Can someone explain a little more the benefit and/or drawback of setting fixed id? For instance, will it only affect the current model in memory, or also other models set in memory?

Originally Posted by SoloProFan

Can someone explain a little more the benefit and/or drawback of setting fixed id? For instance, will it only affect the current model in memory, or also other models set in memory?

Ii you are ever happen to flight with other walkera owners, this comes quite handy. Omce i bound my tx to my buddys mini, while he was tinkering with it. Well, he got little scared. Also the binding seems to happen much faster now too. And you don't have to turn on the radio and rush to plug in the batt. The mini will bind anytime as long as the radio is on. I think the id is model specific, but i might be woing on this one.

My rx screws have strippd. Had to drill them out. Anyone know where or what comes with screws to replace, besides buying a new rx? Atm ive had to hot glue it, but its a bit wobbly and is affecting the tail big time!

Originally Posted by Skovoroda

Ii you are ever happen to flight with other walkera owners, this comes quite handy. Omce i bound my tx to my buddys mini, while he was tinkering with it. Well, he got little scared. Also the binding seems to happen much faster now too. And you don't have to turn on the radio and rush to plug in the batt. The mini will bind anytime as long as the radio is on. I think the id is model specific, but i might be woing on this one.

Seems like it only has benefits then. Or are there also drawbacks? I keep getting quite some results of people having to clear a fixed id for some reason to be able to fly again. What about that?

I use fixed id with my brushless. Binds instantly

Originally Posted by Xermalk

Ill likely be doing the server saver on my MiniCP today (tx arriving tomorrow), and i'm wondering if it needs to be done to all servos? i can access 2 of them without removing anything else, but the pitch servo will require that i remove the rx board.

Also, i don't have any washers lying around that fits so ill use shrink tubing, just not sure how well it will hold the arm together.
The area it can tighten is very small, (Genius servo arms looks like they have a mutch larger area to put a washer/shrink tube on).

Ill also be fixing the rx coil & Battery/rx antenna wires with some hot glue. As they look somewhat exposed.

I'd do all 3 Servo Savers. Having to remove and re-install the RX once is a small price to pay for not having to remove and replace the front Servo (which would also require to remove and re-install the RX) many times.

I think the best way to shield and prevent damage to the Coil is one of the RX Saver mods which help prevent the Canopy from tilting upward so easily.

Hey guys, does anyone know if c05m fits well with stock mini cp gear and 8t pinion? I've read that servo clearance is tight, but workable.

Originally Posted by Skovoroda

Hey guys, does anyone know if c05m fits well with stock mini cp gear and 8t pinion? I've read that servo clearance is tight, but workable.

It fits with a clearance of about 0.5mm. Looking into a light you can see the motor is not touching the servo.

Originally Posted by sbstnp

It fits with a clearance of about 0.5mm. Looking into a light you can see the motor is not touching the servo.

Cool, thanks. Btw, there is a new c05m out, suppose to be 13500kv. I think I'm gonna give it a try.

What could case very short flight times on a mini cp?

Im getting ~2m idle up/hovering @ 70-50-70 throttle curve with the stock batterys. And 3 minutes with the Turnigy 300 mAh ones.

Problem kindof found, i now have 5 minutes idle up on the turnigy's. i was only daining the batterys to 3.95v before according to my voltmeter, so i compensated for the sensor measurments and I'm now draining them to 3.75.

Still not near the 6-7 minutes sports flights thats been reported in this thread.

Originally Posted by Xermalk

What could case very short flight times on a mini cp?

Im getting ~2m idle up/hovering @ 70-50-70 throttle curve with the stock batterys. And 3 minutes with the Turnigy 300 mAh ones.

Problem kindof found, i now have 5 minutes idle up on the turnigy's. i was only daining the batterys to 3.95v before according to my voltmeter, so i compensated for the sensor measurments and I'm now draining them to 3.75.

Still not near the 6-7 minutes sports flights thats been reported in this thread.

Usually when i get lack of power and landing at high battery voltage, the pinion tension is not right. Unscrew the inward motor mount screw a little and pry the motor away just a smidge to get a better mesh. There should be some play between gear and the pinion and the head should rotate free. I think i got my telemetry at something like 3.74 to get 3.81 after around 4 minutes of sport flying on 300mah nanos. And that is with 75 midstick to 100 at H throttle curve. Pitch in normal is 0-20-60; BTW, 50 at mid stick is too low, the more you bog the motor, the more amp it draws. Spin it up a notch.

Originally Posted by Skovoroda

Usually when i get lack of power and landing at high battery voltage, the pinion tension is not right. Unscrew the inward motor mount screw a little and pry the motor away just a smidge to get a better mesh. There should be some play between gear and the pinion and the head should rotate free. I think i got my telemetry at something like 3.74 to get 3.81 after around 4 minutes of sport flying on 300mah nanos. And that is with 75 midstick to 100 at H throttle curve. Pitch in normal is 0-20-60; BTW, 50 at mid stick is too low, the more you bog the motor, the more amp it draws. Spin it up a notch.

What exactly is "head should rotate free" , i unscrewed the screws slightly and tried to move the motor as far back as it would allow, but my geat still "snaps" every time i move it one step. not like my v911 where theres almost no resistance at all in the mainshaft/maingear

Originally Posted by Xermalk

What exactly is "head should rotate free" , i unscrewed the screws slightly and tried to move the motor as far back as it would allow, but my geat still "snaps" every time i move it one step. not like my v911 where theres almost no resistance at all in the mainshaft/maingear

You aren't just feeling the difference between a coreless motor's feel and a cored motor's feel are you?

Originally Posted by livonia bob

You aren't just feeling the difference between a coreless motor's feel and a cored motor's feel are you?

i actually have no idea what the differences are , so maybe?

Originally Posted by Xermalk

What exactly is "head should rotate free" , i unscrewed the screws slightly and tried to move the motor as far back as it would allow, but my geat still "snaps" every time i move it one step. not like my v911 where theres almost no resistance at all in the mainshaft/maingear

Sorry, i mean after the spool up or if you quickly turn the rotor by hand, it should not stop immediately. With hand spool, mine does a couple revs before it stops. I guess it also depends how worn is your motor, but since i have only one i cant really tell how the new one should feel. Mine snaps every time i move it one tooth (i actually feel the resistance of the motor), but when you spin it up it should rotate little before it stops. Just make sure that you see some slop between the pinion and main when you hold the pinion and rotate the main back and forth. Also when you tighten the screws, the motor usually tilts a little, so it is better to tighten the outer screw first and then set the mesh. Give it a go with slightly loose gear and you should notice the power difference right away, and then try tightening the mesh until it feels somewhat right.

BTW, I've just reread your original post, and it seems your setup was running just fine, but you telemetry was off. I only managed to get 6 min on brand new once for the sake of experiment and i was running them till the heli could not hover at all. 5 minutes is fine, i usually fly mine for 4 and get 3.8 resting voltage.