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Old Apr 05, 2006, 08:50 AM
"SARGE"
sargentw's Avatar
Fairfax Station, (Northern) Virginia
Joined Jun 2003
3,150 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon
Wow, great thread! Sarge, your pictures and explanations are awesome.

I have been convinced of now ordering and trying to assemble one of these, due to testimony and wealth of information.

I plan to use it with a buddybox setup to train several interested parties of diverse age brackets.

My planned setup will be:

8cell unknown amp hours >=1150 minimum from CBP
400 7.2v motor (wanted a brushed to last longer)
stock prop
GWS pico's (not sure on this, if they are strong enough?)
20amp ESC

I'm excited, but nervous about construction (I'm an obsessive builder about not about getting things "just" right) Still debating what I'm reading about taping vr. glueing.

I'm kind of confused about the foam-safe glue. Is the foam-safe glue I use on BluCor foamies the same thing I use on this type?

Also, what is appropriate for motor connectors? I use Anderson\PP for my batteries.

It seems like there is endless possibilities with this plane from AP to Parachute dropping.
Gidaeon, Dampy,

Thanks for the compliments. If I built another EZ I'd glue it again since to me there is no reason to crack it open and look inside. If glue is stronger and will hold up longer then it remains my choice for the fuse halves.

I'd stick with the stock motor and use 7 or eight cell IB1200 packs. The motor that comes with the EZ will last a long time if treated right. Save your money for a brushless upgrade. These days a direct (same sized motor) speed 400 brushless replacement can be done for under $100.00

If your buddy box trainees are going to be crashing alot I'd use HS81MG. They will hold up better. If you are a thermal hunter I'd go with any servo that's equivalent to the HiTec-55's. Some try to say the 55's are not strong enough, however I can rattle off a long list of planes that use them without problems.

Gidaeon, Don't scare the cattle it makes for tough beef when it's shipped back east.

Dampy, I have a picture and description of a 2400 2s eTec lipoly with a bunch of fishing weights on it. Check it out it's in the start of the thread. I'd go with a 7 or 8 cell IB 1200 pack. For the EZ order a brick configuration for even celled packs and a firebird configuration for odd cell packs. These configurations will balance in the plane easier.
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Old Apr 05, 2006, 09:54 AM
honey... anOTHER PLANE!
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Cedar Park, TX
Joined Aug 2002
972 Posts
Thanks for the info guys, I'll dispence with the Lipo idea and re-solder my double stick 8-cell KAN-1050's for a 'Brick' formation, and use the stock motor for time being.
Time to get busy with this kit.....
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Old Apr 05, 2006, 01:35 PM
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I'll admit I was skeptical about this whole tape thing, and couldn't find the 3m stuff but picked up another Duck brand double sided as well as "mounting tape" just to experiment.

I ordered regular polyCA, and have 'Zap a Dap a goo, and reg. poly but not sure what I will actually use for assembly. Sometimes, I hate having so many options another guy highly recommded Uhu Creativ or Por for work time.

I'm the kind of guy that just stares at a dozen brands in front of him..

I was thinking of maybee trying the IB1400 instead of Ib1200 or cbp1150, think I have an 8cell 1150 to get me started at least.

Still searching to see how high mah\weight wise people have gone with Nimh in E*. I bet someone out there pushed past 2k mah. When my E* arrives I will measure to see if I could potentially fit full AA's some day.
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Old Apr 05, 2006, 04:30 PM
honey... anOTHER PLANE!
Dampy's Avatar
Cedar Park, TX
Joined Aug 2002
972 Posts
gidaeon - funny you should mention that, I just so happen to have a bunch of 2000ma 'AA's next to me as I'm making some 3-cell packs for our cordless phones in the house. They fit EXACTLY in the width of the fuse. These aren't high amp discharge but I see Maxamps has 2300ma 15 Amp AA cells for $2ea


www.maxamps.com quote from website:
Quote:
Nimh 2300mah Supreme Power AA
Supreme Power 2300AA "AA" sized cell $1.99
1 Ounce(.03kg)
1.92 x 0.55 inch
Good Cells up to 15 amps. They also work great in transmitters. Use to replace Sanyo 1650 for more duration and higher voltage under load.
at 1oz per cell, this might end up a little heavey, then again my 8-cell 1050's weigh 6.5oz what's another 1.5oz to have 2300ma ?
thoughts...
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Old Apr 05, 2006, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dampy
gidaeon - funny you should mention that, I just so happen to have a bunch of 2000ma 'AA's next to me as I'm making some 3-cell packs for our cordless phones in the house. They fit EXACTLY in the width of the fuse. These aren't high amp discharge but I see Maxamps has 2300ma 15 Amp AA cells for $2ea

www.maxamps.com quote from website:

at 1oz per cell, this might end up a little heavey, then again my 8-cell 1050's weigh 6.5oz what's another 1.5oz to have 2300ma ?
thoughts...
Hmmm.. I may just look into this. Surely someone on ezone has used packs of such a weight? Maybee I once I have mine I can mock-up similar rechargeable batteries to see if it will balance okay, and be near recommended weight. Do you know how much yours weighs with th 1050 packs? Seems like another oz or 2 might not be a big deal if you are under to begin with. It sure would increase flight time in a pleasent way. But I am cautious about jumping straight to that before I've assembled or flown the thing.

Do they fit length wise or vertically standing?
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Old Apr 05, 2006, 11:25 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
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United States, MA, Webster
Joined Feb 2003
2,485 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gidaeon
Hmmm.. I may just look into this. Surely someone on ezone has used packs of such a weight? Maybee I once I have mine I can mock-up similar rechargeable batteries to see if it will balance okay, and be near recommended weight. Do you know how much yours weighs with th 1050 packs? Seems like another oz or 2 might not be a big deal if you are under to begin with. It sure would increase flight time in a pleasent way. But I am cautious about jumping straight to that before I've assembled or flown the thing.

Do they fit length wise or vertically standing?
Just for refference, my 7 cell 2/3 A "hump" packs weigh 5.480 oz, with wires, connector & 1 in. X 2in. Velcro patch. I have a 1/2 in. X 1/2 in. foam block in the nose to keep the pack back for proper CG. You would probably need a 1 in. spacer to move the pack back a little, but I think it would work fine, and give you great flight time.

Russ
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 07:39 AM
I make ARFs out of RTFs..
Wexford, PA USA
Joined Jun 2004
641 Posts
My home made six cell 1250 mAh NiCd pack weighs around 230 grams (8.1 oz). It flies well, but the climb rate is not as steep as I get with the six cell 900 mAh NiMH Aerobird pack. The heavier battery with more capacity does better in the wind, and it stays up longer.
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 11:37 AM
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Dampy,

Sounds like with an extra two cells over ATAC's pack w/ the same projected weight - it will help with wind, increase duration, and have a less effected climb rate than the 6cell'ers.

Thanks ATAC for the input. Do you know your AUW with such a heavy pack?

I would shipping would hurry up

Theres too many neat mods on the E* I need to limit myself to just the rudder in getting started with it for training others.

How much does your E* weigh w/o pack? I figure I can VERY safely use
24oz - (weight w/o battery).

Since I have never trained others, I am not sure what "target weight" I should shoot for in assemblying mine while considering duration for training sake.
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 01:29 PM
honey... anOTHER PLANE!
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Cedar Park, TX
Joined Aug 2002
972 Posts
gidaeon - I haven't yet got mine together so don't have AUW figures. I'm going to fly her with my 6.5oz KAN-1050's to start with, and see what sort of duration I'll get. Then maybe put a 1.5 - 2oz lead on the battery to see how she'll handle the extra weight (I have no doubt she'll do fine)
Definately thinking of making an AA pack after she's together, to try anyway though.
Here's some pics of how nicely the AA packs fit in the fuse nose, you could do all sorts of stacking, 4 on 4 (brick), 2 on 6 etc. it's realley unlimited.
for reference, shown in the pics are 7 AA cells laying flat, they are snug up against the side of the fuse.
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 01:51 PM
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Dampy - looks promising. I was thinking the same of starting with 1050 standard. And moving from there. Gotta find me some lead for the toolbox.

Did you end up gluing or taping? I'm thinking of taping motor, but glue for fuse maybee.
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 02:23 PM
honey... anOTHER PLANE!
Dampy's Avatar
Cedar Park, TX
Joined Aug 2002
972 Posts
Quote:
Did you end up gluing or taping? I'm thinking of taping motor, but glue for fuse maybee.
Haven't joined yet, but will probably glue the fuse and motor, running a third wire for the future brushless upgrade. This plane will be used to train my 6 year old son, may have to have another (Dads' only plane ) with all the learned build do's & don'ts, and bells & whistles
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Old Apr 06, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Sarge's use of Goop for the motor makes perfect sense, in light of possible replacement. I'm glad I reread the thread!

Rutat,
I plan to order both CA and UHU for construction- Are Creativ' & Por identical products w different name for distributing- or slightly different qualities?
I looked online at Creativ' and I assume you mean the kind for "foams and foils" of course. Also, I check my Zap goo II and it melted my bluCor I wonder what it would do to Elapor? I'm assuming it isn't E* friendly?

Dampy, you train the kids and in the future they can "ask" for plane stuff as gifts! My daughter is only 9months so we are still working on holding transmitter without eating it...
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Old Apr 07, 2006, 08:11 AM
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IIRC, the big diff in the glues is that POR has a volatile solvent. Still safe for some foams. I use Creativ. Works very well on Elapor, Arcel and Depron. That is what I would use. Tough call on Zap and Elapor. It _might_ be fine, YMMV. I'd tape the motor.
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Old Apr 07, 2006, 08:32 AM
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halifax nova scotia canada
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I posted these pics on the TSll site to show how to glue a large fuselage with ca and kicker without getting a misaligned fuse. I took one half of the fuse and laid it on a piece of 3/4 plywood and traced the outline with a pencil. After that was done I glued 3/4 x 3/4 sticks around the outline with ca. Once the jig was built you place the first half of the fuse in with all your wiring done then apply kicker to the other side of the fuse then apply ca to the side already in the jig and bring the two sides together. They can not help but line up because the wood pegs keep it from moving. This jig has been used to glue more than a few Easy Stars and they all come out straight and even. THE WALRUS
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Old Apr 07, 2006, 09:37 AM
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Neat idea. Hmm... I think two pegs at the leading and trailing edges of the wing slot would do the same thing?
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