Does the little one have another one inside?

next year I'm going to Australia, probably Melbourne, is it possible to travel by plane with the quadcopter? is there any problem to carry the LIPO batteries?? 1,2ghz and 2,4ghz are allowed frequencies in Australia?

Thanks

Originally Posted by wdelarme

That sounds like a great idea. Like I said I am not supplying the ground wire. the picture was more of a proof of concept. I was actually looking for a piece of braided flat copper but I haven't been able to find a small piece (low weight)

What you really NEED to be grounded to is the backplane of the GPS antenna itself. Going anywhere else might create a ground loop. Is there anyone with a wrecked GPS puck that they can open up and shoot pix of ?

you need to check with your carrier but heres what Qantas says

Portable electronic devices containing lithium or lithium ion cells or batteries and Spare lithium or lithium ion cells or batteries

•Spare Lithium ion batteries and cells with a Watt hour rating greater than 160Wh, are not permitted on an aircraft under any circumstances.
• Spare lithium ion batteries and cells with a Watt hour rating of between 100Wh and 160Wh are limited to two batteries per passenger. Batteries must have terminals insulated or protected to prevent short circuit and must be carried in cabin baggage only. – Operator approval is required for these prior to travel.
• Spare Lithium ion batteries and cells with a Watt hour rating or less than 100Wh have no limit to the number that can be carried, batteries must have terminals insulated or protected to prevent short circuit and must be carried in cabin baggage only
• Spare Lithium metal or Lithium alloy batteries with a lithium content of less than 2 grams have no limit to the number that can be carried, however, batteries must have terminals insulated or protected to prevent short circuit and must be carried in cabin baggage only.
• If batteries are installed in equipment such as laptop computers, camera, calculators etc – the above limits still apply, however they can be carried as checked baggage, provided the electronic device is protected from accidental activation.


Note: Conversion from Ah (Amp hours) to Wh is: Ah x Voltage = Wh.

sorry forgot
2.4 OK not sure about 1.2

Tx and Rx need C tick - but i'm not sure if anyone woulf check
Cheers
Joe

My 450 was flying great until I installed the GPS, Now it climbs when going forward in GPS at about a 10*angle, then looses altitude when flying backwards. I've tried nose heavy, perfect balance, tail heavy balance with same results. It will hover great even in heavy wind gusts. Any suggestions ??
oldgrandpa

Originally Posted by oldgrandpa

My 450 was flying great until I installed the GPS, Now it climbs when going forward in GPS at about a 10*angle, then looses altitude when flying backwards. I've tried nose heavy, perfect balance, tail heavy balance with same results. It will hover great even in heavy wind gusts. Any suggestions ??
oldgrandpa

Have you tired Calibrating the GPS/Compass?

I had a drift when switching into GPS mode but after i calibrated it if flew fine.

I also have noticed that if i take off and fly and switch to GPS straight away then it doesnt hold very well.
If i flyin Attitude mode for a short while then switch into GPS then i often find GPS holds better.
There maybe some strange auto trimming going on in there that the GPS requires.
Dunno but it works for me.

Ben

Originally Posted by EarthOrbiter

Does anyone have any experience using Alpha gel or Sorbothane mounts to lessen vibration transfer to a camera? A little research regarding such mounts along with balancing props is the way to go. Alpha gel is expensive.

Guys

You should be focusing on how to reduce the source of the vibrations as opposed to isolating the vibrations.
In fact i think this is easier than trying to find that Magic Foam/Gell/Rubber, whatever, that everyone seems to be looking for.

If you balance all your motors AND balance all your Props correctly then you may not even need to look for this magic VooDoo vibration isolating miracle!

I agree that sensitive electrnics such as cameras should be "soft" mounted with a some sort of foam but its there to protect the camera as opposed to isolate the vibrations.

Its pretty simple to get great results balancing motors these days as most of us have smartphones that can be used for vibration analysis.
Check out this simple video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Q_yigvysspo

Do that AND balance your props and you will find that you will have very little vibs left to isolate the camer a from.

Any resulting vibs in your airframe will probably be from the propwash over the arms.
This can be reduced with round arms as square ones create the most turbualnce.
Teardrop shaped arms would be best but very dificult to find.

Just my 2 cents!

Ben

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

Hey folks,

Just having a bit of grief getting my quad to yaw properly. Every time i yaw either way, once i release the yaw stick my quaqd blips with power and bounces up about a foot high. Sometimes when using the yaw control the quad climbs too.

I have tried little gain, and ive tried lots of gain and tried a few numbers in the middle and i just cant tune it to yaw nice and smooth.

Any tips i should try?

Try turning your Yaw gain down.

I get the same results if my Yaw gain is too high.

Multi Rotor Yaw control will never be like a Helicopter it will alwasy be a little mushy as we are varying the tourque as was described above.
Hence we are relying on the speed up and slow down of opposing motors and they can only speed up and slow down so fast without upsetting the balance of the rest of the flight controls.

I settle for a more relaxed yaw as i prefer the yaw not to upset the other controls.

Ben

I have been using this on my TBS Discovery. It works very well but very pricy.

http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Store...=Products8.htm

Use the green.

Agreed that props, motors, even badly machined prop adapters, and prop molds will make vibration.
With all the balancing I have found that flying against wind will induce vibration making jello affect on the cmos gopro. This may be due to how the frame is built.
Some 1/2 in Sorbothane (duro 30) will be tested soon.
It is hard to lift a 3.5 Lb ccd camera otherwise.
As much vibration dampening possibilities need examination.
From what I've researched even NASA uses Sorbothane for their cameras etc..

Originally Posted by SCVJeff

What you really NEED to be grounded to is the backplane of the GPS antenna itself. Going anywhere else might create a ground loop. Is there anyone with a wrecked GPS puck that they can open up and shoot pix of ?

Here's the inside of mine.

Update on my gps: I got a new one and this time I'm trying the flush mount. So far tests are promising. Testing in my backyard, I got full lock even with it right next to my Contour cam. That is without my AV Tx plugged in. When I plug that in it drops to 1 red blink, 1 green, which is pretty much what I got before with the stalk mount. Hopefully today I'll be able to test in an open area. I'm hoping I don't have to do any shielding or use ferrite chokes or any of that. With this same setup and the gps mounted on the stalk, I never had a problem getting full lock.

Hope you can find someone to share and split the costs with. OUCH!!!

Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed

I have been using this on my TBS Discovery. It works very well but very pricy.

http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Store...=Products8.htm

Use the green.

Originally Posted by wazzer

Have you tired Calibrating the GPS/Compass?

I had a drift when switching into GPS mode but after i calibrated it if flew fine.

I also have noticed that if i take off and fly and switch to GPS straight away then it doesnt hold very well.
If i flyin Attitude mode for a short while then switch into GPS then i often find GPS holds better.
There maybe some strange auto trimming going on in there that the GPS requires.
Dunno but it works for me.

Ben

Hi Ben, tried your method of taking off in Atti then changing to GPS, works better after flying about one minute in Atti. I had calibrated the compass twice. It will fly in a straight line & hover in a very small area (about 3 Ft.) I just need the GPS for the RTH since I can no longer chase these things around the field. Thanks for your help
oldgrandpa

Originally Posted by oldgrandpa

Hi Ben, tried your method of taking off in Atti then changing to GPS, works better after flying about one minute in Atti. I had calibrated the compass twice. It will fly in a straight line & hover in a very small area (about 3 Ft.) I just need the GPS for the RTH since I can no longer chase these things around the field. Thanks for your help
oldgrandpa

As I unerstand the NAZA, altitude has nothing to do with whether GPS is connected or not because the FC uses only the baro sensor in either case. So, position lock uses GPS for just two axis (left/right, for/aft) and the Baro for altitude. Also, what can affect altitude is sunlight (wierd, I know!) and there is a black tape fix for this (I taped both sides).

I'm sure someone here will correct me if I am mistaken here.
mark