Originally Posted by Wallyfingers

Does that mean that I would have to hook up the BEC to the M-1 connector from the ESC, removing the red wire from that M-1 ESC? I know the NAZA controller had the BEC/Power Monitor that had it's own connector, it does sound like the DJI ESC's have no BEC.

Yep, DJI esc's have no BEC. That is why they have that big "OPTO" sticker; that's jargon for an esc that has no internal BEC. So yes, you will need to hook up the wires like you described. You don't really have to remove that red wire from ESC1 either... it's just there to look pretty. My buddies Arduquad with DJI esc's is wired that way and works fine.

Kev

Originally Posted by Truglodite

Yep, DJI esc's have no BEC. That is why they have that big "OPTO" sticker; that's jargon for an esc that has no internal BEC. So yes, you will need to hook up the wires like you described. You don't really have to remove that red wire from ESC1 either... it's just there to look pretty. My buddies Arduquad with DJI esc's is wired that way and works fine.

Kev

Thanks Kev, I have it figured out now.

Wally

Originally Posted by Truglodite

I'm sure a picture showing how it's done will pop up soon. ]

Here you go. Easiest way to fix this problem...
Note also my LiPo measurement connection points.
While not entirely necessary, it is good practise to run a separate ground like shown.

Originally Posted by Flying Barry

Try this first, remove the KK2 board from the quad frame and remove all the wires connect to the board. Connect only one ECS by itself to motor 1 connection on the board then power up the ECS to see if the KK2 board is still working. Let use know the results.

Barry

Thanks Barry.
I removed everything and connected 1 ESC to motor 1 connection. I checked ESC.. 5V was OK. Nothing happened unfortunately.
I've attached a photo of the damage I've done with the Al screw. Could this have caused my problem? Are there any specific points/components I could check?
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Brainanator

Plug in the BEC from ESC #2. The #1 slot exclusively powers the KK2 board, it does not share power with the other motor slots. All the other slots (2-8) are in parallel.

Thanks Brainanator!

I'll do that! My solution had been to build a harness (aka the current discussion) and use the (+) from BEC 1 to power the servo.

I hope this helps somebody else!

Cheer!

SLCPilot

yeh! got mine... ordered on the 2nd july came on the 13th...
as a newbee I am still reading and watching all the videos so I get it reasonably setup before I start flying...

Originally Posted by HappySundays

While not entirely necessary, it is good practise to run a separate ground like shown.

Thanks AS. I see the grounds come soldered together from the factory; my harness drawing has been simplified.

Kev

Guys, saw the video from warthox doing slow motion loop &roll in this thread. But its no longer here. Can someone tell where can i get the video

Hi guys, tested the board and I can tell it is really worth the 30 bucks !

The result of the maiden with P 60/70 and I 30/20 for roll/pitch and defaults for yaw here:

HK KK2.0 FC diy quad maiden (2 min 46 sec)

and the hover after some PI tuning here

Hover after some tuning of KK2.0 FC (0 min 34 sec)

Finally I understood that the default settings for roll/pitch P values may be okay but not for the I values. P=150, I=0 can work even for quads, mine are now 140 and 0 for all axis.

What is NOT working at all is autolevel, I had to switch it off completely after a few tests because it was dangerous for control of the quad. What a pity, that the board sells itself with this feature , many people buy this board jut because of that. Of course it is worth the money even without autolevel but it is a mislead for ALL those who want to pay only for this feature. HK should realize this and correct the description, the sell rate of this product would not be reduced even after providing the correct info...

Originally Posted by AlphaBravo

Guys, saw the video from warthox doing slow motion loop &roll in this thread. But its no longer here. Can someone tell where can i get the video

I don't think Warthox has done a video with a KK2 board. If so it's not on his site.

http://warthox.de

Originally Posted by icah

What is NOT working at all is autolevel, I had to switch it off completely after a few tests because it was dangerous for control of the quad. What a pity, that the board sells itself with this feature , many people buy this board jut because of that. Of course it is worth the money even without autolevel but it is a mislead for ALL those who want to pay only for this feature. HK should realize this and correct the description, the sell rate of this product would not be reduced even after providing the correct info...

Auto level works fine, it's just that people like yourself don't understand it despite having been described many times in this thread. I will go over it yet again.


Autolevel works by using the accelerometer chip. That chip knows there is an acceleration force of 9.8m/sec acting on it all the time called gravity, from that it can work out which way is up provided that there are no other acceleration forces on it at the same time. else it doesn't know which force is gravity. So the autolevel has to wait until all the other forces have died down to the point that the gravity direction is really obvious. This takes time. So every time you accelerate you can confuse the controller as to which force is gravity. It's basically meant for hovering.

A.
For everyone's reference it is in the Flight training section of the the
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by AlphaBravo

Guys, saw the video from warthox doing slow motion loop &roll in this thread. But its no longer here. Can someone tell where can i get the video

E,
Is it just the photo, or is the left side of D1 burned and desoldered? The scraatch marks near the screw hole are just on the ground, so unless something exle shorted to that, it is not the source of your problem. That said, nylon screws are preferred for mounting FCBs...
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index

Originally Posted by edje

Thanks Barry.
I removed everything and connected 1 ESC to motor 1 connection. I checked ESC.. 5V was OK. Nothing happened unfortunately.
I've attached a photo of the damage I've done with the Al screw. Could this have caused my problem? Are there any specific points/components I could check?
Thanks.

Ah, okay, let me correct myself then. It works that slow that it can not be used in a manner as other FCs like Naza. Because of the big lag it makes trouble while controlling the quad, and as found in many other posts, not only for me.

If you call this working, let it be.

Originally Posted by jesolins

E,
Is it just the photo, or is the left side of D1 burned and desoldered? The scraatch marks near the screw hole are just on the ground, so unless something exle shorted to that, it is not the source of your problem. That said, nylon screws are preferred for mounting FCBs...
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index

That's the photo. Solder looks fine on that side. I was already hoping the scratched area was on ground. Still don't know what caused the failure then
It might be possible that ground hit the right side of D1.
From now on I'll be using nylon for sure.

Originally Posted by Erknie

Auto level works fine, it's just that people like yourself don't understand it despite having been described many times in this thread. I will go over it yet again.


Autolevel works by using the accelerometer chip. That chip knows there is an acceleration force of 9.8m/sec acting on it all the time called gravity, from that it can work out which way is up provided that there are no other acceleration forces on it at the same time. else it doesn't know which force is gravity. So the autolevel has to wait until all the other forces have died down to the point that the gravity direction is really obvious. This takes time. So every time you accelerate you can confuse the controller as to which force is gravity. It's basically meant for hovering.

Hi,

I'm a little bit confused by your answer.

Autolevel shoud be what it says : autolevel, the ability to level autonomously.
It should be an help for beginners pilot, if they have difficulties, to leave sticks at center and the quad level itself.
In what I know the accelerometer, assuming it is a 3 axis one, should know the attitude of the quad, referred to earth reference (gravity). I assume it is then a matter of coding. The code should compare the quad attitude with gravity and command the quad to correct its attitude.
There are several stabilization boards which can do that. Please have a look at my blog to see several usages I did with the UavDevBoard (more on autonomous flight than at stabilization, but it is great at this last feature too).

The code which is being developed for quads on this board is auto leveling and is amazing on this feature, but it is still in alpha.

Btw autolevel is working for me. You can see that here.
I still did not try it in real dynamic flight, but I don't expect miracles. I don't expect it levels my quad in a millisecond. This probably is the main mistake, expecting a stabilization board do what the pilot can't do.

Anyway KK boards are amazing, considering the price. Developing, coding and testing is really time demanding, have a look at prices for closed source devices.

Ric