The link to Cheshire Fishing Supplies is http://www.cheshirefishing.co.uk/sho...page.htm#middy
You want the 4 metre Middy pole priced at £12.99. It comes as a complete 4 metre 4 sectioned rod & the second section from the hand end is the one to use.
This is the cheapest I have found although someone mentioned that the above company sold spare sections for £4.00, but have not checked that out.


Carbon Sheet can be obtained from Free Flight Supplies, for the reinforced areas, the one to use .014"(.35mm)X3"X36", at £12 per sheet.

I still have the boom and v-tail of the Bingo in one piece, I was wondering if I could use that, cant remember the dimensions off my head at the moment as I am a few hundred miles away from home.

Originally Posted by jiberjaber

I still have the boom and v-tail of the Bingo in one piece, I was wondering if I could use that, cant remember the dimensions off my head at the moment as I am a few hundred miles away from home.

You might do, but you would have to modify the fuselage, where the boom exits, as i think the Bingo one is a bigger diameter, plus do not know how it will fly with the V tail setup.

Yes, your probably right about the boom diameter, as I have a feeling it is very substantial.

Further to the debate on motors for the Watts Up at a reasonble price, came across these Hyperion Z-3025/10 or12, that look as though they would fit the bill OK. They are out runners but have a nice taper on the front looks ideal with the wires back from the front. The diameter is 36, but a fair way back from the front mounting. Priced at £58 from Robotbirds in UK.

I used an Hyperion some time back on another type of model & was impressed with the quality & performance

I second that for Hyperion motors, I have one, I can't remember the model number but its 28mm diameter and I use it in my West Wings Orion-e, good quality motor, good price (and a nice glider kit).

Don't have their motors, but their servos are very impressive. One never seems to hear anything negative about Hyperion.

Well my plan, wood parts and mag turned up this week (Thursday).

I have spent the last 2 hours studying the plan trying to make head and tail of it. I think I am getting there, one thing I have noticed with these plans is they require a certain re-alignment of the mind to interpret, i.e. chuck all current engineering drawing knowledge out the window LOL. That said, I am enjoying the challenge.

I was planning on heading over to Balsa Hut to buy some wood this morning, but given how long it is taking me to work out what is what they will be closed before I get there, its a 30min drive from here, so looks like I will have to wait till next weekend now (or mid-week if I take a day off... unlikley though).

I am in the middle of working up a BOQ of the wood required for the build so will post it later when complete, I would appreciate some assurance I have interpreted the plan requirements correctly ... it is certainly a different challenge to my last build which was all full kit of wood.

One thing I have noticed is that there might not be the thinner section of "stern post" to laminate in the laser cut pack. Or at least I couldnt find it.

Off to make another cupper and get measureing up.

So first stab at a BOQ to add to the wood pack. Need to rationalise it , double up the outer wing and work out the actual material to buy.

Originally Posted by jiberjaber

Well my plan, wood parts and mag turned up this week (Thursday)...
One thing I have noticed is that there might not be the thinner section of "stern post" to laminate in the laser cut pack. Or at least I couldnt find it.

Just made a start on mine - the thinner section (at least this is the one I think you mean) is on the sheet of 1/8" balsa (not 3/32" as indicated on the plan!) with the rudder trailing edge and fin/rudder ribs.

Originally Posted by jiberjaber

So first stab at a BOQ to add to the wood pack. Need to rationalise it , double up the outer wing and work out the actual material to buy.

A lot of the wood can be cut from the same sheet of wood. i.e leading edges are cut from the same sheet of wood, to the 3/8 x Height of leading edge for that task(centre panel will be the highest one) The tapers are done on completing the wing panels, by aligning the LE to the rib front, then removing the wood from the front to give the taper.

Trailing edges, spoiler blade are cut from 3/16 sheet good quarter grain stock, to the width required.Planed & sanded to section required.

The grain of the 1/16 infill on the TE between the ribs runs parallel, not vertical & can be cut from off cuts of 1/16 sht for the wing sheeting.

This is not a complete list of how to do it , just a guide, but it is the most cost efective way. As I have a large collection of wood, it is not a thing I have had to do so I can only give rough guide, but buying ready shaped wood for the item needed, will be expensive

See the Alacrity build for some details of a cheap balsa stripper:-

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1180687

Yes - I still need to "value engineer" the list in to actual sheets of wood to buy. I was toying with a balsa stripper - I had seen your's and the commercialy available one (£10 I think) and was pondering... seeing as I am not going to make it to Balsa Hut till next weekend, I have been struggling cutting using a long straight edge, but this can be a bit hit and miss in terms of the chance to spoil the cut for various reasons...

I have a bit of time to chew over the options... that said, I will probably end up leaving it till Sat morning again and then run out of time (again!)... LOL

Right, wood list finished, off to Balsa Cabin tomorrow to procure About 20 quid of wood I think.

Whats "good quarter grain stock" I found a site which explains A, B and C grain is it the same as C grain?

2 sht HARD 3/32 x 3 x 36
3 off 3/32 x 1/8 x 2m strip
1 off 1/4 x 1/4 x 48
spruce strip 1/8x3/8x48x3
spruce strip 1/8x1/4x48x3
1 off SHT MED 3/8 4" X 48"
5 off SHT 1/16 x 4" X 48"
2 sht HARD 3/16 x 4" X 36" C GRAIN

Only bits I could work out from the imperial measurements were the material for the outer wing tips and the elevator pylon, but I am hoping I can ask the chap in the shop for a bit of help on that.

You will find that Balsa Cabin call it C grain, but as a good guide, see page 3 on this thread where there are photo's of cutting wing ribs to paper template. Note the very distinctive speckled appearance of the sheet, it is also very stiff if you try to bend it along the grain. Do not use a lot of force when doing this as it may split.
That is why you only use it for rigid items, no good for wing sheeting

Thanks Brian, I now have wood The C Grain is for the TE sheeting bits iirc.