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Old Sep 26, 2012, 12:48 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Last edited by davidmc36; Sep 26, 2012 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 12:50 PM
Be the duck. Whaaaa?
UberZogster's Avatar
United States, CA, Guerneville
Joined Mar 2012
312 Posts
I have been using Titebond 2.
http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx...b-217a38930fa2

I also have some Titebond Origional that I will probably use when I run out of 2.
http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx...9-f684acc71207

One day when I was tired I decided to see how much a wing panel that I completed the previous day would twist. The wood was ripped apart and all the glue joints were still intact so I'm happy with the strength of glue.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 01:29 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
3,824 Posts
You could read for hours on the pros and cons of alaphatic vs polyurethane but I didn't really start this thread for the purpose of a glue debate. I am sure lots people would be happy to fill a thread with comments on the glue debate if you started one. I am sure either type is more than strong enough for birch ply and blasa that we normally work with.

On topic comments and suggestions are welcome.

Does anybody have experience with this elevator design?

Regardless of the obvious poor mating of the hardwood to balsa at the ends, I don't get a really warm and fuzzy feeling about a control horn on one side of the elevator joined in this manner. This appears to be as per plans.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 01:40 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Illinois
Joined Sep 2001
25,342 Posts
The concept has worked for a long time.

You need to be sure that the joiner and joint is solid. On my models I use a hardwood joiner that is 1/3 to 1/2 the chord of the elevator. I'd say that one is too narrow. Mine also extend 1/3 of the span as well, and the control horn is connected (usually sandwiching) the joiner, so that the force isn't totally on the glue joint.

Andy
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 02:04 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyKunz View Post
The concept has worked for a long time.

You need to be sure that the joiner and joint is solid. On my models I use a hardwood joiner that is 1/3 to 1/2 the chord of the elevator. I'd say that one is too narrow. Mine also extend 1/3 of the span as well, and the control horn is connected (usually sandwiching) the joiner, so that the force isn't totally on the glue joint.

Andy
Thanks for the info. I thought it was a bit small looking. Since the construction is so simple I may just start over with the elevator. I was thinking of making it and the rudder a bit bigger than original anyway since this will likely get an up-sized power system to turn it into something to goof around with.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 04:30 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
12,788 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmc36 View Post
Does anybody have experience with this elevator design?

Regardless of the obvious poor mating of the hardwood to balsa at the ends, I don't get a really warm and fuzzy feeling about a control horn on one side of the elevator joined in this manner. This appears to be as per plans.
Prefer your plan of tossing it and making a new elevator - that job looks like a failure waiting to happen.

My usual, which has never let me down, is a wire joiner let into the elevator halves with thin ply reinforcement top and bottom either side of the wire. I'll set it all up, drill some small holes through the balsa elevators either side of the wire, epoxy the wire into the elevators and then glue on the ply doublers, dripping glue through those holes I drilled. That way, the balsa elevators are reinforced some around the wire joiner and the ply doublers are also connected through the balsa.

Hope that helps

D
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 06:11 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
Prefer your plan of tossing it and making a new elevator - that job looks like a failure waiting to happen.

My usual, which has never let me down, is a wire joiner let into the elevator halves with thin ply reinforcement top and bottom either side of the wire. I'll set it all up, drill some small holes through the balsa elevators either side of the wire, epoxy the wire into the elevators and then glue on the ply doublers, dripping glue through those holes I drilled. That way, the balsa elevators are reinforced some around the wire joiner and the ply doublers are also connected through the balsa.

Hope that helps

D
The wire is the way I am used to seeing it. This is the first one I have seen like this. Some 1/32 ply doublers reinforcing the wire area and making a spot for the horn to go seems like a good way to go.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 09:41 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
3,824 Posts
Was looking over the fuse so I can plan the anchors for the wing screws (will ditch the rubber bands) and noticed many stringers and stringer doublers incomplete. Lots of materials came in the box when I got it so they should install easily. Gotta finish those things before looking at wing attach.
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:16 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Servo bays and covers nearing completion.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:23 PM
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Zagabond's Avatar
United States, PA, Shamokin
Joined Mar 2004
499 Posts
kitbashing the TM 40

I am working on the same kit, it laid around here for years. I am trying to decide on the wing, I want to make it semi symmetrical for more aerobatic performance. Suggestions please? Sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread. Keep pics coming, I want to bolt on my wing too...

Jess
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 09:29 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagabond View Post
I am working on the same kit, it laid around here for years. I am trying to decide on the wing, I want to make it semi symmetrical for more aerobatic performance. Suggestions please? Sorry, didnt mean to hijack your thread. Keep pics coming, I want to bolt on my wing too...

Jess
Hey Jess. Good to hear from you. Happy to have you join the thread. Post some pics.

If you still have the wing in an optional state it would probably be not too hard to modify the rib design and put some curve in the bottom. My motivation for flattening out the wing was so it will do inverted better. Some curve on the bottom should be even better for that. I guess you would need to make the wing saddle area on the fuse a bit different with some curve too.

Are you going to fly wet fuel or electric?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 10:26 PM
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Zagabond's Avatar
United States, PA, Shamokin
Joined Mar 2004
499 Posts
Tm 40

I have an eflite power 46 and 5s1p a123 batteries waiting for a new home.... I will try to keep you up to date.


Thanks
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 11:21 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagabond View Post
I have an eflite power 46 and 5s1p a123 batteries waiting for a new home.... I will try to keep you up to date.


Thanks
I will be electric too. That sounds pretty close to what I was thinking of.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 03:17 PM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
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Servo panel work. Need to put a small shim around the edge of the panel, maybe 1/32, to make it level with the wing surface.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 02:42 AM
No bounce, No play.
davidmc36's Avatar
Canada, ON, Ottawa
Joined Oct 2010
3,824 Posts
Paper conduits installed.
Ply nose rib doubler with poplar block for drilling hole and gluing in dowel for fwd wing attach.
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