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Old Sep 02, 2012, 06:43 PM
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Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jul 2012
107 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by e_g_loco View Post
Hello,

I also have a question. I'm searching bixler FPV topics in this forum for a long time but I couldn't come up with motor / esc combination recommandations or examples from HK. What did you use?

Thanks
I'm planning on using the stock motor to start off with. According to the Bixler mods thread, it can make over 800 grams of thrust on a 3-cell battery using 6x4 prop, while only drawing about 12 amps. That should be heaps for my needs.

I have a spare 30A ESC lying around I'm planning to use, since the kit doesn't include one.

If you're looking for a motor/ESC combo that has a bit of punch, people seem to be having a lot of success with the Turnigy 2826 2200kv motor (link) and the Turnigy Plush 30A ESC (link)

I've been using that same motor on my ME-163 Komet and it's been great. If you want even more power, the motor can handle a 4-cell battery and the performance is spectacular (but you'll need a larger ESC to handle the increased power).
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jul 2012
107 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brillobrother View Post
hey everyone!
I got another question. I just got the new turnigy 9x v2 2.4ghz transmitter. I got everything connected to the receiver and all my rudder, elevator, pan, tilt and what not are All working fine. however, when I move the left stick up its suppose to make the motor spin/ work.. but its not. I have an FPV system set up. Ive got the motor connected to an ESC ( it has a BEC) connected to the servo and everything is connected to the correct channel. Why is my motor not working when I move the throttle up? If anyone can be of assistance that would be great!!
Thanks!
Brillobrother
It's hard to know exactly how you have everything wired up and how the radio is programmed, so it could be a couple things.

1. Check your wiring; you should have all of the following connections.
- main battery connected to ESC (2 wires)
- motor connected to ESC (3 wires)
- ESC plugged into radio receiver in the correct channel, with the correct polarity

2. Check your radio programming.
I forget what the stock Turnigy firmware is like, but make sure it's programmed to the correct channel and has a 0-100% range.

3. Test your setup
- Remove the propellor from the motor, so you can't do any damage to anything if it starts unexpectedly.
- Ensure your transmitter is turned on first, and the correct model is selected.
- Plug in your ESC - you should see a light come on in the receiver and any connected servos should twitch.
- Your motor should make a few beeping tones.
- Increase the throttle - the motor should start turning. If it just keeps beeping, your throttle channel might be reversed. You need to reverse the throttle direction in the radio.

If you don't get any sounds from the motor, your wiring is wrong somewhere. Double-check all your electrical connections. You could even try plugging your ESC into a different channel (but be ready to unplug the battery) to see if it makes a difference.

If you still can't get any noise or response from the motor, either the ESC or the motor is probably faulty.

4. Calibrate your ESC.
To ensure you get a good gradual response from your motor, you need to tell the ESC where zero and full throttle are. The process can be a little different for each ESC type, but it usually goes like this:
- remove prop
- turn radio on
- move throttle stick to 100%
- plug in battery
- your motor should make the usual start-up noise, and then after a short pause, make another couple longer tones.
- during the longer tones, move the throttle stick on the radio to zero.
- you should hear a confirmation tone from the ESC
Your ESC is now calibrated to your radio. Test out the throttle range - moving the stick up slightly should start the motor spinning slowly, and it continue to increase speed evenly up to full speed when the stick is all the way up.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 10:10 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
16 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by klaw81 View Post
It's hard to know exactly how you have everything wired up and how the radio is programmed, so it could be a couple things.

1. Check your wiring; you should have all of the following connections.
- main battery connected to ESC (2 wires)
- motor connected to ESC (3 wires)
- ESC plugged into radio receiver in the correct channel, with the correct polarity

2. Check your radio programming.
I forget what the stock Turnigy firmware is like, but make sure it's programmed to the correct channel and has a 0-100% range.

3. Test your setup
- Remove the propellor from the motor, so you can't do any damage to anything if it starts unexpectedly.
- Ensure your transmitter is turned on first, and the correct model is selected.
- Plug in your ESC - you should see a light come on in the receiver and any connected servos should twitch.
- Your motor should make a few beeping tones.
- Increase the throttle - the motor should start turning. If it just keeps beeping, your throttle channel might be reversed. You need to reverse the throttle direction in the radio.

If you don't get any sounds from the motor, your wiring is wrong somewhere. Double-check all your electrical connections. You could even try plugging your ESC into a different channel (but be ready to unplug the battery) to see if it makes a difference.

If you still can't get any noise or response from the motor, either the ESC or the motor is probably faulty.

4. Calibrate your ESC.
To ensure you get a good gradual response from your motor, you need to tell the ESC where zero and full throttle are. The process can be a little different for each ESC type, but it usually goes like this:
- remove prop
- turn radio on
- move throttle stick to 100%
- plug in battery
- your motor should make the usual start-up noise, and then after a short pause, make another couple longer tones.
- during the longer tones, move the throttle stick on the radio to zero.
- you should hear a confirmation tone from the ESC
Your ESC is now calibrated to your radio. Test out the throttle range - moving the stick up slightly should start the motor spinning slowly, and it continue to increase speed evenly up to full speed when the stick is all the way up.
Thanks for the advice! And i dont know if this will affect the connections but I have a cyclops Nova osd and the place to plug in the servo wires the in aliron in, elevator in, aliron out, elevator out, display, Aux 1, Aux 2.. I dont see any place for a throttle.. or rudder.. Im getting confused here
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 11:57 PM
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Australia, QLD, Toowoomba
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillobrother View Post
Thanks for the advice! And i dont know if this will affect the connections but I have a cyclops Nova osd and the place to plug in the servo wires the in aliron in, elevator in, aliron out, elevator out, display, Aux 1, Aux 2.. I dont see any place for a throttle.. or rudder.. Im getting confused here
Yes, the OSD will affect your connections.

The OSD needs to go in between your receiver and your servos. Plug your aileron and elevator servo leads into the OSD (using the corresponding "out" plugs for those controls) and then connect your receiver's channels for those controls into the OSD's "in" plugs.

For instance, the leads from your aileron servos should connect to the "aileron out" port of the OSD, and then you need another servo lead that goes from the "aileron in" port of your OSD to the aileron channel on your receiver.

If you want to be able to toggle flight modes and display modes, you will have to connect another 2 spare channels from your receiver to the OSD to trigger these modes. You will also have to program the radio to correctly operate these channels.

Note: only your elevator and ailerons are required to be connected to the OSD - this gives the OSD sufficient control of the aircraft to stabilise and return to home. Your throttle and rudder can remain connected directly to the receiver, you will always be operating them manually.

You might be better off starting your flight testing without the OSD connected, since it makes things lots more complicated. At very least, you should be doing some basic line-of-sight flying with the aircraft before attempting to use the FPV system at all.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 12:12 AM
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Mt Tamborine, Queensland, Australia
Joined May 2008
749 Posts
Good comments. I've also found that I've had to adjust the throttle trim to a lower amount of throttle at the closed throttle position to get the speed controller to initially arm itself. Speed controllers often must detect that there is no throttle at all in order to arm on power up.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 07:32 PM
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Joined Dec 2004
47 Posts
Klaw81,

So sorry to see your thread get derailed. I would like to know more about your setup of the Bixler. Please try and get back on track with original thread.
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