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Old Oct 17, 2013, 10:23 PM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Installation components: what do I need to order?

I have some questions about this:

1. To install this, do I need to also get the Tarot DFC swashplate, or can I use the swash that came with my Tarot V450 Pro 2 V2 FBL?

2. The DFC swash also has two versions, "dual digit" (4 ball links) and with 2 ball links. So which one to get?

3. Is there any reason why the current locking collar (from V450 Pro V2 FBL) will not work?

Thank you for your time!
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 12:20 AM
as much as I can
beenflying's Avatar
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Joined Jan 2010
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I'm using both the standard and DFC swash plates with DFC and both work fine with high head speeds. Not sure about the locking collar.
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenflying View Post
I'm using both the standard and DFC swash plates with DFC and both work fine with high head speeds. Not sure about the locking collar.
How are the standard and DFC swash plates different?
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 01:30 AM
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beenflying's Avatar
NZ
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
How are the standard and DFC swash plates different?
With the standard swash the balls face outward. With the DFC they face backwards.

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Old Oct 18, 2013, 01:44 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Anyone have any clue why i had to add like -3 pitch so that my front and back flips responded equally? I can't really figure this out. Using a digital pitch gauge and setting the blade pitch to zero ends up with really fast front flips and back flips that basically become small loops, they are so slow. I've gone over all the FBL stuff on my microbeast a bunch of times with no change. The negative pitch has it flying perfectly. But the weird thing is it used to fly fine on zero pitch and nothing much has changed that i remember. Just a strange issue.
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 07:41 AM
just gotta mess with it!
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North West Louisiana
Joined Nov 2009
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When you have zero pitch at 50% collective, are you getting equal positive and negative pitch? The only thing I can think of is that your servo arms are out and you are getting some pitch differential. They would need to be sloping downwards at 50% collective to give you less negative pitch than positive.
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 09:04 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
When you have zero pitch at 50% collective, are you getting equal positive and negative pitch? The only thing I can think of is that your servo arms are out and you are getting some pitch differential. They would need to be sloping downwards at 50% collective to give you less negative pitch than positive.
Yes, at 50% collective and zero pitch i get equal pitch ranges. The thing that actually keyed me into adding negative pitch was when i did 12 / -18 pitch range. It made a slight difference, but still rotation speeds were vastly different. If the wind was at my back, a back flip is nearly impossible.

So i went ahead and added -1 at neutral collective and noticed a marked improvement in back flip rotation, but front flip was slowed down slightly. After incrementally adding negative pitch at neutral. I found that -3 was giving me balanced rotation rates forward and back.

I guess now i'll examine the servo arms and linkages a bit more. I think this might have just been an issue i never noticed before. Because not much has changed on the heli in a long time. Other than i have been flying bigger, higher quality machines lately. The 450 i have this head on is a V450D01 which has been completely overhauled. The only parts left on it that are still Walkera is the 3mm CF airframe and the rear belt drive PTO gearing and pulley. All the rest has been replaced with Tarot or Align parts. I am using savox servos and since this is a Walkera, they don't fit in there and line up perfectly. I've done what can be done about the link geometry, and it's very, very close to being right. But there is still some angle to the links instead of being straight up and down. I suppose this could be the cause and i just never realized what was happening, or something. At any rate it's flying fine like this and i can't find any slop on anything. So i'm just going to leave it i think.
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 11:12 AM
just gotta mess with it!
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North West Louisiana
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You've turned it into a great looking heli anyway!
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Old Oct 18, 2013, 10:55 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
You've turned it into a great looking heli anyway!
Thanks, it really does fly great too now that i got this issue fixed (or band-aided).


This rotor has been really reliable, steady and true. It crashes great too. I am fairly sure whatever the cause of this is, it likely resides within the heli, not the rotor head.
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Old Oct 20, 2013, 10:17 AM
Happy Easter! Happy Flying!
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jan 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Thanks, it really does fly great too now that i got this issue fixed (or band-aided).


This rotor has been really reliable, steady and true. It crashes great too. I am fairly sure whatever the cause of this is, it likely resides within the heli, not the rotor head.
Yes - could be link / servo geometry
- not being symmetrical about the centre-point...
- which means you could be getting more swash movement in the forward direction, compared to the backward direction.
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Old Oct 20, 2013, 10:34 AM
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United States, CA, Signal Hill
Joined Aug 2009
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the tarot split lock head unit so far has been a blast on the 500

i got another one for my 450 for 27 bucks its ready for maiden
jvc everio ex 210 color and details test sweet like candy bling baby trex rc helicopter (2 min 56 sec)
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Old Nov 24, 2013, 03:45 PM
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DFC head slop

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
Oh, it can "effectively reduce the shoot paddle probability"

Honestly, I don't see how this is any different than the straight-arm DFC design. JMO...
This isn't exactly the quote that fits my situation. I'm just ready to go back out to fly and I want to get this question in to you all.

I was at the field earlier and noticed a bit of slop when I tried to move the blade grips. I thought, "Wow, the dampers are worn already." I've only had about forty flights on this heli. So, I get home and start wrenching. I'm at a loss because I'm expecting rubber dampers like in my P.O.S. Blade 450.

I ended up finding out that in the 450 dfc head, at least mine with the plastic grips, the dampers are made of P.O.M. It's a kind of plastic. It's very hard and makes a clicking sound when dropped on glass. I though for certain it was anodized aluminum.

Anyhow, the dampers look pristine so I put everything back together. Luckily the instructions for the 450 come with a very nice exploded drawing. Unlike the Blade 450 which is impossible to distinguish a lot.

Well, now the slop is GONE!. So, why was the slop there in the first place? I don't remember hearing that "CRACK!" sound when I loosened the screws that hold the blade grips on. But I don't remember noticing anything odd either. Maybe they were backing out?

I guess it's the only logical answer Because now there is NO slop. Also, instead of trying to pop the ball links off I just unscrewed them from the swash. Yeah I'm not sure that was a good idea.

So I don't have any instant super glue around but I do have the blue thread locker. It did look like it was put together with the instant type but it's hard to say for sure. ( It's a trex 450 plus that comes assembled. Someday I'll actually build a heli from the ground up like the rest of you do.)

Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 25, 2013, 09:34 AM
asp
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Spain, CN, La Oliva
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lentar View Post
I have some questions about this:

1. To install this, do I need to also get the Tarot DFC swashplate, or can I use the swash that came with my Tarot V450 Pro 2 V2 FBL?

2. The DFC swash also has two versions, "dual digit" (4 ball links) and with 2 ball links. So which one to get?

3. Is there any reason why the current locking collar (from V450 Pro V2 FBL) will not work?

Thank you for your time!
My tarot 450 pro v2 flies perfectly with the tarot dfc, original swash and locking collar.
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Old Dec 27, 2013, 02:00 PM
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Blue Bell, PA USA
Joined Sep 2008
906 Posts
What is the measurement of the 450 DFC arm?

Finally have a little bit of time to work on my Tarot 450 PRO... anyone know what the measurement the DFC arms should be?

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Old Dec 27, 2013, 02:50 PM
just gotta mess with it!
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North West Louisiana
Joined Nov 2009
4,559 Posts
Not critical

They should both measure the same, but other than that, it doesn't really matter. I would start with them set to about the middle of their range, and then check that you can get your required pitch range. If you're short of low end pitch, you need to raise the swash a bit by shortening them and lengthening the servo to swash links, and vice versa if you're short of top end pitch.
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