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Old Yesterday, 08:33 PM
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The most recommended setting is zero degree Main Blade pitch at center stick. If you use this setting, then you'll NEVER be able to hover at center stick, because it will have ZERO degree Blade pitch. The combined Blade pitch and rpm amounts is what allows the heli to have "lift".

At 100% Travel Adjust, and zero degrees Blade pitch at center stick, most heli's will hover upright/inverted about 15% above/below center stick position. In other words, at the TX the heli should feel/respond exactly the same upright (above center position) as it does inverted (below center position).

If you never intend to fly inverted, then you can set zero degrees Blade pitch wherever; however, if you ever anticipate flying inverted (or even only flipping), then it is highly recommended to learn from the beginning how it is suppose to feel ONLY flying upright above center stick, this way whenever you have the upper half of the stick position "memorized", you'll more easily be "no-brainer" aware and comfortable of how the other half "lives" (throttle/pitch wise), this will reduce the amount of new stuff (new AIL, EL, and RUD "orientation") there will be to learn when transitioning to inverted flying.

Once you start flipping every which direction, you'll think less about flying "up" or "down", and more about flying towards the "head" or "skid", with neither "head" nor "skid" more important than the other, and therefore desire them both to be equally responsive about center stick position.
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Last edited by i812; Yesterday at 09:02 PM. Reason: add last paragraph
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Old Yesterday, 08:53 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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United States, AR, North Little Rock
Joined Feb 2011
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I Ate One Two: Do you think increasing travel adjust for pitch will shrink hover upright/inverted about 15% above/below center stick position.
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Old Yesterday, 08:55 PM
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FL
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
The most recommended setting is zero degree Main Blade pitch at center stick. If you use this setting, then you'll NEVER be able to hover at center stick, because it will have ZERO degree Blade pitch. The combined Blade pitch and rpm amounts is what allows the heli to have "lift".

At 100% Travel Adjust, and zero degrees Blade pitch at center stick, most heli's will hover upright/inverted about 15% above/below center stick position. In other words, at the TX the heli should feel/respond exactly the same upright (above center position) as it does inverted (below center position).

If you never intend to fly inverted, then you can set zero degrees Blade pitch wherever; however, if you ever anticipate flying inverted (or even only flipping), then it is highly recommended to learn from the beginning how it is suppose to feel ONLY flying upright above center stick, this way whenever you have the upper half of the stick position "memorized", you'll more easily be "no-brainer" aware and comfortable of how the other half "lives" (throttle/pitch wise), this will reduce the amount of new stuff (new AIL, EL, and RUD "orientation") there will be to learn when transitioning to inverted flying.
yeah now that 0 pitch is centered on the stick it is a much better flight for me. silly me didnt think i can extend the links. some more flights and i love this thing. first 2 minutes are the best. starts to get sluggish a little after you hit 2 minutes of flight. still more powerful than the other micrtos ive flown so all good. i;kk try to take a vid of my crappy tic tocs and loops etc
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Old Yesterday, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Survivor View Post
I Ate One Two: Do you think increasing travel adjust for pitch will shrink hover upright/inverted about 15% above/below center stick position.
Yes, adjusting TA, is like an Accordion expanding and contracting the individual "end points" about the "fixed" center point. In other words, TA does NOT affect center position, but EVERYTHING on each side of center, INCLUDING Dual Rates, and Expo.

For this reason, I use TA to prevent mechanical binding limits (this depends on the heli's mechanical design: none of my Blade heli's bind at 100% TA; however, my Walkera Mini CP WILL mechanically bind (i.e. strip Servo Gears) before 100%).

Then after TA is set, I "permanently" leave the TA setting alone (this way I KNOW I'll NEVER be able to mechanically bind (i.e. cause mechanical Servo related damage) the heli.

From that moment onwards, if I ever want to change the maximum amount of Servo movement, I do it ONLY using Dual Rates, and/or Throttle, Pitch curves.

Changing Dual Rates, Throttle and Pitch Curves has NO affect on TA.

Changing TA, WILL ALWAYS affect Dual Rates, Throttle and Pitch Curves.
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Last edited by i812; Yesterday at 10:53 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old Yesterday, 09:25 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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United States, AR, North Little Rock
Joined Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Yes, adjusting TA, is like an Accordian expanding and contracting its "end points" about its center point. In other words, TA does NOT effect center position, but EVERYTHING around center, INCLUDING Dual Rates, and Expo.

For this reason, I use TA to prevent mechanical binding limits (this depends on the heli's mechanical design, none of my Blade heli's bind at 100% TA; however, my Walkera Mini CP WILL mechanically bind (i.e. strip Servo Gears) before 100%.

Then after TA is set, I "permanently" leave the TA setting alone (this way I KNOW I'll NEVER be able to mechanically bind (i.e. cause mechanical Servo related damage) the heli.

From the moment onwards, if I every want to change the maximum amount of Servo movement, I do it ONLY using Dual Rates, and/or Throttle, Pitch curves.

Changing Dual Rates, Throttle and Pitch Curves has NO effect on TA.

Changing TA, WILL ALWAYS effect Dual Rates, Throttle and Pitch Curves.
Thanks, I'll leave my upped travel adjust for pitch & test tomorrow for flips closer to center stick.
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Old Yesterday, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Wingbreaker View Post
yeah now that 0 pitch is centered on the stick it is a much better flight for me. silly me didnt think i can extend the links. some more flights and i love this thing. first 2 minutes are the best. starts to get sluggish a little after you hit 2 minutes of flight. still more powerful than the other micrtos ive flown so all good. i;kk try to take a vid of my crappy tic tocs and loops etc
Once you mechanically adjust the Links for zero Blade pitch at center stick, then if you every "loose" zero degrees Blade pitch at center stick, then it is probably because you bent the Link(s). It's much easier re-bending a Link than it is to undo the Link and turn it in complete "trial-and-error" 360 degree increments.

The 130 is the largest heli I've flown to date. Below is what I posted when I first started flying it:

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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
I've never given my heli's nicknames, but today after flying the Nano, mCPxBL, and 130 in the park, I came back calling the 130: Number One

I have a feeling that I'm going to be a regular at the park now.

I have two HK450's I bought three years ago when I was bored with the mSR. The 130 has me wondering how much fun they might be. I've already plowed the 130 a few times into the ground, and it seems resilient (although I think it's Feathering Spindle may be bent now, because the 130 occasionally shakes in the air ). I have a feeling the 450's aren't going to be as crash resilient, but that's OK, I only paid $20 for their AirFrames.
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Old Yesterday, 11:51 PM
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United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined May 2014
198 Posts
Tail slop the culpret?

here is a probably much asked question, but I didn't see an answer when searching the thread or google, so asking those more familiar than I with the 130x.

I've noticed that when I fly if I give more than just gentle turns with some slow and simple circuits that the tail looses authority and at times the heli will spin between 90 and 180 degrees, I don't know if that is formal tail blow out or not, but very hard to control around if you are doing more than simple gentle flying and has led to a couple of crashes.

I've already replaced the D gear because the flat was rounded out before my last flights where I was having the tbo. I've tested gear slippage by holding either the D gear in a fixed position and the C gear. I've tested this by holding a gear steady with say a thumbnail, then applying torque via either the main shaft or tail shaft, depending on which gear I am testing. Before with my bad D gear, I would feel the shaft turn within the gear, but now I am not with any of them, so I am pretty sure all my gears (A-D) are good. I also checked the mesh between the A/B gears and the C/D gears and that looks good too.

However, what I did notice was a huge amount of back and forth slop (pitch slop) in my tail blades. I see the pin on the tail pitch control slider has slop within the pitch lever. The pitch lever does move a little where the servo control rod attaches, and I see the plastic slider rocks back and forth (fwd/backward) on the linear servo. I also noticed the tail blades would rotate/twist in the pitch direction within the blade holders too. In total, I bet I am getting at least +/- 7 degrees of free play.

So here is the question, is this a normal amount of slop? I am guessing that with the slop, the control board over compensates and then things whip around to some new orientation.

I have a new DS35 servo and the Microheli mount for it, plus I have a new all metal Microheli tail power package (MHE130XTPWW) that I could install. Does the metal tail take care of the slop, if that is what is causing the tail blowouts? My tail servo does not appear to be stripped as I tried pushing the plastic connector within the servo and it did not slip on the threaded shaft, but could that also be part of the problem and hence should be replaced too with the DS35?

As a note, I don't have any vibration issues, just the tail loosing control and whipping around.

Thx for the help.
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Old Today, 12:01 AM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Sep 2013
363 Posts
if your ABC and D gears are all good, not stripped in center, no missing theet......then your poor tail authority is probably just due to the crap linear servo.

Do not waste your time with the DS35 unless you know it's an older one that works. Jump right to the DS76T and fly worry free.
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Old Today, 01:54 AM
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I still stand by my old post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11764

When looking at Gear Mesh, I look for worst case scenario. This means for TBO, I'd be looking for way too much air-gap between mating Gears at the WORST possible location all along the "suspect" Gear's circumference, when everything (all other Gear Train parts) is "stacked" in the worst possible case scenario. And Gear mesh just barely "hanging" on by the edge of a tooth won't "cut" it, it needs to be "solid" nearly 100% penetration. When all other Gear Train parts are stacked in their worst case scenario, If you can reasonably force a suspect Gear to slip a tooth, then something's wrong, and it will probably slip during flight, especially if you're a "stick" banger.

If I hold my Main Gear steady, I can rotate the Tail Shaft/Hub about 45 degrees free play from one extreme to other. That free play is ALL due to the combined amount of free play from Main Shaft up-down play (See NOTE below) all the way through the Gear Train to the D Gear. Even so, I don't have TBO.

NOTES:

I have about 1 mm up-down play between A-Gear and Main Frame, and a Lynx "upgrade" Shim can be installed to tighten it up, but I don't like tearing stuff apart unless something is "really" broke. I tend to fly stuff until the "rotors" fall off, before I "pull over" and fix it.
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Last edited by i812; Today at 02:40 AM. Reason: add NOTE
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Old Today, 06:08 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Sorry to hear about the Swashplate separating, but happy to hear you found someone local to fix RX's. Anytime I fix an electrical repair, before finalizing the repair, I try to determine why the failure occurred, and a way to help prevent the same type failure from happening again.
The servo sockets could do with some protection, perhaps some hot glue at the base. My LHS could normally fix it but he was concerned about the stripped off metal plate. A number of cell phone shops refused to fix it but I was lucky in the end.

The swashplate separated on another heli together. I also got instances when the cyclic seemed to lock up on another. I found that one of the pitch servo tend to move slowly compared to the other two. I am getting really suspicious that the QC has really dropped as I have not seen these problems before. There was also the issue of poor meshing between the main gear and the motor. There was also the fact that two of my boards failed in just over 50 flights. It is as if I am getting what I paid for.
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Old Today, 07:12 AM
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FL
Joined Nov 2003
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Originally Posted by i812 View Post
Once you mechanically adjust the Links for zero Blade pitch at center stick, then if you every "loose" zero degrees Blade pitch at center stick, then it is probably because you bent the Link(s). It's much easier re-bending a Link than it is to undo the Link and turn it in complete "trial-and-error" 360 degree increments.

The 130 is the largest heli I've flown to date. Below is what I posted when I first started flying it:
dude you need to fly a big one. I've flown up to a goblin 630. However, I've gotten rid of my 550 and up size helis. I've found that 500 and 450 work best for me. The goblin 380 will probably be the best of both worlds. They have the blade 550x on sale with motor and blads for $249. Good deal for a decent 550
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