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Old Jul 13, 2014, 07:00 PM
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Australia, WA, Perth
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Ally ex thysenkrump 31.25mm thick (1.25") x 280x720 = $450+GST ea

So working off two at 990 including its about 1200% more expensive.....I think.
Definatley worth looking at Andrew, just worried about the abrasivness of the dust.
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 08:58 PM
ETS....Energy retention system
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gold coast australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
Freestyle is 30mm thick, 3073mm x 762mm and 116kg.
Easy to get and easy to cut and no need for backing
Just clarifying what I meant here. If it where possible to fit the scratch dihedral on to a 30mm piece of freestyle. It would just make the job easier. No time machining a base and gluing bit of ply together. Yes the product is more expensive , but a huge amount of you time and machining would be taken away.
But like all the DLG guys do , just the 12mm with a ply frame.. That works extremely well also.
Maybe that's some thing to look into. You would be able to draw up and cut a CNC ply frame to suit , that the 12mm corian glues to.
When sending them to people they get a mould kit , they glue them selves.
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 09:48 PM
AvB
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Understood, but the glass laminated ply backing method I've used here is is the method I chose to use after careful consideration. To each his own, I guess - we all have our own reasons for choosing how we go about things. In this case I avoided buying stuff and made do pretty much with what I had. The cutting of the ply and the Corian was time well spent; good practice at setting about a task and working out how to do it ... good for getting more comfortable with Rhino and Madcam and using the machine. Just drawing up the shape of the ply blocks and having it all come together and fit together nicely was a buzz. When on Saturday I put the 2 finished mould halves together and the alignment holes lined up perfectly, I offered up a prayer of thanks and felt like I'd graduated from kindy. Yay. Plus, the glass lamination makes for a very stiff and very tough material - if you were rough on a full Corian mould and overclamped it on an obstruction you could crack it, but you couldn't possibly crack moulds made this way. And the weight is good. And the cost is low. If I buggered it up, I could have machined the Corian back off and stuck new pieces on and started again.
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Old Jul 13, 2014, 10:54 PM
ETS....Energy retention system
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It Totally agree ... Your moulds are great and extremely strong and very durable. And was a fantastic way of getting to know the ins and outs of using your machine.
And they would be next to impossible to break.

I must have my wires crossed as I thought this was about how you want to do mould in the future for other people to make it easier and more time efficient and cheaper to make. Doing the whole process in one go would be a a massive time saver for you , and you are a very busy guy.
Clamping on freestyle or corian is a non issue when using threaded rod and plate set up.
Just think your worrying about durability of freestyle or corian to much. There are plenty of full corian moulds around the world and no one seams to have any issues. Even here , WH30 , windburner , fluid , gizmo 2m
I guess the main issue is just the amount of dihedral the scratcho has , as you might no be able to fit it on 30mm anyway ???
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Old Jul 15, 2014, 05:50 PM
AvB
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I have to (excitedly) post this pic.

I found a spare hour last night to start wet sanding one of the mould halves. It was amazing, the fine surface texture disappeared so fast with a short rub with 400 grit. I made some custom shaped blocks with hard blue foam and even those steps I felt bad about, due to re-cuts with changes in cutter height due to heat expansion, sanded away really quite easily. A long rub with 400, then shorter with 800, then a hand rub with 1200 and I didn't have time to do any more. It was still wet, but this morning giving it a rub up with a rag, I was rewarded with this. I still have to do the 2000 and liquid polish, but this is already excellent!
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Old Jul 15, 2014, 11:28 PM
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Looks fantastic!!!!! Going to be some nice wings come out of there. Hope you don't have any stick-ups
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Old Jul 16, 2014, 02:40 AM
ETS....Energy retention system
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Very cool Andrew. That's the best thing about using corian or freestyle.
From a rough mould to a nice shinny mould is only some wet rubbing.
Top stuff , you have come a long way in a short time
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Old Jul 16, 2014, 03:02 AM
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Looking great mate,

Is the machine running the next part whilst you polish? They are a real time saver, anythings possible. When you compare it to making models a decade or less ago, you wonder how you did with out. Is the learning curve starting to seem worthwhile?
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Old Jul 16, 2014, 03:07 AM
AvB
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Mick, I don't have a next part to work on yet! Very slow steps. Very little spare time just lately with work being busy, which is frustrating. Geoff S is drawing up the new fuz, fin and stab shapes so when we finish with those I'll have another thing to cut. I'll get tied up with building the first wing as soon as I get the time.
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Old Jul 16, 2014, 03:34 AM
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don't worry you'll soon get a system going. As we were talking about sometimes its easier to let the machine run for longer to reduce the hand finishing time. You'll have to get a layup robot did you see the williams factory on ch1 the other day
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Old Jul 26, 2014, 03:08 AM
AvB
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Very proud junior machinist here. (old but junior).

I owed Brent for the servo he pulled out of his Windburner to fix my Angry Bird on the hill recently ... but he said he'd wipe the debt if I'd cut a servo tray to fix his broken Schwing. He sent me the drawing, and I finally got out to the shed today to have a go. Been a busy week ... all the stuff from last Sunday's Bald Knob visit was still dumped on the benches.

I used Vectric Aspire rather than Rhino/ Madcam, simply because Aspire has a tabs function. Probably didn't need that in the end, but it was a good opportunity to give myself an Aspire refresher.

I got some 2.5mm ply and sandwiched 2 pieces, laminated with 3 Oz glass in between and either side, using fast epoxy. Peel ply, paper towel and laminating film either side and pressed it between MDF offcuts with weights. Now here's a klutz thing - when I peeled it open this arvo, I accidentally grabbed a glass layer with the peel ply and it pulled off easily (being still green) so I lost one outside glass layer! ARrggh. That's why in the photo below you can see one has a glassed surface whereas the other one is upside down and is a clean ply surface.

Stuck the laminated piece down on a board using 3M77, and ran the cuts twice.

Easy and impressive! The fibreglass looks a bit fuzzy at the edge (probably due to cutting it while the epoxy's green) but the cut itself is sharp.
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Old Jul 26, 2014, 04:24 AM
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Great work. That's really showing its value for little things like that
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Old Jul 26, 2014, 05:33 AM
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Hey, that looks great! I'm pleased I could get you to do something small and detailed without to much effort! Would have been a rough job if I'd had a go with ply.
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Old Jul 26, 2014, 11:47 PM
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Nice work on those parts. I'm not sure if this helps, but if anyone would like to have their parts laser cut, we own several laser cutters here at my facility. We can whip those parts up in a few minutes. You can email me at jason (at) Cinema Oxide dot com
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Old Jul 27, 2014, 02:07 AM
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Oxide, whereabouts are you ? You can enter your location in your profile, so that others will see it in your posts.
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