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Old Dec 17, 2015, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarjohn View Post
Allan, in light air you run the arm straight, in heavy air you adjust the angel of the arm for the speed of the wind, what happens is at close halled the main moves before the jib, so in a puff you can ease the main and not the jib and boat will not round up as much
John R.
Very nice. I've seen an L shaped arm which accomplished the same thing, but was not adjustable for light air.
On my bigger boats, I use a mainsail fine trim for "dumping the traveler" in breeze uphill. (if class rules allow)
I've always found main fine trim more useful than jib fine trim just for that reason.
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Old Dec 17, 2015, 08:34 PM
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367

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarjohn View Post
Hi Ken, I second what Allan said, I also belong to the Chicago club, I have 2 completed boats #367 witch is a old cabin style and #1406 witch was built as a smooth deck, also hull #1407 witch is out east having a mold made from it,
thanks for starting this thread
John R.
where can i get one with a cabin like your #367?
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Old Dec 17, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Actually, in light air you want the arm bent the other way rather than straight so the jib leads the main so as the jib opens and "breathes" depowering it, the main keeps pulling at close hauled. In moderate breezes you want both to move almost together.

See www.onemetre.net. Build>R/C>Arm Winch Geometry.

I have an idea about how to build an easily adjustable arm, but have yet to flesh it out. Too many other projects. 🤓
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Old Dec 17, 2015, 10:59 PM
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Question on Mast step hole

Working on Vortex # 383 which is the old Cabin Style boat. There is only one hole for the mast and that is at 28 inches exactly from the front of the bow. The hole is in the fiberglass of the hull. I am wondering if I should make up a mast step plate with a few different holes for optional placement sites for the mast ?? if so, what distances should I make such holes ?? any help appreciated.

Since I yanked all the old stuff out, the Vortex and two standard size servos needed to operate it weigh 2 # 2.1 oz or 968 grams.
the servo city set up weighs 1# 0.1 oz or 457 grams....The set up pictured in the post from a few days ago above is home made I believe using wood and put into a new hull without retro fitting, and likely weighs less than the stock servo city which is cast aluminum base.
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Old Dec 18, 2015, 01:25 AM
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for a cabin stile boat contact William Robinson Jr, Builder(916) 485-3238 leenvi@surewest.net 4416 Elizabeth Ave. Sacremento CA 95821-4143 he builds a cabin stile deck to go on his hulls. My winch arm adjust 30 deg. each way so it can be set to ease the jib or main. I don't like to use a main trim, too many things to do, just keep my thumb on the sheets and move it up 1 or 2 clicks. yes my winch is home made, it has a stander size servo in it, Servo City has changed there robot zone to a much heaver one, that's why I make my own. I just rake my mast fore or aft, it works OK for me, I know a lot of sailors will disagree with that, but I use a keel stepped mast
John R.
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Old Dec 18, 2015, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin kavaney View Post
There is only one hole for the mast and that is at 28 inches exactly from the front of the bow. The hole is in the fiberglass of the hull. I am wondering if I should make up a mast step plate with a few different holes for optional placement sites for the mast ?? if so, what distances should I make such holes ?? any help appreciated.
When building up #2115, a Robinson Cabin Top, I used the mast location from the original plans on the AMYA website (28" from the bow), but used a home-made mast plate that had 6 holes spaced about 8 mm apart on center, with the center hole at the 28" mark. In sailing from drifting conditions in Sacramento up to the 20+ mph winds in San Francisco, I have used only locations forward of the plan location - usually just one or two holes (8mm & 16 mm). Fine tuning within each range can be done by angling the mast forward a bit using a bowsie on the forestay.

What I did find is that the plan location of the jib attachment on the foredeck (I use a rack) at 12" from the bow is really the aft most location. I had centered the holes at the plan location and had to move the rack forward so its aft most hole was at the plan location. Of course, this depends upon the cut of the sails.
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Old Dec 31, 2015, 05:42 AM
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loyalhanna hulls

Has anyone had recent experience with new SB hulls out of loyalhanna?
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Old Jan 03, 2016, 08:50 PM
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Santa Barbara Monday

Monday several Santa Barbaras will be on Spreckels Lake. Anyone in the area is invited to join us. No fees, no forms, no food or points. Just SBs getting a winter workout for no particular reason. See you on Spreckels Lake, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, 1-3.

Two SBs drifted on largely calm waters between occasional sprinkles. It was good to get out in the weather for an hour, nonetheless. The next winter SB gathering is Jan 18th. Please join us on Spreckels Lake, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, 1-3. We have 21 SBs in out boathouse, perhaps the largest collection of SBs in the country. How great would it be to get several more on the water this winter. We are nine months away from the SBOD Nationals at SFMYC in 2016. Lets float boats this winter!
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Old Jan 05, 2016, 09:19 PM
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Still scratching my head as to exactly where to place my servo city set up in Vortex 371.
If some kind soul could measure say from the bow and then from starboard the exact location of the center of the hub on the servo city that holds the long arm...that way I can figure out if I need to cut out the old Drone mounts or if I can use them as starting points for building a radio board.
any info would get me going after being stalled here for several months...
thanks....kevin
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Old Jan 05, 2016, 10:14 PM
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Servocity gearbox

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin kavaney View Post
Still scratching my head as to exactly where to place my servo city set up in Vortex 371.....kevin
Kevin, My Vortex is in the boathouse so I can't give you the dimensions you need right now. I'll send you the detentions you are asking for tomorrow. I've attached two interior picture of my ServoCity gearbox which I installed in my 1971 Vortex. I'll be happy to give you suggestions about how my vortex is setup. Steve and Ryan may weigh-in with suggestions. We each use slightly different setups. The all work very well. Pictures below give you one idea how to lay it out.
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Old Jan 06, 2016, 12:38 AM
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Kevin:

First, there is nothing magical about the placement of the winch or the radio board for that matter. Do what works for you with the materails you have.

When I replaced the bang-bang on #413 the original mounts were glued in with some form of epoxy that would not break out with reasonable force. I was afraid to "use a larger hammer" for fear of damaging the hull, so it cut them off as evenly as possible, put in those screw-in brass blind nuts used on furniture and bolted the board to that.

From there it was just moving the parts around on a 1:1 scale diagram of the area that could be used until I was happy with what I had. Then, just to be sure, I made a test board from light ply to check the placement of things. After noticing some issues with the angle of the sheet runs, I move things around just a little and made the final board from some nice birch ply, coated with epoxy and did the final mounting, I notice Jerry made his out of carbon fiber plate. I purposely used wood as I was concerned with the carbon shielding the Rx antenna that was on the radio board in some orientations of the boat. Later, I went to a Rx that uses satellites mounted up under the deck and that was no longer an issue.

On my new Robinson hull #2115, I purchased a radio board and mounts with the boat. They did all the development work so it fit the Robozone perfectly, but it did not have enough room for the additional servo I use -a total of three plus the gearbox - so I copied the outline of their board since I knew it worked well in other boats they have made and expanded it a little on the aft end to accommodate the other servo.

You can see in the pictures below the general location of things. Sorry for the shiny glare, but that is from a sheet of clear plastic that is under the winch arms and bull gear and is on top of everything else. It is supported in three places on wooden stand-offs topped with velcro with the plastic sheet having matching velcro patches in the corresponding locations. I did this since the boat leaked over the hatch rim pretty badly in a blow and I wanted to keep the water off the electronics. Since then I have added a polyvinyl "skirt" around the rim (that blue material around the hatch lip in the photo), and it is now dry as a bone. I have kept the plastic sheet there to make sure the lines don't snag on anything. The arm must be removed to remove the plastic and it is too cold in the garage tonight to do that for a photo.

As far as measurements, the center of the gearbox output shaft is 34" from the bow and 1" to starboard of the centerline. The jib side of the arm is 3" from center to tip and the main arm is 6" from center to tip. The shackles of the blocks on the arms are attached to SailsEct stainless eye bolts with the holes about 1/4" from the tips of the arms.

However, bear in mind that works on this boat which uses a main sheet post on the cabin doors. This changes the amount of sheet take up from one where the sheet exits on the doors. It also works for the boom attachment points on this boat. Vary those along the booms and the arm lengths will have to be adjusted. Justs be careful not to require them to be longer than the beam width of the hull at the level of the arms - remember the hull slants inward from gunnel to keelson.

In making the arms, I generally go through the same process as I did with the radio board; put on temporary boom attachment points in the best locations, estimate the sheet take up lengths, make a temporary arm and test it, and then make any adjustments if necessary before making the final nice looking arm.

Sorry this was so long, but I hope it helps.

Steve
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Old Jan 07, 2016, 09:57 AM
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thanks guys for getting me this info..appreciate your efforts in the cold....2 degrees here tomorrow !!!!
kevin
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 06:16 PM
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the re hab begins...

With lots of help from this forum...have started the re hab on Vortex # 383. Used the Dremel oscillating saw to remove the original mounting stud that had to go...Next was to fit the bulk heads that Foam Crusher sent me...given the ridge on the Vortex...these bulk heads lacked the room need to notch for this boat, but served as great patterns to cut new ones that had more "saddle room" to work this particular boat.
Will need to build two radio boards....I plan to keep the original keel mounting system as I dread trying to cut and re tap the Stainless steel bolt to hold the keel. These older boats only have one bolt so critical to not screw that one up. the rudder servo and possible Mast tension servo will go to the rear as will the battery....still working on Rx and where to mount that but will try to put it as high as possible in the cabin to avoid interference...
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 08:01 PM
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Kevin:

Don't forget while you are moving things around that you want the overall balance point to remain at 37" from the bow so the boat sits correctly in the water.
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Old Feb 26, 2016, 10:20 PM
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I've got a Vortex Ocean Racer that I love, but esthetically, I think the hatch setup really detracts from the lines of the boat. I've been thinking about cutting out the raised hatch edges and putting in some kind of flush hatch. I know I could make the kind of hatch that slides in to some rails on the side of the hatch opening, but I'm thinking about something that would be flush. maybe recessed with a rubber lip. Anyone done something such as this that could give me some direction?
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