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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:13 PM
No Plane - No Gain
Platteville, CO
Joined Jan 2005
1,773 Posts
Building a Bee - Suggestions?

After much friendly advice from the locals, I have purchased a WindRider Bee to be used as my next combat wing.

I'm going to try adding some Goop to this wing, and I think I've got the right stuff.
1 Large tube of Marine Goop (Lowes)
1 Can of Goo Gone (tolulene and xylene) to be used as a thinner.

Should the Goop be thinned to the consistency of epoxy? Thinner? Thicker?

I think I heard the procedure is basically,

-Strapping tape,
-Goop
-Super 77
-Covering
-Goop

Sound right?

Thanks!
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:17 PM
Mr. Innocent's Avatar
Oceanside CA
Joined Dec 2004
4,046 Posts
The goop should be thinned to the consistency of warm syrup.
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:22 PM
Mr. Innocent's Avatar
Oceanside CA
Joined Dec 2004
4,046 Posts
-goop
This way the strapping tape bonds with the goop&epp
-strapping tape
-goop
-3m 77
-covering
-goop
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:30 PM
plane obsessed
Cody WIlson's Avatar
Denver, CO.
Joined Nov 2003
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Congrats Tom! I make mine a little thinner than honey and use a sponge-brush to spread it. It you get a dry run or somehting you can wip it away with some goof off.

Before you cover it wipe it down w/ some goof off- get rid of anything that will impede *bonding* with the covering. I'm sure Ian told ya, set the CG 1 full inch behind recomended CG and tune your elevator function down. That plane is gonna haul butt! You are going to freak out the first ime you fly it-
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:32 PM
Mr. Innocent's Avatar
Oceanside CA
Joined Dec 2004
4,046 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cody WIlson
Congrats Tom! I make mine a little thinner than honey and use a sponge-brush to spread it. It you get a dry run or somehting you can wip it away with some goof off.

Before you cover it wipe it down w/ some goof off- get rid of anything that will impede *bonding* with the covering. I'm sure Ian told ya, set the CG 1 full inch behind recomended CG and tune your elevator function down. That plane is gonna haul butt! You are going to freak out the first ime you fly it-
I've never flown a bee like that, doesn't it tuck?
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:38 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
28,380 Posts
For all the new Bee owners/builders, here's my usual build layup.
Tape the wing halves together to original specs.
If you've got em, install ribbon spars top and bottom (tape em on in a curve,
cut a slit and press the rectangular carbon rods into the foam edgewise,
make absolutely sure the wing is straight and warp free, then CA into place).

Install servos and radio gear, and make foam or coro covers.
Oh, I pot the servos too.. epoxy and micro balloons, smeared into
servo cutouts, then servos pressed into place inside a plastic sandwich
bag.. Then after about 10-15 minutes, pull servos and bag out.
A little while later, reinstall servo and use a dab of hot melt glue or
Goop on the edges (not the flat bottom) to hold them in place.
Tape to original spec with the supplied 3 inch wide strapping tape.
Add a 1 inch wide strip of double direction tape fiber tape over the
leading edge and iron it smooth.
Then I do a full layer of thinned Goop top and bottom of the entire wing
at the same time. (not as impossible as it sounds.. ).
Let cure for about an hour or two, then cover bottom and top of wing
with Ultracote. (I don't use 3M Super 77)
Iron the Ultracote smooth.
Cover elevons with 3M clear tape, then tape to wing.
Add trim as appropriate.
Install horns and pushrods.
Then finish with 2-3 coats of thinned Goop on the leading edge and tips
and let cure a day.
Recommended CG is 7 1/4 inches and it'll fly fine there, but most of us
fly em at about an inch behind that. between 8 1/4 and 8 1/2
and just use lower elevator rates.

Built to spec you can do it in half an afternoon. Built my way, add a couple
hours.

My layup weighs between 17.5 and 18oz all up and it's stiff as a board
and fast as hell. Oh.. I also often replace the elevons with even heavier
stronger stock, but that's just for handling brutal combat. The
stock tapered elevon stock is pretty good.

ian
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Cody WIlson's Avatar
Denver, CO.
Joined Nov 2003
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http://www.acp-composites.com/mailing.htm

I go for the .36 mm X 48" carbon rods http://www.deltronix.net/cgi/acp_display.exe.
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:41 PM
plane obsessed
Cody WIlson's Avatar
Denver, CO.
Joined Nov 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Innocent
I've never flown a bee like that, doesn't it tuck?
Nope
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Old Sep 25, 2005, 10:51 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
28,380 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Innocent
I've never flown a bee like that, doesn't it tuck?
Nope. The recommended CG is the kind of thing you can use with a cheap
2-3 channel AM or FM Tx with elevator throws at 100% and it'll
fly just fine. Better than most even.
But push the CG back a little over an inch, reduce the elevator rates
to about 25-40% (depends on a few things), and the Bee is a *rocket*, and
it bangs turns really hard without losing energy. The Bee's planform has
less sweep than most other combat wings (Boomerang is a possible
exception) which helps it with speed and energy retention.

ian
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 06:37 AM
antipodean recalcitrant
AntonL's Avatar
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Joined Feb 2004
3,171 Posts
Ian - thanks for posting this info; great timing, as I have a Bee on the bench right now (my first) and this saves me from having to go to the strenuous effort of using the search function. I've only just joined the wing panels and am about to launch into the next steps. Just wondering how you run your linkages. It looks like you are using the stock servo bays (with standard size servos?) but these are obviously not angled at 90 deg. to the elevons. Do you run straight rods on top of the wing or do you use buried pushrods in sleeves?

Anton
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 06:41 AM
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AntonL's Avatar
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Joined Feb 2004
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Two other quick questions: Do you sand off any of the mold bumps and do you use a central fin (+ if so, what attachment method is working best)?

Thanks
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 07:24 AM
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nator_au's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Kempsey
Joined Dec 2004
1,808 Posts
A very timely question Anton, as i am about to strip and recover mine, and am going to do a centre fin.

For those of us who have lost the instructions, setting the CG back 1 inch would make it ? what ? from the nose?

CHeers.
Brett
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 07:51 AM
No Plane - No Gain
Platteville, CO
Joined Jan 2005
1,773 Posts
Sounds like I need to go in search of some carbon ribbon spars. What are the chances of finding them at an LHS?

Oh well, I'll be waiting for an Rx and a new battery pack also. So much for slapping her together in the next day or two.

Do folks typically leave a hinged hatch to get to the charging jack/battery/Rx or just wire something external to be battered?
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 08:39 AM
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Rurik's Avatar
Colorado
Joined Jul 2005
5 Posts
TomO,
I recently purchased carbon ribbons at HobbyTown USA in Westminster and just saw a full stock of them at Colpar in Aurora. I built a Bee a few weeks ago and used PU glue on my spars, but would use CA next time - less hassle.
The plastic control hardware with my Bee was very cheap. The clevises had hair-line cracks and the control horns were very flimsy. I'd recommend metal clevises and new control horns. These will require new control rods because the ones with the Bee are an unusual size (metric threads with non-standard diameter - 2.75mm?) I made new ones
I left the whole radio bay hatched. Here are some pictures. You can see the hatched radio bay. I just tape it down before flying.
Good luck. Looking forward to flying with you.
Rurik
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Old Sep 26, 2005, 08:39 AM
Suspended Account
Joined May 2000
8,535 Posts
I burried a normal on/off charge switch in mine, so there is acess from the top. About 1/4 inch down into the foam is the switch, and just tuck the charge lead in there when not being used.

I didn't do the ribbon spar thing in mine, and it still holds up pretty good. Last time I was up on Zion I was flying with Dave, and I went to do some of that frontsize DS stuff, came in too high, hit in the bushes above that little cliff, and it stuck in there good, when I got up there, the whole plane was bent in a big U shape. I got it free and it went back into shape, nothing broke, and kept flying it. Very very durable.
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