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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
6,277 Posts
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A motor is not a motor......
LOL KV only means the RPM it will do per volt. It doesn't mean anything about what power the motor can handle. For a given voltage, AND the load the motor has on it (what fan, prop etc), it will TRY to run a Speed X (dictated by KV), but only be able to reach "X divided by Y" according to its construction versus that load. The situation it is in will make is draw Z Amps. For the exact same motor and situation (fan it is in) if you raise volts you will cause the Amps to rise. Power = Volts x Amps, thus power rises too. If the motor was only made to cope with Power X, it will fry if you cause it to run (or try to run) at higher power - they will all keep going higher than they are truly capable of, for X amount... to the point they fry. Too much heat basically..... via too much current (Amps) through the windings. So.... KV on its own means little. What matters is a total of a number of factors. If someone says they had a motor of X KV, and another person had another motor type of the same X KV, you still need to know WHAT were all the other specs of each motor, to know which will do what for a given cell count and fan use. |
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Joined Oct 2009
454 Posts
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
6,277 Posts
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Those HK 10-blade alloys are Lander DPS fans. HK tend to list the correct lander specs for those (most HK numbers are wishy washy 'made up' specs. eg for other motors etc)
The 4S version is likely to be a 2950 motor (6S are 2960), I forget. Typically capable of around 1000W.... but you can burst them out to higher some amount. 1000w/14.8v = 67Amps capable. Even that is a number that a 2950 (or even 2960) motor won't like long term. I would say by about 80Amps or so the windings are not going to be too happy! Getting very hot due to that current through their relatively thin gauge. You would not really want to even burst run them through 80Amps much at all. 105Amps is very high and getting into the region of "Instant death"... windings fry in a split second!! Irrespective of an alloy housing helping heat to be removed.... that is a slow long term process, and will not help fast instant heat problems... like running 80,,, 105 Amps will create. They are a very nice fan unit. A good motor. Plus a good price at least from HK. But you don't really want to fry and ruin one for nothing! So I wouldn't advise hitting numbers over that 80Amps area for very long at all, and preferably never. |
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Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Mar 2011
515 Posts
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More KV means faster spinning more for the same number of volts, but there are more factors than how fast the motor spins. For example, number of blades on the rotor - some people in this thread have "unloaded" the stock fan by cutting 3 alternate blades off. Motor power is a combination of RPM and torque. In the ducted fan design, slower turning motors like 2000kv may be run on more cells (like 4 or 6) so that's more volts, less amps. Faster turning motors like 5000kv are usually designed to run on fewer cells such as 3. (comparably less volts, more amps) There even exist motors with ratings like 13500kv designed to run on 1 cell, or 12,000kv designed for 2 cells. |
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Joined Jul 2012
250 Posts
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you say ##They are a very nice fan unit. A good motor. Plus a good price at least from HK. But you don't really want to fry and ruin one for nothing! So I wouldn't advise hitting numbers over that 80Amps area for very long at all, and preferably never #### I Have been running that fan on 4s pulling 85 amps for over 50 flights I have seen no loss of performance at all So in my book this fan can handle 85 amps all day long |
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
6,277 Posts
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This below as WRONG.... as it is a 2970 motor in the 10blade 4S. Which is a very good motor size... and needed to fit the windings that can do 80A+ to get 1200w with 4S.
So it is a 1200w capable motor. (but still would not be happy doing that max long term. eg all flight etc). You could still not use 5S. (I was thinking of the 4S 5 blade DPS with all the numbers - it uses a 2850 1000w motor) V V V LOL, you wouldn't run 85A for 1 minute, let alone all day long..... A 2850 (or 2950) is typically a 1000W motor. Your claim is for near 1200W 1000w at 4S (14.8v) is 67Amps. That is all they are rated for. But they can be run higher than that, for peaks, short runs.... like 80A or your 85A area. It is over the specs of the windings and may or may not last long. That is up to luck of the ambient temp... the real winding temp of that run (came from a lot cooler, or not... or how long it ran etc etc). But basically, you are in the region of frying it and pure luck if you do or don't. No technical merit, just luck. If you choose to risk it, and the loss of the motor cost ($50 approx) then fine. |
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Joined Jul 2012
250 Posts
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I'll keep pushing this fan as hard as i can,and when or if it dies I'll just buy another motor, 50 bucks I make that in less than an hour LOL ![]() PS: by the way I have always been very lucky |
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Last edited by Quadmad; Feb 05, 2013 at 03:43 AM.
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2012
39 Posts
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United Kingdom, England, Beverley
Joined Jan 2013
79 Posts
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TURNIGY PLUSH 80 amp esc
I have finished my t45 the same as dishos, but when I plugged the ESC in in continually beeps and nothing but the mother jiggling.
When I look on the instructions it says that it is possible that the voltage is to high. I don't get this as the packs have been used before and all are fine. I have noticed though when I conect the pacts there is a small spark. I have had this before but the small spark did not cause a problem. Another strange thing is when I gentle squeeze the ESP it starts working. Any help would be great |
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trim all the way down on your transmitter ? as this will cause the esc to beep, also check the throttle chanel is not reversed, you do get a spark conecting the packs on 6s. its possable a faulty esc as i did have one that would work when i would gentle squeeze the esc |
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United Kingdom, England, Beverley
Joined Jan 2013
79 Posts
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Cheers Disho
I don't know how, but I left it as I was getting pxxxxd off with it. An hour later I plugged it in and it worked, but the orange reciever keeps flashing. If I rebind it the orange light goes solid, but when the battrie is disconnected and plugged back in it starts flashing. The only way I can keep it solid is if I turn my DX6i off then then plug the bat in and then turn the transmitter back on. Disho Did you find that with a 6 cell 3300 when held in an upright position and full throttle would it hover or did it slowly drop. Mine slowly drops, but I recon if I gently threw it level it would be off like a goodun. Tommorow is forecasted 7mph winds, so hopefully a maiden. |
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