I think the 21 gives up at 1000...It can't operate at that level. But it wouldn't cause the start of the problem.

[QUOTE=PMRfly;20962651]guys, question on the ubec front...

i've tried UBEC's many times but its always interfered with my video signal (need to put in a power clean up board i am told...)


You do have some ferrite rings on the OUT cable????

[QUOTE=muduck;20962794]

Originally Posted by PMRfly

guys, question on the ubec front...

i've tried UBEC's many times but its always interfered with my video signal (need to put in a power clean up board i am told...)


You do have some ferrite rings on the OUT cable????

yeah tried ferrite, but doesnt do much if anything.. ;-(

Originally Posted by PMRfly

ok then i need a favour... can you go outside and encourage the rain to go south for the weekend?

Don't do that, im in Tassie, and am going away for weekend

Nah, mine are RC305 and HK does state that their operating voltage are 5v so I'm guessing when we put 12v into them it just turns it into heat.

Originally Posted by Gimmer

I hope not, I use 2s as well. From HK web site Rc305 - Receiver operating voltage: 5VDC. I would be surprised if using a 2s made any difference other than less heat.

Whats the lowest voltage a RC305 can reliably run down to? I haven't been letting my 2S get too low, don't want it to stop mid-flight but im sure it can go down a fair amount below the 7.4V terminal voltage of the battery.
It sure does run a lot cooler on 2S vs 3S, barely even warm at all after use as long as the suns not belting down on it.

Originally Posted by Teamsherman

Nah, mine are RC305 and HK does state that their operating voltage are 5v so I'm guessing when we put 12v into them it just turns it into heat.

I've done a fair amount of research into this topic re 305 vRX voltage pre my first flight FPV. The unit is able to operate with 2 cell LiPo quite comfortably. The regulator actually has to drop the voltage to 3.7v for the vTX units internal operation. There is a margin of voltage loss obviously involved here, but the starting volts of 12v is very excessive and generates a lot of heat, thus causing some failures. Guys have tested the minimum stable RX starting voltage but I can't remember exactly what that was. They did confirm that 2 cell LiPo is the go in preference to 3 cell which caused a few failures due to 'melt down'.

Which is why I use 7.4v 4000mh, this is enough to run the RX/Goggles for many many hours

If HK states 5v minimum, I'd say that's about on the money from what I know

Originally Posted by omelette

Was thinking the FY21AP chucked a hissy fit, so it was discussed briefly in that thread, the GPS clock stopped exactly the moment she went haywire and also lost throttle. So I'm now thinking it maybe the cheap HK Ubec I was running couldn't keep up with the show.

Peril, I thought I'd broken a wing but I was still moving every thing just to get some sort of reaction, even full throttle which didn't work because I can't hear it on the gopro footage.

Here is a better crash clip showing the OSD in better detail.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaGXQ...eature=related

omelette,

I've been looking back at your footage. i am very sure that you and I have the same problem with FY21 and or ESC issues effecting FY21. My "brown out" vid below looks very similar to yours. Unfortunately i don't have telem of the incident on this vid, as this vid was predominantly recorded on the cannon a2200, but i am going to dig out the GS footage/recordings to see what the telem says.

FPV'n Around - Brown Out (4 min 6 sec)

Only diff i can see is you were flying in faf mode, i was flying in RC mode. I still get occasional b/o's today, but how i have resolved it (very much a short term solution) is load f/s on the radio so it switches plane to rth mode on instance of b/o. this results in (on instance of b/o) a very quick movement from rc mode to rth mode for half a second while it b/o's and then switches back to rc mode when it regains half a second later. Obviously this is a short term solution and i'm still trying to work things out to 'fix things'.

IF i dont have f/s on the futaba set to rth mode with 60% thrott, the plane dives for the ground. This is what happened in the brown out vid and another instance. luckily the plane survived in the b/o vid, but in the other instance, it died a horrible death...

when i first had this problem i went about replacing all of my gear piece by piece to find the problem. i replaced everything and i mean everything accept the 21. ESC, Servo's, batteries, rc radios, rc rx's, vrx's, tx'x, LRS etc etc etc. Note, i have two combo set's of 21/117's on two diff skywalkers and the problem occurred on both sets.

My set up is here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=352875
(half way down the page)

Seems we share the problem... i wonder how many others there are...

LOST...... Big Red thing that sits in the Sky. They call it " SUN "

FOUND...... Plenty of WATER. Will swap it for the SUN if you find it.

On a lighter note : I'v got nothing

Bx

Originally Posted by Boxhead

LOST...... Big Red thing that sits in the Sky. They call it " SUN "

FOUND...... Plenty of WATER. Will swap it for the SUN if you find it.

On a lighter note : I'v got nothing

Bx

Ill swap either of those for the WIND, I have plenty of that here

Originally Posted by PMRfly

omelette,

I've been looking back at your footage. i am very sure that you and I have the same problem with FY21 and or ESC issues effecting FY21. My "brown out" vid below looks very similar to yours. Unfortunately i don't have telem of the incident on this vid, as this vid was predominantly recorded on the cannon a2200, but i am going to dig out the GS footage/recordings to see what the telem says.

https://vimeo.com/32728763

Only diff i can see is you were flying in faf mode, i was flying in RC mode. I still get occasional b/o's today, but how i have resolved it (very much a short term solution) is load f/s on the radio so it switches plane to rth mode on instance of b/o. this results in (on instance of b/o) a very quick movement from rc mode to rth mode for half a second while it b/o's and then switches back to rc mode when it regains half a second later. Obviously this is a short term solution and i'm still trying to work things out to 'fix things'.

IF i dont have f/s on the futaba set to rth mode with 60% thrott, the plane dives for the ground. This is what happened in the brown out vid and another instance. luckily the plane survived in the b/o vid, but in the other instance, it died a horrible death...

when i first had this problem i went about replacing all of my gear piece by piece to find the problem. i replaced everything and i mean everything accept the 21. ESC, Servo's, batteries, rc radios, rc rx's, vrx's, tx'x, LRS etc etc etc. Note, i have two combo set's of 21/117's on two diff skywalkers and the problem occurred on both sets.

My set up is here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=352875
(half way down the page)

Seems we share the problem... i wonder how many others there are...

EDIT: I wrote the following after reading that you only mentioned the Turnigy ESC in your initial listing and no extra UBEC. But you did mention recently that you are using a 15amp UBEC so the following does not apply to you.

One common factor are the 3amp BECs and is yours any good? Also, is that enough for all that gear? We assume they are good but the tests that have been done have shown some are no good. Like I said recently I will only be using these 10amp UBECs in future (unless they are proven to have problems but I do not think so):
http://www.wiredrc.com.au/shop/Speed.../prod_695.html

You may be using UHF radios but if using Spektrum DMS2 then there is another problem that you have to pay extra attention to like voltage.

Originally Posted by sammyc

Ill swap either of those for the WIND, I have plenty of that here

Ok i'll take your WIND if you take my TIRED.

Originally Posted by narcas

Ok i'll take your WIND if you take my TIRED.

Ive got enough of that, im TIRED of the WIND lol

Originally Posted by Firepower

EDIT: I wrote the following after reading that you only mentioned the Turnigy ESC in your initial listing and no extra UBEC. But you did mention recently that you are using a 15amp UBEC so the following does not apply to you.

One common factor are the 3amp BECs and is yours any good? Also, is that enough for all that gear? We assume they are good but the tests that have been done have shown some are no good. Like I said recently I will only be using these 10amp UBECs in future (unless they are proven to have problems but I do not think so):
http://www.wiredrc.com.au/shop/Speed.../prod_695.html

You may be using UHF radios but if using Spektrum DMS2 then there is another problem that you have to pay extra attention to like voltage.

no, i'm not using a sep ubec atm, due to noise on the video signal that it produced. i need to work out what my strategy is to re-introduce a separate ubec... i think i might have to just use a completely separate battery for the ubec, as every ubec i have used has too much interference on the vid signal..

oh and yes, i'm using uhf...

Im using a UBEC off the balance plug on my main flight battery Pete, and as yet in close at Hammo i had no interference from it, but i guess i'll find out properly this Saturday when we push them out a little further than possible at Hammo.