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Old Dec 07, 2012, 04:33 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
Spyro37's Avatar
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by jhroof View Post
Another new Blade heli I will probably have to buy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Yv-t8hFouuU
So it was a 550X

Published on Dec 6, 2012
Blade 550 X Pro Series (5 min 49 sec)
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 04:50 PM
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United States, CA, Menlo Park
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Comparison: T-Rex 450SE, mCP X, 130X, Nano CP X

RTF/BNF experience

The T-Rex 450 is a kit so it doesn’t count. My mCP X needed it’s blades balanced to reduce vibration, and grommets installed to suppress cyclic shivering. The tail of my 130X disassembled itself on the 6th flight; I've spent ~$100 and tens of hours tuning and tweaking it to get it to work right. My Nano CP X flew properly out of the box.

Durability

Helicopter durability has changed so much since I started flying 6 years ago. In the bad old days the tiniest mistake was punished with broken blades, bent feathering shafts, bent main shafts, stripped main gears... I kept a log when I flew my Align T-Rex 450 SE. Over the course of 300 flights I crashed, on average, once every 50 flights. That’s good for me. Despite that, I spent as many hours repairing the helicopter as I did flying it!

Fast forward to the mCP X. For the year that I flew it, I crashed, perhaps, once every 10 flights. Despite the more frequent crashing, my only repair was I replaced the tail motor when it burned out. One crash put a wrinkle in the canopy, but I never lost or broke a part.

Then came the 130X. The 130X lies somewhere between the T-Rex 450 and the mCP X. Compared to the T-Rex 450 SE, the 130X lets me get away with murder. After most of my crashes I can pick it up and fly it again. But occasionally I break something and need to repair it. Furthermore, the tail of my 130X has been quite problematic. It's needed repairs even in the absence of crashing.

Then came the Nano CP X. I’ve seen some amazing videos of “durability testing”. The pilot seems to crash 20 times per battery pack. The heli survives crash after crash onto concrete.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=330

There's no way would my 130X would take that abuse.

Flying characteristics

Of course durability isn't everything; how well a helicopter flies is at least as important. I was pretty unhappy with how the mCP X flew. It lacked power. It couldn't do tic-tocs at all. On hard collective transitions it would bog, the tail would blow out, and the heli would pirouette madly causing me to crash. The tail blow-outs were the main reason why I crashed so much more frequently with the mCP X compared with the T-Rex 450 SE.

The 130X flies great. It has much more power than the mCP X, although not as much as the T-Rex 450. The 130X can do tic-tocs more or less continuously. The tail (once I got it sorted out) doesn't blow out ever. The 130X flies worlds better than the mCP X. I even prefer my 130X over my T-Rex 450; the 130X feels more predictable to me.

The Nano CP X is a huge improvement over the mCP X. The tail holds much better. I’ve seen the tail to misbehave only once when I was really thrashing it, and even then it only swung out 90 degrees. However, the Nano doesn’t have the power of the 130X. Despite what I’ve seen in the Horizon videos, I can’t make my Nano tic-toc. When I try, the Nano bogs and becomes very unstable.

Wind

The heavier the helicopter, the better it handles wind. So if we rank the helis in order of their ability to tolerate wind we get (from least capable to most capable): Nano CP X, mCP X, 130X, T-Rex 450SE. Where I live, the wind is often still in the morning. I only fly when there’s no wind. But your environment may be different.

Conclusion

The 130X is my favorite heli. I sold my mCP X. My T-Rex 450 sits on the shelf. I plan to sell my Nano CP X.

But the Nano CP X is still a very impressive heli. It’s a great helicopter for beginners. There’s a lot that the Nano does very well: hovering upright / inverted; fast forward flight; circuits forward / backward / upright / inverted; funnels of all types. You can learn a lot from a Nano. It may not tic-toc like a 130X. But you won’t have to deal with the tweaking and tuning that my 130X has required either. And the Nano is a lot more durable.

If I had to learn how to fly all over again today, I would still start with a coax. Then I would spend time on the simulator. Then I would fly the Nano CP X. If the Nano CP X was available 6 years ago, I would have saved $1000’s of dollars.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 05:24 PM
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United States, CA, Palos Verdes Peninsula
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Nice rundown. You should upgrade your Nano to brushless instead of selling it. I installed the "wild kit" from Astro designs, used a stock MCPX landing skids (not an exact fit, but close enough) and soldered MCPX battery connectors on. I am using Glacier 250 mah batteries from EP Buddy (2 bucks a piece) with this setup, and it has transformed the Nano into a beast - a lot more power with little to no bogging and 5 minute flights. It's still a very light bird and can take a crash very well. My only problem is it's too powerful to fly in the bedroom for my skill level. It's great outside and low to the ground - it's my driveway heli. The 130X is my favorite outside flyer anywhere else.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 06:12 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
So here's a stupid question. In pursuit of trying to fix me tail blowout issues... is there a wrong way to install the tail blades? It seems like my tail blades are pitched heavily with no rudder input. When I give full input they seem to line up to neutral. Is this correct or not?
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 06:35 PM
Rocket Programmer
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United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
25,448 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
So here's a stupid question. In pursuit of trying to fix me tail blowout issues... is there a wrong way to install the tail blades? It seems like my tail blades are pitched heavily with no rudder input. When I give full input they seem to line up to neutral. Is this correct or not?
Sounds like the servo has slipped to a new position. When the servo is centered, the blades should be centered also.
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:12 PM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasmine2501 View Post
Sounds like the servo has slipped to a new position. When the servo is centered, the blades should be centered also.
That's what I thought. Thanks. I think this is the root of my issue. The tail servo died on me mid flight back when I first for the heli. So I replaced it. I think when I replaced it I must've moved the location a bit.

But as long as I know the blades should be centered, I can fix it.

Thanks
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Old Dec 07, 2012, 11:42 PM
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Louisville, Colorado
Joined Oct 2007
355 Posts
How many people are flying metal A gears? I chewed up my first one coming down too hard on grass. The second time I didn't pop it up on takeoff and I caught a blade tip on the ground when it got light and wobbly. Nothing was remotely tweaked except the A gear.

I love the way this thing flies - I have to remind myself it's not a 450 because it flies so stably and goes exactly where I tell it to go - but the A gear durability is keeping me from flying my favorite bird.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:06 AM
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United States, CA, Menlo Park
Joined Nov 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
It seems like my tail blades are pitched heavily with no rudder input. When I give full input they seem to line up to neutral. Is this correct or not?
In this video, starting at time14:20:

Blade 130 X Rear Tail Gear Repair (15 min 37 sec)


James Haley, Senior Product Developer for the 130 X, shows how to adjust the tail servo position.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:11 AM
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United States, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBird View Post
How many people are flying metal A gears? I chewed up my first one coming down too hard on grass. The second time I didn't pop it up on takeoff and I caught a blade tip on the ground when it got light and wobbly. Nothing was remotely tweaked except the A gear.

I love the way this thing flies - I have to remind myself it's not a 450 because it flies so stably and goes exactly where I tell it to go - but the A gear durability is keeping me from flying my favorite bird.

Thanks.
The metal A gear is a must. I went through four of the plastic gears in a short time. The metal A gear has eliminated that issue. Just make sure the metal A gear clears the FET on the elevator servo board.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:22 AM
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United States, CA, Menlo Park
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Originally Posted by CatBird View Post
How many people are flying metal A gears? I chewed up my first one coming down too hard on grass. The second time I didn't pop it up on takeoff and I caught a blade tip on the ground when it got light and wobbly. Nothing was remotely tweaked except the A gear.
My first plastic A gear wore out after 70 flights. I've since switched to a metal A gear. Now my metal A gear shows no wear after 120 flights.

In my experience, when the 130X tail blades touch the ground, the C gear strips. (Actually, the torque rod strips the hole in the C gear.)

Are you saying you're stripping the metal A gear? I've never heard of that. If so, is it possible that your B gear has worn or chipped teeth causing the wear? Is it possible that the A / B mesh is too loose?
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 01:01 AM
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Louisville, Colorado
Joined Oct 2007
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No, I stripped two plastic ones (original and one replacement). I was surprised it didn't hurt the C or D gear. Anyway, I'm about to order a metal A gear, but just wanted to make sure that's the right call. Sounds like it is.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 01:40 AM
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United States, FL, West Palm Beach
Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinBuckley70 View Post
It's interesting that different people have very opposite opinions of that. I wonder what the difference is? Flying style (I am a long term beginner, not 3D)? Crash actions (I always have a finger on the throttle hold switch)? Quality of the heli. out of the box?

With fairly tame flying on the mCPX I have broken 2 sets of skids, a tail-boom and the canopy.

Apart from the things on the 130X which were broken at new - the only bad thing I did was split the end section of the tail boom which I repaired with some CF tape & CA glue & I have smashed it into walls, the ground (grass & concrete), play equipment etc.

Just curious.
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
It's so interesting how different our experiences are here. I have both. I had a spectacular tail-first crash onto pavement with the 130x practicing flips. Somehow it ended up with a main blade bent down with its tip inside the landing gear skid on the side! I though, "well, my flying's over for this trip." But, guess what? After I carefully freed the blade (it was kinda' tricky) it flew! Matter of fact, it flew great! Unbelievable.
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Originally Posted by lovespicyfood View Post
It is interesting to hear the different experiences with the 130X, MCPX and Nano. It all depends on how you crash! That being said, it all comes down to physics. The bigger and heavier helis are just going to break more than the lighter helis in crashes.

I have quite a bit of experience with helis and given all the annoying issues I have had sorting out the 130X, there's no way I could recommend it for a first time CP flyer. However, if you have someone experienced to help, it could make it much more manageable. Keep in mind, I now LOVE my 130X!

Good luck whatever you decide!
When I was learning to fly my mcpx my normal routin to land was to hover 15 feet off the ground and hit throttle hold then watch it fall..lol

The 130x would break if it was landed in any form of an uncontrolled manner.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jul 2001
279 Posts
Just one more thing ... (as a long term 'beginner').

I also have a couple of mCX2's (co-axial 'toys') & I have to say that I progressed much faster with nose-in & circuits (& flying backwards) since I got those than I ever did with 'real' heli's because the mCX2 is sooooooo slow it gives you time to think & quite quickly you progress to your fingers thinking for you.

Only good for indoors though & no 3D (or collective practice). However, unlike the MCPX, they don't damage furniture & people when you bump into them!

If I was starting from scratch again, personally my collection would be: mCX2, 130X & eventually 450X.

If/when I ever get to trying 3D then maybe the MCPX would be OK but I find it too slippery & quick for indoors & too small for outdoors.
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 08:04 AM
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United States, CA, Menlo Park
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Originally Posted by Jboy90277 View Post
You should upgrade your Nano to brushless instead of selling it.
I've considered it. The videos are impressive.

How well does the tail hold with the increased power?
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Old Dec 08, 2012, 12:05 PM
2 seconds from crashing
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ifoguy View Post
I've considered it. The videos are impressive.

How well does the tail hold with the increased power?
As long as you have no vibes the tail holds very well on a brushless conversion
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