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Old Sep 02, 2009, 09:27 AM
Will work for foam
wingnutt's Avatar
United States, WI, Muskego
Joined Apr 2005
1,502 Posts
Question
Arrrgh! Wasted space at top of stator tooth

When trying to wind my current stator, I have big gap at the top of the tooth that can easily take another 2 (possibly 3) winds. I begin the first wrap at the bottom of the tooth, wind all the way up and then back down. Now I am in a situation where the bottom cannot take any more wraps and still leave room for the next tooth to do the same, but have room at the top of the tooth.

I have tried double wrapping the top before working my way back down, but the crossovers create air gaps and waste space. I also tried going straight back up to the top of the tooth, but cannot hold the 90 deg turn to start the top wraps while keeping the wire tight.

Is there a trick to doing this?

Thanks,
wingnutt
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Old Sep 02, 2009, 10:22 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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It's easier to skip up a few rows and wind from the middle up in that situation. It can be tough to keep the diagonal on the back of the stator, but it's easier if it's just a few rows.

Hope that makes sense...
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 12:51 AM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
The Beav got it right. But a couple of additional details (and, by the way, this is the standard 3rd layer. Welcome to the club):

The first useful point is to wind all three phases at once if ABC. If dLRK, it's a bit more complicated. There, you wind the first two layers of all the phases (leaving a forest of wires dangling) and then put on the third layer. Slipping back to ABC, you wind the first two layers on the first three teeth, then drop the third layer on the first tooth (leaving you an interesting problem on the last tooth) then wind the first two layers of the fourth. You can figure it out from there.

The second is what the Beav said. If, say, you did 16 turns on the first two layers and you wanted 21 total, go to the frontside and count back five notches from the end. That's where you want to start your third layer. If there's any play in the second layer, open a little space between two wires in that notch and use it to "anchor." Work from the inside out, ending at the outer "notch" (not on the hammerhead itself; that invites an insulation cut).

This will leave you with a spectacular transit wire to the next tooth. Call it a feature, not a bug.


Dave
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 08:31 AM
Will work for foam
wingnutt's Avatar
United States, WI, Muskego
Joined Apr 2005
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Beav and Dave - Thank you very much! Of all my trials (ABC), i didnt think to wind all teeth to the end of the second layer, then go back and do the third layer. Cool!
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Old Sep 03, 2009, 03:14 PM
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Carmichael, CA
Joined Feb 2007
3,538 Posts
To point out the obvious, it is a good idea to check rotor clearance for that 3rd layer before you commit to the wind. The last thing you want is to spend an hour completing a wind, only to find out the rotor is going to cut your insulation.

Sometimes even if there isn't rotor clearance for a standard "full thickness" 3-layer wind, you can leave enough slack in the second layer so you can "pack" your 3rd layer in between second layer winds toward the front (where clearance is critical). When done correctly, the 3rd layer turns are obvious in the back and between the poles, but the front looks like a 2 layer wind (as the 3rd layer wires exit to the front, they "blend" in with the 2nd layer wires). It doesn't always work depending on the particulars, but I've managed to successfully add 1 or 2 more turns using this technique on stators that otherwise would not allow a standard 3rd layer.
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Old Sep 04, 2009, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timocharis
The Beav got it right. But a couple of additional details (and, by the way, this is the standard 3rd layer. Welcome to the club):

The first useful point is to wind all three phases at once if ABC. If dLRK, it's a bit more complicated. There, you wind the first two layers of all the phases (leaving a forest of wires dangling) and then put on the third layer. Slipping back to ABC, you wind the first two layers on the first three teeth, then drop the third layer on the first tooth (leaving you an interesting problem on the last tooth) then wind the first two layers of the fourth. You can figure it out from there.

The second is what the Beav said. If, say, you did 16 turns on the first two layers and you wanted 21 total, go to the frontside and count back five notches from the end. That's where you want to start your third layer. If there's any play in the second layer, open a little space between two wires in that notch and use it to "anchor." Work from the inside out, ending at the outer "notch" (not on the hammerhead itself; that invites an insulation cut).

This will leave you with a spectacular transit wire to the next tooth. Call it a feature, not a bug.


Dave
Funny thing, I've always wound one phase at a time... I turn the stator as I wind, so anything else would be a major pain.

Here's a Toshiba I did in '06, 14t of 21g. It'll take some practice before I can do that again!
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Old Sep 04, 2009, 12:16 AM
Dave North
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USA, CA, San Jose
Joined Apr 2004
5,254 Posts
You got a .38 Special to work? I had my best luck with .32 caliber.


Dave
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