Just a heads up. I've seen people making this mistake already.

Option 4 of the setup menu allows you to set the limits for both the tail and the cyclic. For the cyclic don't use this limit to set the amount of cyclic you want, use it to stop any servo binding. I left the roll and pitch limits at the defaults.

The reason for this is that even though the ZYX will give you as much cyclic as collective, on the pitch gauge, it is not the case in flight. The stick input is more like the tail and puts an error into the gyro to make it move at a certain rate. Because the helicopter does not move on the ground the cyclic will travel all the way to the limit, but in the air this is not the case. As soon as the helicopter is rolling or pitching at the required rate, it will stop adding any more cyclic.

If you used this setting to limit the cyclic to 7 degrees then at 7 degrees the gyro looses it ability to put in more than 7 degrees to maintain the stability of the helicopter or to get it rolling faster to the required rate.

So like the tail use dual rates, if you need to, to set the sensitivity of the cyclic.

I hope this makes sense.

Originally Posted by Tipstar

Hi beenflying,

Thanks for advice.
I am going to try those optimization on this weekend.

I have a　question.
Is spindle shaft of the Taort 250FL compatible with the Microheli head?

Thanks,

Glad I could help. I don't know about the spindle shaft but I suspect it could be the same. The dimensions of the head look very similar and I suspect it's a copy of the Microheli head.

If you can find a spare parts list for the Microheli, check out the blade holder bearing sizes, and see if they are a 3mm inner.

http://www.completeheli.com/MicroHel...ss-MH-TX2002SS

It certainly looks like it but you get washers and better looking screws.

Originally Posted by Tipstar

Is spindle shaft of the Taort 250FL compatible with the Microheli head?

This would seem to indicate it is:
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=7632
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...b617653c7083a1
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=7633

I've been able to get my Tarot 250 head sorted - glued the bearings in and thread-locked the bolts, and done some of the set-up on the system menu, but had to stop as my servos (Hitec HS-45s) seem to be mis-behaving. They have got jittery around centre - I checked them on a servo tester and it seems to be the servos not the ZYX as they do it on the tester as well .

I have got all of the servos moving in the correct direction, but I have to say that it is nowhere near as easy and intuitive as a Beastx for me .

Sorry to hear about the servos, Mike. I take it with those servos you have servo type set to 1, 2 or 4. Anything else could damage the servos.

Can you expand a bit on the difficulty setting up. I've never used a MB, so it would be interesting to hear from someone that has.

Coming from the 3GYS, it seemed pretty straight forward, except for the dead time, while it was flashing the LEDs.

I had the servos set up as analogues and they work fine on large movements, it's just when making small movements around centre that they jitter - and they behave exactly the same on the servo tester as well.

I may be being unfair about the set-up, some of the challenge springs from the poor manual. Simple things like confusing servo reversing and channel reversing didn't help when I was sorting out the servo directions, but also things such as setting cyclic and collective ranges - on the Beastx you just tell it what 6 degrees of pitch is and how much collective you want and it will sort it out - no need to count clicks etc.. Perhaps once I have better familiarity with the ZYX it will be as easy - I recently upgraded one of my Beastx's to the V3 software - I had to set it up from scratch again and the whole process took about 30 minutes.

Thanks Mike. Yes the manual could be better.

When it came to setting the collective range, I just put the digital pitch gauge on, set the stick to full pitch, and then held the rudder stick in either direction until I had it sitting on exactly 12 degrees. No need to count the steps, and holding the stick gives you a repeating increment or decrement. Then check negative is also 12 degrees and if not, adjust both the blade arm pushrods and collective range until the collective is equal.

Edit: If you want to reduce collective later on you can uses you pitch curve to do this, by making full pitch less than 100% and full negative greater than 0, or you can use you pitch EPAs.

I also moved my cyclic balls in on the servo arms by one hole, from where it was for FB (outer hole on the blade arms).

Make sure you read this post:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=46

Good flight video of the ZYX on a miniTitan:

Tarot ZYX flybarless (3 min 24 sec)

Originally Posted by beenflying

This would seem to indicate it is:
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=7632
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...b617653c7083a1
http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=7633

Wow! catalogs are updated. The notes about compatibility are added.

Note:
The Main Grip, Feathering Shaft and Rotor Housing are compatable with MICROHELI MH-TX2002F.
Replace parts, please select TL25104, TL25105 and TL25102.
TL25106 is compatable with Align H25106

It seems that there is still no sale in Head SYSTEM.
Probably, the range of the price is 25 to 30 dollars...

250FL Main Rotor Housing Set/Sliver TL25104 $8.95
250FL Feathering Shaft TL25102 $2.99
250FL Main Rotor Holder Set/Sliver TL25105 $14.69
250FL Radius Arm Set Assembly TL25106 $9.69
-----------------------------------------------------------
Total $36.32

Thanks,

Actually I think that I owe the ZYX an apology with a little more familiarisation it is going much more smoothly - the main problem is the manual. With the very useful info that BF has put here and on HF + the tips from iflyraptors on HF I now have my new servos fitted and all moving, and correcting, in the correct direction. iflyraptors has produced some very useful crib sheets that cut through some of the Engrish in the manual, they are here http://www.raptortechnique.com/tarot/Tarot%20ZYX.pdf , other ZYX stuff from iflyraptors here http://www.raptortechnique.com/tarot/ .

BF - I'm afraid that I'm pinching your mounting idea - yours looks very neat , I have a spare frame bottom so I have set that up with the gyro mounting in the top holes (now CA'ed in place), the ZYX upside down and stuck there, and the Rx on the bottom plate - I'll post some pics when it is finished. Your wiring is neater than mine still though - did you cut down the ZYX to Rx leads ??.

Cheers,
Mike.

I'm glad you like the mounting method I used. I was very please to get it all inside the frame. I was pretty convinced to start with that either the gyro or the Rx would have to go on the outside, until I remembered the gyro tray could be moved up.

I didn't cut down the gyro to Rx leads. I ran them forward, under the motor and then back to the Rx.

Looking forward to seeing your install.

Here we go - it looks a bit of a mess in the pics, but it's not as bad "in the flesh", it's tough with these tiddlers though - no room

Looks good, Mike. Yeah, the camera has a bad habit of making the wires stand out against the black parts.

So are you all ready to fly?

Make sure you double check the swash tries to stay level when you tilt the heli and the piro optimization is correct. Sorry to keep reiterating this but I've heard of too many crashing first flight, with other FBL systems, through having this wrong.

Edit: Sorry, I forgot you already have other FBL systems.

I determined mount of GYRO as the left side.
The change parameter from the pre- setup.

system menu: direction of gyro-----Direction 3
setup menu: Gyro Compensation Direction----roll axis : negative

Thanks,

Originally Posted by beenflying

Looks good, Mike. Yeah, the camera has a bad habit of making the wires stand out against the black parts.

So are you all ready to fly?

Make sure you double check the swash tries to stay level when you tilt the heli and the piro optimization is correct. Sorry to keep reiterating this but I've heard of too many crashing first flight, with other FBL systems, through having this wrong.

Edit: Sorry, I forgot you already have other FBL systems.

Yep - ready to go, finished it off yesterday evening and hoping to maiden later today. I've checked the tail and cyclic correction + prio optimisation 3 or 4 times .

The only things that I haven't adjusted are things like tail / pitch mix, the cyclic gains and the collective / cyclic pitch settings which I tend to do by "feel" on small helis