Well I asked him to help again and he is doing so. Youa re right, he was not very helpful before. Funny you should ask about registering with a new screen name.....Looks like i had an older account from years ago i forgot all about, so when I signed up recently it may have caused a problem because I have 2 accounts. hopefully I can clsoe one and that will solve the problem.

Originally Posted by ChrisWNY

Sheesh, that is odd - I wonder if someone spoofed your IP or email and wreaked havoc in their forums, I have had an account there for over a year now but really have only watched the videos and haven't posted. Will it allow you to register a new screen name, or are you blocked immediately just by entering the site? Sometimes message forums will automatically block traffic from "blacklisted" IP's, and this software can often be faulty which can result in what you are experiencing. The fact that the admin was a real jerk in his response obviously isn't helping. Sounds like that admin doesn't give a #@%! about his own message forum...

I guess my first post will be directed within the complaints area of their forum, letting them know that their forum software is blocking legit users...

Originally Posted by mccheli

How this electronic package for the HK500GT? I'd like to keep it low budget.

mccheli - that link is resulting in a "404 Page Not Found" error, please double-check the link and re-post. If you check the first page of this thread and follow the link to Melnic's EXI 500 thread, you should find a lot of helpful information on selecting the right electronics for your HK-500GT.

Originally Posted by rowdyjoe

Servo creep?

RJ

I'll poke my head up over the wall here. I think the servo creep is nothing more than the result of the gyro not being set for zero stick properly while also having the gyro in HH mode while on the ground. AVCS just keeps moving the servo slowly in response to what it things is very slow rotation of the heli. Proof is too switch to Rate mode and see if the creep stops.

Try doing the 'three mode changes' in 3 seconds to reset the gyros learned center point again...

Originally Posted by mlinder

Martin,

Thanks for your help.

I did what you suggested. I unplugged the single wire plug and plugged in a servo. When I adjust the gain, the servo indeed moves. So the Rx appears fine.

So I guess the gyro is messed up? I just got it about two weeks ago. I hope Hobbypartz will replace it - but I don't have the package anymore.

Mark

To clarify. When you had the servo plugged in, did the servo swing from end to end when you changed modes ?
If it stays at one end of its travel and just moves a bit at that end then you are not actually changing modes with the TX. I assumed you used a servo that had the arm centered on it before you used it too.

One very handy gadget I use when helping mates setup their gyros is my 'servo tester'. This eliminates the TX so you can prove the gyro is behaving first.

With the gyro gain input plugged into the tester, the gyro should indicate HH Mode at one side of center on the knob, and Rate Mode at the other. Obviously the gyros other cable needs to be plugged into the model or another tester to receive power and a rudder input also.

Originally Posted by PLMS

To clarify. When you had the servo plugged in, did the servo swing from end to end when you changed modes ?
If it stays at one end of its travel and just moves a bit at that end then you are not actually changing modes with the TX. I assumed you used a servo that had the arm centered on it before you used it too.

One very handy gadget I use when helping mates setup their gyros is my 'servo tester'. This eliminates the TX so you can prove the gyro is behaving first.

With the gyro gain input plugged into the tester, the gyro should indicate HH Mode at one side of center on the knob, and Rate Mode at the other. Obviously the gyros other cable needs to be plugged into the model or another tester to receive power and a rudder input also.

PLMS,

I would have replied sooner to you and Tumbler and others who have given me input on this gyro thing, but work got it the way

Anyway, I tried the servo test again that you suggested and indeed the servo swings when I change modes. So based on that, and the fact Tumbler says his HH light stays on too tells me its a "feature" of this gyro

I just got back from a test hover and a little FF. I set the gain to 92 and actually got a little wag in it. I feel better now, I think. It would appear the electronics in this gyro just may be a bit diffferent than others. After all, I guess the HH/rate mode percentage is just a relative number, right?

I am going to put this issue to rest for now. Now, I gotta get the blades to track properly. I have an Align main shaft and feathering shaft in there, but I can't get the blades to track. Granted, they are the stock blades, but they balanced well. I will say that, even with Align dampeners in there, the blade grip assembly wobbles in there, as if the HK head block recess where the dampeners seat was machined a few thou too big, allowing some slopy movementp. I ordered an align head block which hopefully will fix this. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks again to all who have chimed in on the gyro issue!

Mark

Mark

Yes I have the same problem. Can't keep it in track. Changed all the shafts, dampers, next the blades and links. Have them on order now should be next week.

Tony

First flight was this morning. This heli is very nice! I am pretty impressed with the Hobbyking 401B gyro. It is tracking perfectly and no vibrations. Head speed is high with the Typhoon motor and 12T pinion, I have not tach'ed it yet though.

It appears that there is one bad cell in my Zippy 6S 2650 pack. It was way down on power and my charger now only sees 5S... One cell is .3 volts below the others. The other Zippy pack is fine.

I will be putting the battery in an ammo case and sticking in the driveway in the event it blows!

Originally Posted by Jon h2

First flight was this morning. This heli is very nice! I am pretty impressed with the Hobbyking 401B gyro. It is tracking perfectly and no vibrations. Head speed is high with the Typhoon motor and 12T pinion, I have not tach'ed it yet though.

It appears that there is one bad cell in my Zippy 6S 2650 pack. It was way down on power and my charger now only sees 5S... One cell is .3 volts below the others. The other Zippy pack is fine.

I will be putting the battery in an ammo case and sticking in the driveway in the event it blows!

Jon, I have the very same problem with a brand new Turnigy 3000 6s pack. Charged it once, voltage was fine, Hovered using that pack. No problems. The next day - charger won't charge it as one cell reads 1 volt!

Too costly to send back to Hobby King. What can I do with this pack (besides drowning it in salt water)?

Mark

Check the joints, where the cables connect to the cells. Maybe there's some shortcut between 2 cells.

Hmmm,

I have to cut into the pack to do this, right? (I foresee a "Kaboom" moment coming!)

Mark

Just open the shrinking tube a bit. Be careful _not_ to cut into the cells!

I guess I have nothing to lose.

If you see or hear about a mushroom cloud over southern California this afternoon.....

It's me

Mark

Well, if you get to the point, where you are not so sure what to do...just stop...

Maybe you have comrade, who is familiar with battery soldering etc?

Yeah,

I will have to find someone knowledgel on this stuff. i'm just not comfortable with it. I just don't know anyone with such skill and knowledge. I took the shrink wrap off and exposed the circuit board that has the plug leads and the balance wires attached to it. I haven't the guts to pry the circuit board off the peek underneath.

Mark

Mark,
If you can see the circuit board and the balance wires are securely soldered, you have a bad cell. If you have access to a voltmeter with probes and you want to make sure, you can touch them to the individual solder points on the circuit board in the same order that they're in the balance plug. Two wires that are next to each other in the balance plug should give you one cell's worth of voltage. Any two adjacent wires that don't get 3.0-4.2V indicates a bad cell.