But beware, it is still written in Evil Assembly!!

It's the only way

Originally Posted by cryhavoc38

you get the sense that there is an entitlement within those words no?


Just order the dang thing.

Three days ago, I was perusing the HK web site and came across that board. thought it was pretty cool, but went on to other things and was going to come back to it.

Now they are all gone..grrr
So I signed up to be notified when they come back in stock.

For the money, this looks like a KILLER board for some low cost quad fun and even to experiment in a plank.

And you'll keep waiting since its going to take months to restock.

Originally Posted by jesolins

Gents,
Here is a nice website by CrashingDutchman that collects and searches for HK buddy codes. Just type in KK2 in the seach window and you will see active HK buddy codes: http://hk.rc-international.info/SWARM
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Info Mega Link Index

Guess, I don't understand how the buddycode thing works. I click on the links from Crashing Dutchmans website and still shows the 29.99 price. Even if I do a checkout still says the normal price. Is it because its back ordered?

Originally Posted by BennettOZ84

Guess, I don't understand how the buddycode thing works. I click on the links from Crashing Dutchmans website and still shows the 29.99 price. Even if I do a checkout still says the normal price. Is it because its back ordered?

You need to login to HK first
Then be sure you have the kk2 not in your chart already
Then click on the buddy code

Tchuss

E_lm_70

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

- It has an option to use the Z axis Acc to dampen vertical movements. (not used in the video) Works very well in turbulent air.

Oh I like this! Not as good as baro Altitude Hold but I'll take it! I'm always having to mess with the throttle to keep a stable altitude! I didn't see in the Manual how to turn this on/off?

For the self-level... Do I have to take off from a level surface? How else would it know what is level without a magnetometer?

Felt lucky checking HK before work and getting one while it was in stock... Can't wait to tune and fly it!!

Originally Posted by fallingdown

Oh I like this! Not as good as baro Altitude Hold but I'll take it! I'm always having to mess with the throttle to keep a stable altitude! I didn't see in the Manual how to turn this on/off?
For the self-level... Do I have to take off from a level surface? How else would it know what is level without a magnetometer?

It may not be in the manual but it is in the menu. You just calibrate it on a level surface.
A magnetometer is for a compass. Nothing to do with autolevel.

Wow, 3 days without following the threads, and then this. Things change every day ..., where will this stop?

manu

Originally Posted by HappySundays

I second that question. Sure, I can draw it up (again) but I would love to NOT have to do it I just did the i86 board only last week LOL

Can you put me in CC?
manu

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

I will send you a PM.

Originally Posted by kapteinkuk

Some more info:

- Each of the three gyro/acc chips has its own 3.3V Maxim low-noise voltage regulator.

- It has an option to use the Z axis Acc to dampen vertical movements. (not used in the video) Works very well in turbulent air.

- There is only one free IO pin, PortA0. It is tied to VCC, so a track must be cut. (it must not be used as a digital output during ADC operation) However, the ISP interface (three IO's) can be used with care as these is shared with three of the buttons. (For example, use only when armed, no buttons is supposed to be used then) Free output and input port can also be used of course.

- The gyros (IDG650 and ISZ650) has two outputs, 440 and 2000 deg/sec. It is selectable with a small solder jumper. It comes with 440 set.

- Output PWM rate is 400Hz.

If the gyro can work on 2000 deg/sec, why not make the 2000 deg/sec as the working output? Which solder jumper need to be mod?

Originally Posted by HappySundays

It may not be in the manual but it is in the menu. You just calibrate it on a level surface.
A magnetometer is for a compass. Nothing to do with autolevel.

Okay, I thought that a 3 axis magnetometer was needed so the fc would always know its position, not just north/south but pitched up/down and rolled left/right? Like, if I calibrate it while on a level surface, then unplug the battery, roll it 30 degrees over and plug it back in... it knows it has been rolled 30 degrees? I get that it would know this if the power was on and it sensed it was being rotated... I just don't know how it would know if power was disconnected?

Or do you have to calibrate on a level surface every time a new battery goes in?

Originally Posted by BennettOZ84

Guess, I don't understand how the buddycode thing works. I click on the links from Crashing Dutchmans website and still shows the 29.99 price. Even if I do a checkout still says the normal price. Is it because its back ordered?

Well, I bought 2 boards at @$29.99 because I didn't see this thread with the buddy codes in it, but at least they have shipped and are on the way

Originally Posted by fallingdown

Oh I like this! Not as good as baro Altitude Hold but I'll take it! I'm always having to mess with the throttle to keep a stable altitude! I didn't see in the Manual how to turn this on/off?

lol, baros are terrible at altitude hold, you have to calibrate them against something else all the time eg an accelerometer. I mean what has barometric pressure really got to do with detecting Z axis movements? When a gust of wind comes through there is an accompanying change in pressure. You can't have air flowing with out air pressure change, that goes for wind, or a simple fan.

Originally Posted by fallingdown

Okay, I thought that a 3 axis magnetometer was needed so the fc would always know its position, not just north/south but pitched up/down and rolled left/right? Like, if I calibrate it while on a level surface, then unplug the battery, roll it 30 degrees over and plug it back in... it knows it has been rolled 30 degrees? I get that it would know this if the power was on and it sensed it was being rotated... I just don't know how it would know if power was disconnected?

Or do you have to calibrate on a level surface every time a new battery goes in?

There is a force trying to accelerate the FC at 9.8M/sec ^2 in the Z axis all the time. It's called gravity. An accelerometer, once calibrated, is far more accurate at figuring what is level than a magnetometer, which can swing wildly with just a change in motor current! A magnetometer is really just used as a compass when you want the copter facing one way all the time for AP or something similar. Not much use for general flying.

Originally Posted by pinguin

If the gyro can work on 2000 deg/sec, why not make the 2000 deg/sec as the working output? Which solder jumper need to be mod?

Are you really going to do more than 440 deg/sec?

For those who might want to look through the KK2's manual while waiting for delivery of the unit...or those waiting for them to come off backorder at HK.

Here is the KK2's manual: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...30X7478X47.pdf

-mike-

Originally Posted by pinguin

If the gyro can work on 2000 deg/sec, why not make the 2000 deg/sec as the working output? Which solder jumper need to be mod?

I believe it has to do with the output resolution of the sensor. The sensor has a finite maximum output signal so if you set it to 440 then it is capable of detecting the angular rate more precisely since it is describing a smaller input range with a constant output range. This should lead to more stable flight

Originally Posted by hefest

And you'll keep waiting since its going to take months to restock.

Where did you hear that? The site says 10-25 days. All my backorders have been accurate so far.

Originally Posted by TheNiceGuy

Where did you hear that? The site says 10-25 days. All my backorders have been accurate so far.

Agreed just poor speculation.