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Old Mar 19, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Also If you push both sticks on your tx in or out you will induce a uncontrolled spin and can flip the heli upside down. Since it is not a collective pitch helicopter there is no way to regain control of the heli once you do this. Has anyone else tried this?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 01:15 PM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis View Post
Russ, it is hit and miss with the Dx6i. Some controllers work and some have serious throttle issues. The only way you will know is to try it.
Thanks LUV!

P.S. I just got a new flybar and a metal head for top blades as a mini upgrade...is it worth doing the lower blades to metal also? ...Swash plate metal?
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 06:40 PM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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If something in this heli hobby is "worth it" greatly depends on how you define "worth" for yourself.

If you only look at the financial impact, its not really worth it ... only in the really long run.
If you include other factors than money, then things change pretty quick.

In my eyes the metal lower head as well as the metal swash are worth it. But again, that is just based on my personal definitions of "worth"
(I value a swash that is almost certain to never separate or the fact that I can place my lower rotor head anywhere I want along the shaft, as it will not need the guide holes. It also has longer guide pins for the swash links than a stock lower rotor head. It is just all pretty "subjective" ... )
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 10:39 PM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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I'm pretty lucky not to have to be overly concerned about cost. I meant worth it from a flying standpoint. Since you did it...I think I have my answer.

thanks!
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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:18 PM
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Yes. The metal swash is not only worth it, it is almost a necessity. Plus if they are ever available again I reccommend the Skytec swash over all of them. Simply an astoundingly great example of machining and workmanship. And dollar for dollar not much more if any than the equivelent Microheli, or eflite swash.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 07:26 AM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Flying again

I got my CX2 flying again last night. I replaced the upper blade rod with metal head (my LHS out of metal for lower and swash plate) and got a new set of blades installed and FINALLY got my DX6i to bind with it. I also put on the metal cooling fins on the motors to dissipate the heat better.

I got it to almost hover but I'm getting a bucking on the tail that I assume is the gyro setting in the TX, after reading here, so I turned off that setting on my TX but I haven't gotten to fly it since inhibiting that setting.

I used HELI setup with all throws to 100%...maybe 125 when I get it all working right. I do have about 20% expo on "rudder" to calm my nervous hands.

I have the 4-in-1 rx in the CX2...is there a manual setting on it to calm the gyro too?

Russ
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:00 AM
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Unless I'm wrong, the gyro settings in the DX6i are for an external gyro. The 4-in-1 in a stock set up is what you'll have to mess with to get the internal gyro to work right. It sounds as if you have tail wag and that is controlled by the gain pot on the 4-in-1. The gyro sounds as if it's too sensitive and is picking up an imperfection in the drive line, which isn't too unusual. By imperfection, I mean it just doesn't take much before the gyro reacts.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:49 AM
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Got it, thanks KJ.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 09:54 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Russ, do you have the EFLH1024 4in1 RX by any chance? I have this installed in my ESky Lama V4 and bound to my DX6i

Mike.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 10:56 AM
Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Russ, do you have the EFLH1024 4in1 RX by any chance? I have this installed in my ESky Lama V4 and bound to my DX6i

Mike.
I'm not sure about the part number but yes, it is the 4-in-1 stock rx/gyro that came with my BCX2. When I was binding I noted the 4in1 on the unit.
I bought it more than 2 years ago I think.

P.S. Now, keep in mind I'm a heli novice...when I engage the "Throttle Hold" on the DX6i...the throttle just dies. It should be named the throttle kill. I would love to be able to hold the throttle at a preset level. Is there some trick to making this work?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 11:11 AM
OlliW
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.when I engage the "Throttle Hold" on the DX6i...the throttle just dies. It should be named the throttle kill. I would love to be able to hold the throttle at a preset level. Is there some trick to making this work?
in principle something like that can be done using the available mixers in the Dx6i creatively... but this doesn't make any sense. You simply will have to learn to keep your heli at a certain height by continuously controlling the throttle stick. In contrast to the rudder/yaw/tail, which is stabilized by some electronics, i.e., the gyro, there is no such electronics for the throttle to hold the level (such electronics is existing, but not for your coax). So, that "Throttle Hold" kills throttle is in fact the desired function.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Not only what OlliW just said but there is a thing I call throttle drift. As the battery wears down the pilot has to proportionally increase the throttle to offset the voltage drop consistantly or within a minute or so the heli is sitting close to or already on the ground. You are better off using the upper control switch on the left top of your Dx6i, and setting a flat throttle curve at lets say 65% or whatever keeps your heli up in the air in idle 2 or 3 position. Even so it wont stay up that long.

You really want to leave the throttle hold alone so you can safely move your heli, adjust things, and flip it in a hurry during crash or emergancy situations to keep from stripping your gears or such.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Thanks again LUV.

I turned down the gain on the ESC last night and it worked great...the bucking has stopped. I was able to hover pretty well and get it around the room and back on the table in one piece..success!

I noticed on the ESC that there is another pot for "proportional"...what does that do?

Also I had to put my "rudder" control trim tab all the way to one side to get it to not continually turn during flight and let it hover...well, not exactly true, I still had to hold a little pressure to keep it straight. Is there some adjustment I could make to get it closer to center?

Thanks for all of the help...much appreciated!

What's the biggest battery that can practically be used with the CX2? I'm tempted to put two 800's together on this thing for some decent practice time.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 08:31 AM
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What you're calling the ESC is the 4-in-1. It has built in ESC's, a gyro and a receiver all built into one unit - just for clarification. You do not want to put two batteries together because that would up the weight. They wouldn't fit in the battery tray either. Use one until the heli is looking tired. Land it and let it cool for a while. Thn put in the second battery and have at it again. FWIW, the heat sinks/ cooling fins don't do anything spectacular to cool the motors. What DID make a big difference in cooling were the Aero-Nutz motors. They have big colling vents in the motor can, but for some asinine reason, the makers aren't cooperating with dealers and we can't seem to get them anymore. Thus, the talk of going brushless.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGS2010 View Post
Thanks again LUV.

I turned down the gain on the ESC last night and it worked great...the bucking has stopped. I was able to hover pretty well and get it around the room and back on the table in one piece..success!

I noticed on the ESC that there is another pot for "proportional"...what does that do?

Also I had to put my "rudder" control trim tab all the way to one side to get it to not continually turn during flight and let it hover...well, not exactly true, I still had to hold a little pressure to keep it straight. Is there some adjustment I could make to get it closer to center?

Thanks for all of the help...much appreciated!

What's the biggest battery that can practically be used with the CX2? I'm tempted to put two 800's together on this thing for some decent practice time.
Yes, you need to adjust your "proportional" pot. Check out page 20 here (pdf): http://files.hapo-trade.at/pdf/Blade_CX2_Manual.pdf

It pictures the 3in1 but, it's the same principal as the 4in1. It's a good idea to make a small mark on the present setting in case you need to go back. Adjust in very small increments (usually the thickness of the flat head screwdriver you are using, 1/64"/1/32") and don't forget to power down between each adjustment. And of course you want to re-center the "yaw trim" before starting.

Mike.
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