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Old Jul 22, 2014, 12:17 PM
D'mon
Dmon96's Avatar
Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
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Creole Queen inspired build

I am not going to post a play by play on my build - sorry, I love reading them but to do so is a lot of work. However, I am doing one on my local forum and invite anyone interested to follow it at http://www.rcwinnipeg.ca/showthread....ernwheeler-kit
I am also taking pictures ad nauseum and posting them on Photobucket at http://s305.photobucket.com/user/Dmo...Creole%20Queen
Both sites are open to the public, and I welcome you to follow my build thru either site.

First off, I really like sternwheelers. A friend built the Paddlewheel Queen, a local icon here in Winnipeg, Canada. He started with the Creole Queen as guidance and basically scratch built his paddlewheel. I have been very fortunate to learn from his trials- thanks, Bram! This is my first scratch build - I have built a few balsa planes in my youth and have heavily modified RTR boats, as well as I am currently restoring a 1960's Aerokit Sea Queen (read that as breaking it down to sticks and regluing every part back together) but this is my first kit/scratchbuild.

I started with buying the Creole Queen kit. As so many people are so dissatisfied with the wood in the Creole Queen kit, I had decided right away to use good quality plywood and build it right. I built out of 1/4 and 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood, which I found to be virtually knot free, good both sides, and strong yet light. I built the keel, ribs and such out of the 1/4", and sheeted the hull with 1/8". I also decided to give it an extra inch of draft - afterall, it is below the water and it is easier (I thought) to do so and add weight than to try and add styrofoam to try and get it to float. Boy, it was a LOT of work to design the ribs with an extra inch of depth - specifically rib 1 to 6! I also arrogantly decided to do sheet ply instead of using solid blocks and shaping. I am happy with the results, but it took more than a few trial and error ribs to get to this point.

I also built the paddlewheel out of styrene. To my personal view, it is far superior in strength and accuracy but this would be a personal preference. If doing so, you REALLY need to get a styrene circle cutter and have a lot of patience. But I think it is well worth the effort.

Here is a couple of pics of my hull as it sits now. Next is to add the deck and fiberglass it. This hull is strong and light - I am very happy on how it worked out. Still needs a bit of plastic wood and sanding, then Z-poxy and fiberglass!



Any suggestions are very welcome, as well as suggestions on what ship I should build from this point above the waterline. I don't really want to build the Creole Queen - with the kit on the market, it is done to death and I prefer the late 1800 era steam ships anyway. My next build is already planned - I am going to build a pusher tug sternwheeler. I think that would have been an easier first scratchbuild, but in for a penny...
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 12:38 PM
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Joined Oct 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmon96 View Post
I am not going to post a play by play on my build - sorry, I love reading them but to do so is a lot of work. However, I am doing one on my local forum and invite anyone interested to follow it at http://www.rcwinnipeg.ca/showthread....ernwheeler-kit
I am also taking pictures ad nauseum and posting them on Photobucket at http://s305.photobucket.com/user/Dmo...Creole%20Queen
Both sites are open to the public, and I welcome you to follow my build thru either site.

First off, I really like sternwheelers. A friend built the Paddlewheel Queen, a local icon here in Winnipeg, Canada. He started with the Creole Queen as guidance and basically scratch built his paddlewheel. I have been very fortunate to learn from his trials- thanks, Bram! This is my first scratch build - I have built a few balsa planes in my youth and have heavily modified RTR boats, as well as I am currently restoring a 1960's Aerokit Sea Queen (read that as breaking it down to sticks and regluing every part back together) but this is my first kit/scratchbuild.

I started with buying the Creole Queen kit. As so many people are so dissatisfied with the wood in the Creole Queen kit, I had decided right away to use good quality plywood and build it right. I built out of 1/4 and 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood, which I found to be virtually knot free, good both sides, and strong yet light. I built the keel, ribs and such out of the 1/4", and sheeted the hull with 1/8". I also decided to give it an extra inch of draft - afterall, it is below the water and it is easier (I thought) to do so and add weight than to try and add styrofoam to try and get it to float. Boy, it was a LOT of work to design the ribs with an extra inch of depth - specifically rib 1 to 6! I also arrogantly decided to do sheet ply instead of using solid blocks and shaping. I am happy with the results, but it took more than a few trial and error ribs to get to this point.

I also built the paddlewheel out of styrene. To my personal view, it is far superior in strength and accuracy but this would be a personal preference. If doing so, you REALLY need to get a styrene circle cutter and have a lot of patience. But I think it is well worth the effort.

Here is a couple of pics of my hull as it sits now. Next is to add the deck and fiberglass it. This hull is strong and light - I am very happy on how it worked out. Still needs a bit of plastic wood and sanding, then Z-poxy and fiberglass!



Any suggestions are very welcome, as well as suggestions on what ship I should build from this point above the waterline. I don't really want to build the Creole Queen - with the kit on the market, it is done to death and I prefer the late 1800 era steam ships anyway. My next build is already planned - I am going to build a pusher tug sternwheeler. I think that would have been an easier first scratchbuild, but in for a penny...
Best to you on your paddle wheeler build. I decided to build my 1:32, 6.33" diameter x 7" wide out of brass with wood paddle blades. It ended up being a very rigid, and strong wheel, and expensive to build. I wanted to model the actual boat's paddlewheel which meant many, many parts. The 4 intricate hubs were water jet cut out of thin brass sheet as were the hoops. I think I ended up with 815 individual parts in the paddlewheel. I hope this gives you some ideas on how to approach building a paddlewheel. Styrene was an option I considered and rejected after not being able to hand-cut the intricate hubs with any degree of success. I also wanted strength to stand up to taking debris through the paddlewheel. It will be easy to replace a broken wood paddle blade. The paddlewheel on a model is the crown jewel that is the center of attention. So, I wanted to make this as realistic as possible. And lastly, the substantial mass of the brass paddle wheel will aid in achieving smooth slow speed steam engine performance.

Good luck,
Mike in Edmonds
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 12:48 PM
D'mon
Dmon96's Avatar
Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
Hookpilot - I had already seen your build thread here on RCGroups and was astonished at the level of detail you had put into your paddlewheel. I think this level would be beyond my current skillset- this is my first scratchbuild. You do inspire me to strive to do my best - always reach for the stars as they say. Maybe I will try it on my next one, but for now I will stick with styrene- can always replace the assembly down the road if I choose. Thanks for posting those amazing pics!
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 03:54 PM
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Paddlewheel in Styrene

Building a paddle wheel in styrene would be very doable. One approach comes to mind-
As you suggested, cut spoke wheels out of sheet styrene. You could also beef up the styrene with rectangular cross section solid styrene bars to glue over spokes. Instead of intricate hubs, just cut solid circles to sandwich the base of the spokes between hubs. Cut the hoops and glue down over spokes. The paddle wheel would go together similar to mine, but without all the detail work on hubs and paddlewheel attachment hardware. Given the smaller size, a styrene paddle wheel should be very strong. Preston's paddle wheel had staggered blades. I'd make an unstaggered paddle wheel, much simpler to make and works just as well. For the paddle wheel shaft, try a solid or brass tube inner shaft telescoped over styrene tubing. Having an outer styrene tube-shaft gives you a very strong and quick building base for the spoke wheels. Pick a tubing O.D. that will easily match a drive pulley I.D. No soldering required. Use styrene paddle blades, again easy to work with and quick to glue in place. Finishing and painting will be much easier using styrene. I assume you will use a belt or chain drive. Attaching a pulley or chain drive sprocket to the end of the paddle wheel shaft will be easy. See a place called ServoCity.com for parts to do this. This should not be a difficult project, just take it a bite at a time. I'd be glad to help out if I can along the way.

Mike
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 04:34 PM
D'mon
Dmon96's Avatar
Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
You have detailled exactly what I had done. ;o) I used 4mm square rod, and 1.5mm sheet styrene and used a brass 1/8" rod and used stryene tubes to build up to a 3/8" o/d.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb37bdab2.jpg
It has not near the same detail, but I am confident it will be durable.
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmon96 View Post
You have detailled exactly what I had done. ;o) I used 4mm square rod, and 1.5mm sheet styrene and used a brass 1/8" rod and used stryene tubes to build up to a 3/8" o/d.
http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/n...psb37bdab2.jpg
It has not near the same detail, but I am confident it will be durable.
Going back over your posts, I ran across your Photobucket shots of the paddlewheel. Funny how great minds work together. What diameter is your paddlewheel? It looks like it will be strong and easy to build. It looks great!
Can't wait to see her underway on the water.

Mike
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Old Jul 23, 2014, 06:41 PM
D'mon
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
Thanks. It is an exact copy of the Dumas Creole Queen paddlewheel... although I put rings on instead of cutting the wheels with the rings as part of them. 5" diameter, 6" wide...
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Old Jul 31, 2014, 12:31 PM
D'mon
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
I have roughed out the drive system for my sternwheeler. I video taped the results - I am very happy with the way it turned out.
motor test #2 for Creole Queen inspired RC boat build (1 min 39 sec)
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Old Jul 31, 2014, 03:04 PM
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United States, LA, Houma
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nice work,cant wait to see the test vids.
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Old Jul 31, 2014, 04:25 PM
D'mon
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
Got a long way to go... I have not yet fiberglassed the hull, and I am still trying to decide on the superstructure- thinking of going along the lines of Chaperon, but it is still up in the air. But thanks for the kind words...
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 12:41 AM
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United States, OR, Cave Junction
Joined Nov 2012
159 Posts
hi im building the queen .im wondering about your motor .i just havent been able to bring myself to pay 100.00+for dumas motor.i know theres a cheaper way.is yours a dumas motor
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 01:00 AM
Portland Oregon
United States, OR, Tigard
Joined Apr 2014
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Originally Posted by deep water View Post
hi im building the queen .im wondering about your motor .i just havent been able to bring myself to pay 100.00+for dumas motor.i know theres a cheaper way.is yours a dumas motor
Deepwater,

Some of the best motors come from Servocity ( http://www.servocity.com/html/3-12v_gear_motors.html ). For example the 302 rpm motor is like $24.95 US, if you need servos and a belt drive they have those also so you can save money on the shipping.

Andre
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:46 AM
D'mon
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
For the motor, I bought a 150rpm 12 volt motor off eBay - go to the eBay.com site and search 141292149072. This is the item number from the exact motor I bought. It cost me about $15 Canadian ( I am in Winnipeg, Canada so my prices are in Canadian currency) and arrived in about 2 1/2 weeks.

For the drive belt, I bought an HPI urethane belt 87006 from my LHS for $10.99.

For the drive and the paddlewheel pulleys, I bought Losi LOSA99403 STARTER MOTOR PULLEY SET FOR 8IGHT/T from my LHS - was $4.99 for two. These have to be drilled out to mount on your motor (I JB Welded it on the shaft) and has to be CA glued to the paddlewheel.

The cogs on the pulleys line up with the belt despite being from two different manufacturers. That glued together o-ring type belt from Dumas never made sense to me, and if that splice let go in the middle of the pond it would probably be lost.

Here are a couple of videos of my bench test - I only fiber glassed yesterday and am not yet ready for a pond test but you can see how I have it set up.
Creole Queen inspired scratchbuild - motor and drive test (0 min 45 sec)

motor test #2 for Creole Queen inspired RC boat build (1 min 39 sec)

The first video is using my bench power supply to run it, but the second one is with an ESC and radio so is a very accurate example of how it will run in the water. I am extremely happy with the performance of this setup. And I was shown how to use the cogs and belt by a friend of mine in our club who has been running the belt and cog system with a Dumas motor for a year now in a scratchbuilt sternwheeler he did of our local heritage boat - the Paddlewheel Queen. You do have to be handy to drill bigger holes on the cogs though - it is not for someone not comfortable with modifications and is a pain to hold onto the cog without damaging it. But IMHO it is well worth it! total cost for the drive system, $30 and about an hour of fabricating and modifying time...

If you have any further questions, let me know. I am happy to help.
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 08:55 AM
D'mon
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
Joined Nov 2013
77 Posts
The motors on the site that Andre Anderson posted look to be the same type of motors as I used. I don't know if I would get the 101RPM or the 168RPM motor but you can judge from my videos which would be more to your liking - mine is rated at 150RP?M. It is very important to get one with an offset output shaft like these for adjusting the belt tension - as you turn the motor in the clamp it moves the position of the shaft forward or backward from the paddlewheel. This allows for pretty precise adjusting of the tension of the belt. Thanks, Andre!
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Old Aug 05, 2014, 06:54 PM
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United States, OR, Cave Junction
Joined Nov 2012
159 Posts
creole queen

thanks much here is some pics of mine so far
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