.
That was why when I first got the MJX and noticed this, I shimmed the blades to try and reduce this and the handeling was improved. When I went to the extreme blades which are much stiffer, the dihedral effect was reduced even more, again, increasing response, but this also came with a little reduction in stability.
If you notice the newer fixed pitch, flybarless mini helis coming out, they usually have stiffer, symmetrical blades which spin faster and have almost no dihedral effect. They are very responsive, but do not self stabalize to the same degree as helis with a blade shaped like the MJX.
Most important, higher head speed reduces this effect drastically.
Those are my findings from my observations.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 12:03 PM
Fly Fast, Fly Hard, Fly Fun
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Canada, BC
Joined Apr 2012
1,475 Posts
Having followed Brent's advice and moved to upgraded stiff blades it makes a huge difference. Performance is faster and certainly less stable, but as I get more experience this is an attractive change. The trade off is a good one at this point.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 02:26 PM
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Joined Dec 2010
217 Posts
I have a few Q's for F45 owners:

1) What is the main blade made of?

2) What is the maximum wind speed it can handle outdoor?

3) Does it need its own receiver battery?
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:15 PM
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United States, VT, Windsor
Joined Apr 2012
354 Posts
Made a few mods to my project put 1811 motor and 3 blade prop and dropped back to 7.4 lipo's The weight of my bird is about 1/2 the original MJX . The neat thing if one finds an old HeliMax Axe CP is the MJX head fits right on and no modding except the anti rotation bracket the main shaft is 6mm . Parts are still readily available. If I was to do it again I would put a smaller main motor in. The old Esky Belt canopy looks sharp on it and the Belt motor worked for the main. The weather here has been cold and +12 MPH winds so all I can do is hover it in my den.

Ray
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:46 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpc4 View Post
Made a few mods to my project put 1811 motor and 3 blade prop and dropped back to 7.4 lipo's The weight of my bird is about 1/2 the original MJX . The neat thing if one finds an old HeliMax Axe CP is the MJX head fits right on and no modding except the anti rotation bracket the main shaft is 6mm . Parts are still readily available. If I was to do it again I would put a smaller main motor in. The old Esky Belt canopy looks sharp on it and the Belt motor worked for the main. The weather here has been cold and +12 MPH winds so all I can do is hover it in my den.

Ray
I noticed the gyro you are using. I assume it works OK?
I am using the HK401 AVS gyro and it works fine for my except in cold weather. After about 3 to 4 minutes, the cold makes it go nuts. Does cold effect yours as well.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 05:49 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gettinglucky View Post
I have a few Q's for F45 owners:

1) What is the main blade made of?

2) What is the maximum wind speed it can handle outdoor?

3) Does it need its own receiver battery?
Main blades is flexible plastic.
As far as speed, check posts near beginning of this thread. Markona did a test with a GPS installed and I believe the results are posted.
No, it uses the main battery for the RX.
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 07:04 PM
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United States, CA, Modesto
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpc4 View Post
Made a few mods to my project put 1811 motor and 3 blade prop and dropped back to 7.4 lipo's The weight of my bird is about 1/2 the original MJX . The neat thing if one finds an old HeliMax Axe CP is the MJX head fits right on and no modding except the anti rotation bracket the main shaft is 6mm . Parts are still readily available. If I was to do it again I would put a smaller main motor in. The old Esky Belt canopy looks sharp on it and the Belt motor worked for the main. The weather here has been cold and +12 MPH winds so all I can do is hover it in my den.

Ray
I like it. Going that route would definately be easier that the 450 size heli due to the size of the main shaft.

Question, Is the screw holding the main gear in about to come out?
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Old Jan 01, 2013, 08:12 PM
Eugene
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Australia, VIC, Delacombe
Joined Oct 2006
918 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldOz View Post
Whizgig -
Sorry, I got sidetracked!
The frame-
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
the motor -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11884
The pinion -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15259. Pretty crummy, but will do the job. If you grind a flat 1/3 the way through the shaft, anyway.
The ESC -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4312
The landing gear -
Either the standard HK 450 (comes with the kit, very flimsy) covered with Clark pipe lagging tube OR Align HK 500 (Zeejays or Wattsuprc)
Finally, the antirotation bracket is off a particular Align 450 (has a wide flat base, good for epoxy gluing to frame) - I'll identify it later.
Good luck with your build! - And cheers for 2013
John.

PS - the Antirotation -
http://www.wattsuprc.com.au/goods.php?id=952
(they also make a cheaper plastic version that has worked fine so far, but this looks better.. Just dremel a slot (or drill a hole) for the shaft and bearing, and glue it to the frame and bearing support. Hasn't shifted yet!).
I've left the shaft adaptor till last: could probably spare one, if you get stuck (or follow Arrowshooter's suggestion): but what you need is a 5 to 6 mm shaft adaptor, about 4cm long.
Thanks John,
I will get on to it straight away and start stripping the bird down now ready for the parts.
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