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Old Jul 16, 2012, 11:01 AM
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BG Bengtsson's Avatar
Sweden
Joined Jul 2010
186 Posts
Hi eddie
I use maybe 80degrees down on the flaps and 30degrees up on aileron plus a little tilting down on the elevator to compensate the extra lift.U can see it on my video. The bird is very stable and comes down fine, even with lost connection due to overload on the BEC due to the high current in the flaps servo! (I have now changed the servo so it has full servo arm straight forward at active flaps. That minimize the current!)
Same weather two days later in Sweden!
/BG
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 11:36 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Taunton
Joined Sep 2011
31 Posts
Hi BG,

Just been looking at your vid. I think I'm going to use less travel on my crow set-up and currently i have no down elevator. Your Diamond looks a lot more stable in crow than mine does.

I'm working 'on the road' at the moment so won't get a chance to test it for a few more days. Will let you now how it goes.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 12:40 PM
Quebec Aerotow Association
Charlescd's Avatar
Canada, QC, st-jean-sur-richelieu
Joined May 2010
589 Posts
Just wondering where you guys are getting the ARf version. No radio or battery but with flaps?
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 01:53 PM
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United States, IL, Hinckley
Joined Jan 2011
187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie currents View Post
.

2. Landing - I've got CROW set up with full flaps and about 70% aileron. This is proving very difficult in that whilst the bird slows down a-plenty it seems very susceptible to dipping one wing or the other in gusts, and i am having great difficulty correcting this. It's a real handful trying to land without touching a wingtip first. So much so, that i find it far easier to land a lot faster using just the flaps. Has anybody any CROW set-up advice relevant to the Diamond? Not sure if i've got too much travel or what??
I have CROW setup on my throttle stick. This way I can adjust how much braking I'm using through CROW. Not sure if your radio will allow this, but if it does it works quite nicely.
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 02:25 PM
insert witty phrase here
Joined Aug 2006
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Originally Posted by geives1 View Post
I have CROW setup on my throttle stick. This way I can adjust how much braking I'm using through CROW. Not sure if your radio will allow this, but if it does it works quite nicely.
I have the same thing on my Futaba. a switch to arm my Crow, then use the throttle to adjust how much i have.

cheers,
Brian
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Old Jul 16, 2012, 04:01 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Taunton
Joined Sep 2011
31 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by geives1
I have CROW setup on my throttle stick. This way I can adjust how much braking I'm using through CROW. Not sure if your radio will allow this, but if it does it works quite nicely.

I have the same thing on my Futaba. a switch to arm my Crow, then use the throttle to adjust how much i have.

cheers,
Brian
Thanks guys. Got the facility to do this on my radio. Currently i have it set up for variable flaps on the lower 50% of the throttle stick.
I use ID1 to arm the crow - i think i'm going to have a play and see if i can use ID1 to overide the flaps on the throttle stick to use variable crow for landing.

Tks
Eddie
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 01:36 AM
Spearheading an Alliance
BravoGolf's Avatar
United States, CO, Aspen
Joined Oct 2010
794 Posts
Where to buy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlescd View Post
Just wondering where you guys are getting the ARf version. No radio or battery but with flaps?
Outside of ordering from a Chinese vendor, I believe the only place you will get the flapped version, at the best price, in North America with the option of not getting radio and battery is from Banana Hobby.

Some time ago while trying to track down the best source of the Diamond 2500 I was sifting through information on the Art-Tech website, and it appears as though Art-Tech has exclusivity arrangements with regional vendors depending on their volume. For example Banana Hobby (with their lackluster customer service) actually has an exclusive U.S. (possibly North American) distribution deal based on their commitment to purchase x amount of units per year.

This is why you will not see the 2500 flapped version available from competitor Nitro Planes, for example (or any other U.S. outlet) who wanted to capitalize on the models popularity. The best they could do was bring in the un-flapped version.

BG
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 04:27 PM
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United States, NC, Hendersonville
Joined May 2010
76 Posts
Hi to all Diamond flyers! Just discovered this thread yesterday and it is timely. I'm only up to page 24. My hat is off to all of you for the great discussions and advice as well as encouragment to new comers.

I purchased a D-2500A several months ago, new in box, still in bubble wrap. $100 Setting it up with flaps. Have flown sailplanes 1978-86, had to quit for business etc, Came back to hobby 2 years ago. Electrified my old fleet, Gentle Lady, Scooter, Sailaire, and acquired a Sagitta for which I built a new fuse and electrified it also. Since I have only flown RES and have just started to get some time on ailerons, the Diamond seemed like a great transition to a full house glider. I'm almost ready to fly it, but, am having a few issues with the assembly. The wings have been a problem getting them to fit into the fuse easily. I have sanded almost every part and am almost there. However, using extensions for the flaps servos, they come apart easily making it it difficult to pull the servo wires into the fuse in order to install the wings. Could put heat shrink tubing on the connectors, but, this would require using another short extension to the Rx. Suggestions welcome!

I plan on using my Spektrun DX7 Tx & Rx and am not sure how I to set it up. I see programing for DX8's and DX6's, but, not the DX7. I might want to start simple and then progress to more exotic programming later. Any reference to DX7programming? Should I start simple or just go for it since I have experience flying sailplanes?

I am located in North Carolina and we fly at a great sod farm. We experience the full range of wind to thermal activity flying lostly all year round. The Diamond seem like a really fun aircraft and I am anxious to get it into the air.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Jul 19, 2012, 05:29 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Taunton
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack McC View Post
The wings have been a problem getting them to fit into the fuse easily. I have sanded almost every part and am almost there. However, using extensions for the flaps servos, they come apart easily making it it difficult to pull the servo wires into the fuse in order to install the wings. Could put heat shrink tubing on the connectors, but, this would require using another short extension to the Rx. Suggestions welcome!

I plan on using my Spektrun DX7 Tx & Rx and am not sure how I to set it up. I see programing for DX8's and DX6's, but, not the DX7. I might want to start simple and then progress to more exotic programming later. Any reference to DX7programming? Should I start simple or just go for it since I have experience flying sailplanes?
Yes, the wings are a very tight fit. Didn't sand mine but i was very wary of crushing the foam on fitting/removal due to the force required. It's a bit better now but still takes some effort. Add some tie-wraps to the wing dowels to aid removal.

As far as the servo leads go, i just tied string to mine, passed the string down the fus and hooked it. I have since added some 6" extensions to each servo lead so i can move the RX around. Like you i found the extensions would come apart almost voluntarily. I've now glued them as I don't want this happening in flight! I also replaced the supplied aileron 'Y' lead with two seperate leads.

Not familiar with DX7 but for my initial flights i used 25% expo (since reduced to 12 as it's not exactly 'flickable') and had variable flaps on the lower half of the throttle stick for landing. I find it's nice to add a bit of camber with the flaps to slow it in flight as well.
Having primarily flown power, it took a few landings to get used to the extended glide angle when coming in.
I've now got variable CROW on ID1 to overide the flaps if needed. Haven't used this in anger - probably this weekend.

Almost all my flights so far have been in 10-15 mph+ winds, looking forward to some nice calm days!
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 01:43 PM
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United States, NC, Hendersonville
Joined May 2010
76 Posts
Hi Eddie Currents!

Thanks for the info. Final adjustment for fit was to shave @ 1/8 in. off the forward part of the left wing root so it would move further inside the fuse and align properly for the dowels. Now have a perfect fit and needs little excess force to join. String sounds like a good idea for pulling the serve wires into the fuse. My concern is still with the wire extension for the wing flap servos. There would be 3 connectors including the Rx wire connector. Don't like too many connections. Longer extension may be viable. Might have to consider Deans plugs for the connectors as they are very positive in their contact. Will continue to work throught it.

I guess I have a lot of learning to do re: programing the TX. How did you wire the Ailerons?

Jack McC
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 03:54 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Taunton
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by Jack McC View Post
I guess I have a lot of learning to do re: programing the TX. How did you wire the Ailerons?
I ditched the included 'Y' lead and used two seperate leads instead. Now have each aileron on a separate channel giving the ability to have them both 'up' for crow braking when ID 1 enabled. I've got extended aileron leads so no extra connectors. I did extend the flaps and elevator leads using 6" extensions - however I glued the connectors together with to ensure no coming apart in flight.

Initially I had the RX at the front of the fus which is why i needed to extend the leads. I've now pushed the RX back down the gap underneath the wings where the cables run. However, having already glued the extensions in, they are staying in place!

So i have:-

Flaps using 'Y' lead on Ch5.
Left aileron on Ch4
Right aileron on Ch6


On the throttle stick my setup is as follows:-

Bottom half of stick travel has motor off and variable flaps from 0-100%. Top half of stick travel is 0% flaps and 0-100% throttle.

I have the crow brakes set to actuate when ID1 switch enabled, which overides the throttle/flaps channel. When crow is activated I then have variable travel crow (0-100%) on on of the rotary switches. Due to test this tomorrow as weather is looking good.

Not sure how any of this relates to your radio, but it may give an idea of what I'm trying to do!
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Last edited by eddie currents; Jul 20, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jul 20, 2012, 10:42 PM
Registered User
United States, NC, Hendersonville
Joined May 2010
76 Posts
Thanks Eddie,

I have some other things to do over the next week or so I will not be able to follow up immediately. Your info sounds good and I will be back at it in a couple of weeks. Will be in touch later,

Thanks

Jack McC
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 05:49 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Camarillo
Joined Jul 2012
384 Posts
I've ordered my replacement servos from HobbyKing. They are HobbyKing brand, digital, in two varieties (metal gears & nylon). I found the HiTech HS-65's look great, but after sourcing them, I found them just too expensive. As soon as the new servos arrive I'll post some details.

I take it from eddie currents discussion, that main wing/fuselage servo connector assembly is not ideal. The D2500 User Manual states that when assembling the wing/fuselage, you should tuck the servo connectors in last. I was thinking about adding longer wire to the aileron & flap servos, so that the connectors could be tucked in first.

I removed the rudder servo and found the servo extension cable connector wrapped in tape to keep it from pulling apart. Only one spot of adhesive on the bottom side securing the servo to the foam.



I see there are servo extensions available with locking hooks.




There are also snap-on servo connector locks availble, but those wouldn't allow tucking in the connectors in last.

The hook will solve all problems of them coming apart. But I find the insertion force sufficient to keep them together in flight, so eddie currents, you might not be pushing them in fully or your's could be defective.
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Last edited by Barry2020; Jul 24, 2012 at 01:15 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 12:55 AM
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USA, FL, Bradenton
Joined Oct 2007
39 Posts
I have had goodluck with Banana Hobby

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy W View Post
I have never heard anything positive about bananahobby or the virtually unknown models they sell..

I can't understand how they stay in business..
..a
I have bought from them and had no problems.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 01:20 AM
gravity tester
MRFASTPHIL's Avatar
LaPine,OR Quarztsite AZ
Joined Nov 2008
708 Posts
....i have purchased two Diamond 2500's from Banana, both were shipped promptly, arrived without damage, and flew great.
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