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what are you planing on for the weights of the glass cloth and what directions are you going to run the cloth in ? if you need help i might be able to recommend a few tips. ...if you need them. they got to support the weight of the plane X how many "G" 's you plan on pulling ...this wing will be built kinda like a longEZ the glass is the main structure of the wing .
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you mean like the grain of wood, cloth as something similar??
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Fred |
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heres my take ...one layer of 5.8 with the coth at 90 degrees to your spars..the selvage edge (the sown part on the sides) at the root of the wing .in a square or tapered "V" shape that covers your spar and retract areas and extends 2" beyond what ever structure you have imbedded in the wing. then cover the whole wing with a layer still at 90 degreees....the next layer you will cut out on a 45 degree angle ...so there will be some watse material involved.then i would do 2 layers of 2oz. over that on the 90 and 45 if you want too the last of those 2 layer is a sacrifical ply any way as most of that would get sanded off during the body work pahse .the reason to change the direction of the cloth is for strength.the 90 degree ply works with your spars to carry the load ,the 45degree direction will add strength in the twisting direction keeping your wings stiff, not allowing them to deflect from control inputs and wind gust. you may add another layer of 2oz wrapped around the LE .and extending back 2" or so .this is to help with the overlaps at the LE which create a "C" channle.that is what i would do .if anyone out there can add or subtract from this let us know.theres no balsa sheeting so the strength has to come from the glass.and we are talking about a 25-30 lbs plane that flown like a jet is going to pull at least 4-6 g's. of course your spars extending out into the wing would help too .got any pics of tyour spars and gear structure?
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United States, TX, Grand Prairie
Joined Nov 2005
4,988 Posts
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I recent did this spar with carbon fiber on my A-4 wing. I used a 2mm h x 8mm w x 56 " long and my kids can stand on it after SS1K the bottom of it with 2oz glass. The bottom of it is as hard as a rock, it's a little heavy but if the plane takes a hard tap I have no doubt the wing will come out the better. |
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i would do one side at a time and try to get one whole side down at once ...if you had a fixure so you could flop it over and back then i would try the whole thing at once .the first layer may start getting warm and kicking off ,but i think it would be stronger if all done at once or at least one side at a time,use small amounts of epoxy so it does'nt kick off in the pot .the more you mix the more it exothrems.so small batches of slow cure epoxy would be best .if it does cure and you need another layer added you can sand to to ruff it up and have better adhesion .or use a layer of peel ply.practice on your stabs first maybe to get a feel for how it is done. |
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Well Rodger last week after reading your awesome glassing tips for a non sheeted wing I thought about it and it made sence what you were saying. It will be a heavy plane and it would need a bunch of layers to get it where it would need to be strength wise. I did the math and it comes out lighter sheeting it and glassing with one layer of glass vs. multiple layers of glass alone. Sooo last Friday I ordered the sheeting. I had to put the wings aside this weekend while I wait for the wood to arrive but I did get a bunch of little things that needed to get done on the build finished. One was modifying the struts to take the 6" wheel. I am no machinist but I improvised and got it done. Hysol is some amazing stuff. To test it I abused it pretty hard simulating hard landings and side loads and it seems to be pretty solid so we will see. If it breaks I will have to just take it in and have it sweat soldered or welded.
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