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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim.Thompson View Post
Which brings to mind Adam, in the case of a square or rectangular joiner, would you use some of the joiner box (or tube if you like), to do the same job?
Except of course that you would not drill out the hole, but scribe it for later cutting out after pulling the part out of the mould I am guessing?

Jim.
You could do that....or have the guide hold a piece of joiner (release applied) that the fuse layup gets done around leaving a perfect hole.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:13 PM
Entropy is happening!
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Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
You could do that....or have the guide hold a piece of joiner (release applied) that the fuse layup gets done around leaving a perfect hole.
Yes, I see. Very nice!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:21 PM
Arrarrar!
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Hey Jim, about the semipermanent release, FGI, and Im sure others, sell TR's version (cleaner/ Sealer and release) in small tins for not outrageous prices. Ive read their litrature and it sounds pretty good. We use and trust their wax, so I dont see why their sealer and release would be any worse- Might be worth a try. Next mould I make, which wont be for a while I will go with this I think, and 2K paint, and Adam's tooling coat mix too.
BTW, your plugs look great!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 11:50 PM
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Hey Jim, about the semipermanent release, FGI, and Im sure others,.................!
Do you have a link to a retailer Josh?
I have not had happy dealings with FGI in the past.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 04:06 AM
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hey jim, I forgot they changed to Nuplex composites. Still the same though
http://www.nuplexcomposites.com/australia/?q=node/42
Here you go
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 03:37 PM
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hey jim, I forgot they changed to Nuplex composites. Still the same though
http://www.nuplexcomposites.com/australia/?q=node/42
Here you go
Yes, got that Josh. Still the same staff too!

I'm trying to get onto them now. It will be interesting to see if first of all they are more co-operative this time and what the delivered cost will be for the system.
Are there two or more applications involved with more than one product for this do you know Josh?

Jim.
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Setting plug into the parting board.

I'm now setting the plug into the parting board using some "Rainbow Clay" that I think Josh suggested. Very nice to use too! Much easier than the conventional plasticene. Less viscous.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 01:57 AM
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First half.

The first half has been waxed 3 times and PVA coated.
When it was nice and dry ( it almost dried as I was putting it one, so hot is the weather 38 deg C.), I gave it a coat of gel coat.
When tacked off, I started the vinylester/chopped strand layup. However, I did use some veil around the wing roots to avoid voids which I have got formerly in a mould like this.

So far, its looking ok.

Jim.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 10:55 AM
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Looking good Jim
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Nice!
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Sharp corners or arris's.

Adam,

I am still having difficulty layup a mould around sharp external corners without avoiding the possibility (or reality) of voids between the glass and the gel coat or tooling coat.
I've tried just laying one or two layers of veil glass cloth over the corner first and letting it tack off. Maybe I should do more of these in several sessions, with time in between for part curing, before proceed to build up with the heavier reinforcements.

I have also though about laying the initital layers up the sides of the wing fillets and ending the layers at the very corner (arris) of the wing root. Then when tacked off, lay a separate flat layer or two on the root extending over the junction of the side ones. Then allow to tack off, and continue accordingly untill I have sufficient build up to lay the last layers all the way around.

Your thoughts please?

Jim.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:22 PM
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Do your first layer of surface coat and let it go tacky. Brush the corner with resin (the same that you made the surface coat with) and add 3 strips of wet-out 12K carbon tow into the corner. Stipple each strip right into the corner the immediately add your second layer of surface coat. After this has gotten tacky you can pipe in some sploog into the corner and add strips of light glass that spans the corner to make a fillet.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:30 PM
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Do your first layer of surface coat and let it go tacky. Brush the corner with resin (the same that you made the surface coat with) and add 3 strips of wet-out 12K carbon tow into the corner. Stipple each strip right into the corner the immediately add your second layer of surface coat. After this has gotten tacky you can pipe in some sploog into the corner and add strips of light glass that spans the corner to make a fillet.
Adam,

Actually, I did not explain well enough obviously. I'm having no difficulty whatsoever with internal corner for part manufacture etc.

It's the external corners, specifically the wing roots of the mould manufacture of this project that I am having (and previous projects like this one). External layup around the plug in other words. Difficulty in getting the fabric(s) to conform.

Thanks,

Jim.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Adam,

Actually, I did not explain well enough obviously. I'm having no difficulty whatsoever with internal corner for part manufacture etc.
It's the external corners, specifically the wing roots of the mould manufacture of this project. External around the plug in other words. Difficulty in getting the fabric(s) to conform.

Thanks,

Jim.

Ahhhhhh....is see. I was talking about the concave corner between the parting board and the plug. So you are talking about convex corners rather than concave ones?

I cut the cloth into small 2" x 2" or smaller squares to handle those. Sometimes some 3/4" wide bias cut strips will work too. Using a really pliable fabric helps as well. It can be tough with heavier mold building cloths.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 08:41 PM
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.......... So you are talking about convex corners rather than concave ones?

Yes.

I cut the cloth into small 2" x 2" or smaller squares to handle those. Sometimes some 3/4" wide bias cut strips will work too. Using a really pliable fabric helps as well. It can be tough with heavier mold building cloths.
That's a good start Adam. But what exactly do you do at the very apex of the convex corner? Do you fold each of these small pieces over the corner in turn? and then do you wait untill they have tacked off before proceeding?

Or

Do you lay each of these up too (and not over) the corner or arris, allow to part cure, then proceed to lay more of them on the other (intersecting) face to join at the two edges of the cloth?

Jim.
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Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Jan 11, 2013 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Punctuation.
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