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Old Nov 29, 2012, 04:33 PM
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Scott,
Thank you for the complement, you will like yours as well. IMHO on of the more sexy subs out there!
When you set the pieces on a table deck down, do they line up then? (Remember to prop up the fore and aft pieces because the center portion has the conning tower key in it)
I am on the road and when I stop tonight I will post some pictures.
Peace,
Tom
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:53 PM
Just Limin'
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United States, NJ, East Brunswick
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Tom,

See the pics attached. I put the aft peice on the hull which is fitted in place and set by the notch underneath that aligns and holds in place. If I put the middle piece butted up next to it and then the front peice to align with the hawser opening at the bow, I have the gap you see in pic 1.

If I put the bow peice on and butt the middle deck peice up to it, I have the gap you see in pic 2 between the middle and aft piece.

Something I am not doing right here?

Scott
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Scott,
I see what you mean.
On my build, the deck was glued together first. I also removed most of the under structure. If you are going to R/C this keep whatever is above the waterline as light as possible. Especially if you want to get to a waterline for surface running.
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I do not know how you are going to separate your deck. My deck comes off and used the pins in the front to slide the deck onto. There are a lot of people that will cut along the waterline.
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On mine there is a end cap at the aft end to receive a screw. The hole is counter sunk to allow the screw to be flush. I hope this info helps.
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Once the deck is glued together, then I did the sides.
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Here is the gap I ended up with. I was going to put some styrene card stock in and close this up, but I ended up not doing that (I do not remember my reason - lazy or it was not that important)
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So, IMHO if you end up with a gap, it is better to keep that gap in the front, at the bow, smallest area to work on.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:57 PM
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USA, TX, Cypress
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Tom,

Would you mind adding a pic of the full hull so I can see what all you cut away? I'm curious how much of the upper cross-members you can leave and still get a caswell wtc in there.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 11:22 PM
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Sure Paul!
Here is a rough in. I knew that weight was important so
i kept snipping away
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This is the finished hull.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:11 PM
Just Limin'
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Tom,

Think I solved the issue by being able to move the aft deck up a little bit. This closed the gap. I am not R/Cing the boat. The lake I sail at is known to eat subs. I am doing a very detailed static model. I am using photoetched deck plates which over lap slightly the plastic area, so any small gap should be covered.

Scott
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 10:49 PM
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Tom, thanks for the pics! That was what I was hoping to do with mine -- now I know it will work.
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Scott, I would really like to see your sub finished, please share! I can not use much brass because weight above water line.

Paul, really glad to help. Likewise, I want to see your sub, I am looking to building another Gato.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 03:43 PM
Just Limin'
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Tom,

I have a thread here. Been doing work the past few days and will add pics to it.

Scott
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Old Apr 22, 2013, 10:07 PM
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There are those small nagging things that you want to take care of, but seem to put it off. Since I have taken a break from the Aluminaut build (there is stuff brewing there) and I have not jumped into the Moebius Skipjack yet (probably this coming weekend) I have taken the time to work on some of those things. One of those was the periscope on the Gato. Earlier I posted about casting them. Well, now it was time to install and test.
To install I used clear silicon, CA did not hold well. I fully expect to knock this off many times, but I wanted something to finish off the tube (and keep it functional). The tube aft of the periscope is a tube that can be removed. right now it serves no purpose other than protect the main periscope. Originally I was going to top both tubes off, but I like the drama of one scope piercing the water surface.

The scope does not look bad and certainly will look perfectly acceptable at sea.
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When I put a little light on the subject, you can see the area opened up to let air into the SNORT system.
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I tested the sub in the inflatable submersible test tank. She did well. Ran for 40 minutes and no issues this is hopeful.
I also removed the riser under the 20mm. Although some subs had that, a lot did not. It always thought it looked funny.
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Pool time this weekend!

A dear friend gave my son and I a Type XXIII, did a little cleanup on the WTC (a Modified Small World Models WTC - which are brilliant WTC designs)

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and tweaking to get it to work on my radio. Got it wet
My son was captain. The sub handled well and he really handled it well.
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Throw in Cub Scouts and secret plans on the lathe and that mostly catches up on the happenings around this house.
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Old May 29, 2013, 01:24 AM
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O.K. worked on a case for my 808 keychain camera.
Here is a little video to share.
Revel Gato 1/72 Underwater Film (2 min 56 sec)

Hope you enjoy!
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Old May 29, 2013, 05:53 PM
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Wow, Tom. She really handles well.
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Old May 29, 2013, 08:39 PM
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Thanks Paul. Yours will too! I love the Gato. How is your build coming along?
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Old May 31, 2013, 04:14 PM
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Its a shame that Dave Manley no longer produces his kits and cylinders. They were all top notch and very reasonably priced.
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Old Jun 01, 2013, 02:27 AM
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I agree with you. I have a WTC in my 32nd Parallel Type XXIII that is a Small World Models. It is simply brilliant in its design. I sound like a broken record about this wtc, but the more i play with it, the more i see some really well thought out designs. This Gato is using a D&E Sub-Driver which is also really cool, it would be fun to do a comparison. Has anyone done comparison tests?

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I will test the 808 camera on the Type 23 soon.
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