Originally Posted by 3dRCrazy

Is there any alternative prop than the 8x6 slowfly for the 28in models. One with a little less power?

or you could program it on your radio(for example for 100% to 80%) that way your set up would run cooler and you would pull less amps,not to mention longer flight time

Originally Posted by 3dRCrazy

Is there any alternative prop than the 8x6 slowfly for the 28in models. One with a little less power?

Why would you want less power?

Less power often makes the powerband easier to manage finite adjustments. So it's easier to get just a 'little bit' more throttle when you want it.

It IS possible to have too much power in these airplanes.

I would agree to a point. I have a BAF Juka with the recommended Scorpian motor. It has insane power, as do most of my foamies but it is easy to control with the left stick. If you have trouble with the left stick, then you probably have the same issue with the rudder. If you can't control both, your in trouble.

Now that being said, the power needs to be linear, so be sure and set you end points correctly on the ESC.

I would rather have the extra power by pushing up the left stick then go to the stops and not have enough. It just takes burning milliamps to learn and get the technique down.

RCNXS

Originally Posted by dcronkhite

Less power often makes the powerband easier to manage finite adjustments. So it's easier to get just a 'little bit' more throttle when you want it.

It IS possible to have too much power in these airplanes.

Originally Posted by dcronkhite

Less power often makes the powerband easier to manage finite adjustments. So it's easier to get just a 'little bit' more throttle when you want it.

It IS possible to have too much power in these airplanes.

I can understand that to an extent. My 38" Yak has almost trainer-like power levels, and I feel like flying 3D at such low power made me a better pilot.

Ok, I finished the Juka but its tail heavy. Is the C.G. From D.W. pretty close? I moved the ESC all the way up and the battery (1300mah) right to the motor mount and I'm very close to 1/2" behind the spar. It came with a Turnigy ESC, but I don't care for it. It does not seem to have very smooth throttle response . If I want to have some real fun later , it will need longer servo arms also.

Andy

"trainer like power levels" I agree. I just got a 39 inch DW Foamy YAK 54 two weeks ago. I have already over 20 flights on it and have been able to do most every 3D stunt with it right out of the chute that I have been practicing on the Real Flight Sim. Last Sunday when I re-launched my Radian Pro Glider for the first time in almost a year it seemed so much less daunting to fly. The Foamy has taught me so much in just this short amount of time that I would agree that it is almost like a trainer plane.

Originally Posted by foamyflyerr

"trainer like power levels" I agree.

FWIW, I fly my 38" Yak on a Park 370 (might be a 400...don't have the plane in the same state to have a look at, lol). Either way, it's less power than the plane is spec'ed for. It can hover, but just barely--and don't even think of trying to punch it out.

Originally Posted by AJsToyz

Ok, I finished the Juka but its tail heavy. Is the C.G. From D.W. pretty close? I moved the ESC all the way up and the battery (1300mah) right to the motor mount and I'm very close to 1/2" behind the spar. It came with a Turnigy ESC, but I don't care for it. It does not seem to have very smooth throttle response . If I want to have some real fun later , it will need longer servo arms also.

Andy

The CG on my Juka is set for level flight both upright and inverted. I think I read that in the manual somewhere. Just remember CG is kind of a personal preference. Some like it more forward and others more to the rear.

I totally understand that ( have quite a few planes ) the question is, "is the CG in the manual pretty close or accurate for starts?" If I don't have the battery and esc all the way at the motor the plane is extremely tail heavy.

Originally Posted by AJsToyz

I totally understand that ( have quite a few planes ) the question is, "is the CG in the manual pretty close or accurate for starts?" If I don't have the battery and esc all the way at the motor the plane is extremely tail heavy.

I have 3 DW 40" planes and all are neutral if I balance 1/2 behind spar as the manual calls for. The 40" Yak has a Hacker 2020L, The Extra has a Hacker 3028S or a Rocket 3010 and all fly with 1000 mah Sky lipo's.
John

Originally Posted by AJsToyz

I totally understand that ( have quite a few planes ) the question is, "is the CG in the manual pretty close or accurate for starts?" If I don't have the battery and esc all the way at the motor the plane is extremely tail heavy.

Yes the CG that Mike has called out is definetly OK, to go with as a starting point.

Mike R

Originally Posted by AJsToyz

I totally understand that ( have quite a few planes ) the question is, "is the CG in the manual pretty close or accurate for starts?" If I don't have the battery and esc all the way at the motor the plane is extremely tail heavy.

Just a thought, but maybe you can look at the placement of the rudder and elevator servos. Moving them forward gives a pretty big bang for the buck because of the long moment arm back at the tail.

Marc

If you have seen the Aurora lights, you know what I'm talking about. They are pricey, so I made my own version which I show on this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=7994

The end result (the picture doesn't do the brightness justice!)


Happy 24hr flying!

crashed my beloved 40 Juka into a chain link fence at a soccer turf field this morning trying to come out of a low roller. Ripped off the nose section again including firewall. I think it might be time to retire it and build the back up 40 Juka kit that's been patiently waiting in the garage. It had been rebuilt about 4 or 5 times with nearly two bottles of CA in it. It will be missed.