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Old Jul 06, 2010, 02:51 PM
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bangor, maine
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proctor plans 1/6 scale scratchbuilt N-11

i put the N-28 to bed for now because i'm building a proctor N-11 in 1/6 scale for a person overseas that i hope will be a contest winner in all catagories. it will have a completly working cockpit of course, electric powered, rotating lerhone and maybe a couple of other things. if you read this charlie ( from manzano laser whom i cant speak highly enough) i'll be sending you an order on some ribs but easy on the sauce this time. i hope this will be the best ive done sor in detail, inner workings, engineering and flyability. i have to say it's nice building with plenty of fresh materials and get away from the N-28. i spent 90% of my time looking for working material in stead of just grabbing a piece of wood and cutting the part out, it was really getting to me. so far on the N-11 ive formed all the L.G. struts and cabanes from 5/16" alum. tube with a 0.35 wall. ive cut 70% of all the parts, formers, bulkheads, skin etc. and ive also steamed and formed the upper longerons out of 3/16" spruce. the 1/5 scale called for 1/4 inch longerons and vert. and horz. all the way around so ive scaled down to 3/16" and 1/8 ply ive substituted 3/32" ply for 1/8" called for in the original 1/5 scale. all the stab., elev. and rudder outlines were made and formed from 4 pieces of 1/8" x 1/32" spruce lamina i cut and made. i also used 3/32 alum. cross pieces in these parts with brass control horns. the rest is 3/32" hard balsa. i'll post some pics of the hand metal forming next to the original proctor 1/5 scale parts. i also etched about 150 brass parts so far in 0.10, 0.15 and 0.20 gauges. that's about it for now and i'll try and post more pics of the actual building this time, i did say try.
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 03:24 PM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
i would like to mention that i dismantled my 1/5 scale proctor N-11 and sold it for parts and in doing so i learned a few things. on the rudder on the original plans it says to glue 2 pieces of whatever size aluminum tube right to the spar. when dismantling this method i could not believe how easy these pieces broke off the balsa spar so i redesigned the rudder hinge on this plane. i used 0.10 brass plate with brass tube welded to it and then glued and screwed the plate down. i know this adds a little weight to a very tail heavy plane with a short moment so i'll have to reduce somewhere else, it just didn't sit well with me.
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 05:51 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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Nice work - I really enjoy looking at all the 'bits' as a work-in-progress. Gives one a good insight into the scope and scale of the task ahead. Also, of course, afew hints and tips about ways to go about it

Looking forward to your build.

Pat
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 05:57 PM
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sarkantyu's Avatar
United States, MI, Lake Orion
Joined Feb 2004
293 Posts
Just read through your N 28 build.You are a true inspiration. Thanks, Joe
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 09:24 PM
Übung macht den Meister..
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United States, OR, Fairview
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James
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 09:38 PM
Fly, dangit!!!
Led Zepplin's Avatar
Little Rock, AR USA
Joined Jan 2007
1,050 Posts
Shoot yeah! Spikkkkkkkkk - Your build give me inspiration to keep trying! Truly wonderful work and I'm sure the owner of this one will be more than satisfied. Never enough Nieuports! Best of luck!

J. B.
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 09:58 PM
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Canada, ON, Kingston
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Nice work - (I love the little N.11.)

Martin
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 12:26 PM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
proctor plans 1/6 scale scratchbuilt N-11

well as you can see ive got the stab, elev. and rudder covered and rib stitched. the rudders painted and ready for the french blue and red. i started building the fuse today in stead of alum. wire put into holes drilled between the longerons and horz. and vert. i made brass anchor fittings to slip into a shallow notch on the uprights. i used this method on the eindecker and seemed to work extremely well this way i can use stranded wire with a 1/16" brass swag. the fuse is going to take quite a while. i reckon i'll be in the think tank for some time figuring out where every thing is going to go and how it will be engineered and also weight, weight and weight somthing you have to be aware of at all times with a plane like this.
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 03:37 PM
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United States, MI, Lake Orion
Joined Feb 2004
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Could you tell us about your rib stitching method, including the spacing of stitches.Thanks,
Joe
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 05:54 PM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarkantyu View Post
Could you tell us about your rib stitching method, including the spacing of stitches.Thanks,
Joe
well joe i dont have to space my stitching. i buy my rib stitch from scaleribstitch in canada, there the only company in the world that makes it, maybe your familar with them, if not when you purchase it you ask for the desired scale i'm at 1/6 scale so i have 1/2" spacing. when you get it ( it's very affordable buy the way ) it comes in 2" x 12" strips sticky on both sides with removable tape over it of course. i have 3/32" ribs on my tail feathers so useing a straight edge i cut strips of rib stitch 3/32 wide. now you can peel the tape off the back side ribs faceing up and put it right over the rib on your fabric covered piece and then peel the top off and lay your fabric strip right on top of it, its sticky so it will stay there and then iron down your fabric. looks just as good or better than any other method out there including hand stitching thats why i use it . i use a different method , i attach my rib stitch to my fabric strip first and useing a rubber roller flatten it out. i make as many as i will need and then remove the tape and lay that over my rib, both things at once and this method assures every thing is straight and centered. i'll post a pick of one of my strips
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Last edited by spikkkkkkkk; Jul 09, 2010 at 12:02 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:31 AM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
Nieuport 11 scracthbuild 1/6 scale

i'm working on the fuse right now and there are tons of variables as far as servo placement and the mechanics of it all. the working cockpit will be secondary on this plane. the main control lines will run beneath the sub floor with the exception of the elev. which is behind the pilots seat. the frame is mostly bass with the longerons being spruce, i want it to be durable and a good flyer. the batterys ( 2 3s ) will go right up againt the fire wall along with the speed controller which will help counter the weight. it took me hrs. and hrs. with number crunching and mechanics along with the weight issue to figure out where the rudder servo would go. it's a very shallow sub floor. maybe you can see in the pics the upper left hand corner against the fire wall and will be facing downwards. the whole frame is pinned and glued together for strength also. i have to build and install the working cockpit while it's open and then build-up around it. it's going to be a task. i'll post more pics later on in the week.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 09:46 AM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
Joined Sep 2003
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Wasn't the fuel tank just forward of the dashboard on those? If so, would be a good place for all the servos. Just use some snake tubing to get the control runs down through the floor.

Ribs will go out tomorrow. Have fun!

charlie
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 10:15 AM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
Nieuport 11 scracthbuild 1/6 scale

oh i wish i could charlie but it has a completly working cockpit, everything from the rudder board where the pilots feet are going to be to the seat has to be open with the exception of the aleiron servo which will be high right behind the dash board, hidden and will control the aleirons directly and indirectly control the stick.
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Old Jul 12, 2010, 01:20 PM
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Albuquerque, NM USA
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I thought the fuel tank would go all the way to the floor so you could just hook up the rudder underneath.

Oh well, some things just aren't destined to be easy.

charlie
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 01:41 PM
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bangor, maine
Joined Jan 2008
330 Posts
Nieuport 11 scracthbuild 1/6 scale

i managed to get some detail parts done. this is the instrument panel, i havn't made the pulsator yet probably because its the most difficult piece to make. it's a b---h trying to find a glass or even plastic dome. i etched the verbage on the name plate but the serial no. is so small and reversed it's hard to catch. i was wondering if any body out there has delt with detail on this small of a scale?
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