Thank you SPRINGER
You see, I am an old guy, How about 78 and counting.But having fun.
Have to squeeze the RC stuff in between all the other hobbies.
SARG5

Originally Posted by mav913

Hi Sarg5, You can use the foam safe CA without a problem but most guys are using the white Gorilla Glue. A few are experimenting with Foam Tack at the moment also.

Paint wise you can use the non-water based paint as long as you spray from approx. 12+ inches away so that the thinner in the paint disperses before hitting the foam. I've used Krylon rattle cans this way and it does not harm the foam. I would strongly suggest using the water based craft paints though as there is a HUGE selection it's less expensive, sprays well through an airbrush, or can be applied with a brush. I have had no problems with it flaking off any of my planes yet.
Hope this helps.

John

I got a good tip from the CrashCast... the sample-sized paints from Home Depot, etc are a pretty good deal and work well in the cheap Harbor Freight airbrushes when mixed 50/50 with water. And you can color-match the shades.



http://eastbay-rc.blogspot.com/2012/...-eggshell.html

Originally Posted by SARG5

Thank you SPRINGER
You see, I am an old guy, How about 78 and counting.But having fun.
Have to squeeze the RC stuff in between all the other hobbies.
SARG5

78! Congrats! I'm only 65, but having similar problems! Tough this getting old, ain't it? Foam sure helps, tho!

Originally Posted by rcrich

Any pics of it Sounds cool!

After I test fly it I'll put a picture on the Snowball thread.

Originally Posted by springer

78! Congrats! I'm only 65, but having similar problems! Tough this getting old, ain't it? Foam sure helps, tho!

Being only a youthful 50, you guys are a real inspiration!

Our oldest flying club member is 92 now. He started aeromodelling in 1938!

Geeezzz, I never imagined I'd ever feel like a kid again. Boy was I wrong........LOL

Kids!

I have read through most of the posts in this thread - but not all. So if this has been posted before, please forgive.

The measured density of MPF is 2.25 lb/cuft (from www.modelplanefoam.com/index.php/about-the-product/)

Using the charts from DepronFoam.com (www.depronfoam.com/depron-foam/depron_technical.html), here is a side by side comparison of the densities (Depron's are given in kg/cumeter - so I used a conversion calculator).

Depron Classic (crunchy) -- 6mm: 2.06 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.50 lb/cuft
Depron Aero (F3P stuff) --- 6mm: 1.74 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.06 lb/cuft
Model Plane Foam ---------- 6mm: 2.25 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.25 lb/cuft (sliced)

I ordered my box of MPF on Saturday, and I do intend to slice some down to 3mm with my hot wire cutter. If Adams ever makes a 3mm version of this stuff, it will probably be more than 2.25 lb/cuft, but I think this stuff will be very competitive to typical Depron uses (most modellers don't buy the Aero version). I can't wait to see how it slices and mills.

On laminating with WBPU:

So I was laminating some pieces this week using a minwax WBPU spray. The first time I didn't spray enough, and didn't put my pressure piece correctly (to keep it together) so it didn't really stick, it was patchy. Since most of it wasn't glued, I just peeled it off. (it was a small piece maybe 1 foot by 5 inches).
Then I really sprayed it on with the WBPU, to make sure it was plenty wet before putting it together. That was too much
Not only did it overflow everywhere (leaving yellow marks) but I now also have a week spot in the foam (you can feel it spongy as you press it together, so the spray ate a bit of the foam on one spot (incidentally it was the spot that had glued before).
I don't know if it's the spray propellant (I sprayed like a foot away) or the varnish itself in too much quantity that did it, but here it is, FYI.

I have done many pieces before and somehow I never sprayed incorrectly (not enough or too much). Thus my recommendation now is to spray so that it looks wet, shiny and even, but not more. As usual practice makes perfect, but it is sensitive to not enough or too much, just so you know.

I haven't tried with can and brush yet.

Originally Posted by scottyo

I have read through most of the posts in this thread - but not all. So if this has been posted before, please forgive.

The measured density of MPF is 2.25 lb/cuft (from www.modelplanefoam.com/index.php/about-the-product/)

Using the charts from DepronFoam.com (www.depronfoam.com/depron-foam/depron_technical.html), here is a side by side comparison of the densities (Depron's are given in kg/cumeter - so I used a conversion calculator).

Depron Classic (crunchy) -- 6mm: 2.06 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.50 lb/cuft
Depron Aero (F3P stuff) --- 6mm: 1.74 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.06 lb/cuft
Model Plane Foam ---------- 6mm: 2.25 lb/cuft ; 3mm: 2.25 lb/cuft (sliced)

I ordered my box of MPF on Saturday, and I do intend to slice some down to 3mm with my hot wire cutter. If Adams ever makes a 3mm version of this stuff, it will probably be more than 2.25 lb/cuft, but I think this stuff will be very competitive to typical Depron uses (most modellers don't buy the Aero version). I can't wait to see how it slices and mills.

Density of these foam materials is not precise. It seems to commonly vary +-10% and even +-20% is not rare.

Originally Posted by bz1mcr

Density of these foam materials is not precise. It seems to commonly vary +-10% and even +-20% is not rare.

I am just glad there is a good alternative to Depron now - I don't like how easily it breaks. Whenever I do build with it, I usually use EPP in the nose (or in the entire fuselage) for crash protection - I crash sometimes...

After I build another Infineon with this stuff, I hope to redo my Slow Ride completely with Model Plane Foam. My original has an EPP fuse with 3mm depron flying surfaces (I will use 6mm MPF for those this time). I can't wait to get my box!

Scottyo: I noticed an order when checked last night, so If it's yours, it'll be at UPS tomorrow about mid day. Enjoy your foam!

Michael: I'd have to guess that the propellant is the culprit there. MPF is just as susceptible to solvents as FFF and other styrene foams. It seems that many rattle cans are using propane as propellant, now that we can't use fluorocarbons, so wouldn't be surprised. I found that with the Krylon H2O paints, even though the paint doesn't affect the foam, the propellant does, so we still have the problem. Nice to know that the wbpu works when the technique is zoned in, though. I've got some wbpu floor varnish that I have to try out as an adhesive on a future plane. Would think that it wouldn't have the attack problem as no propellant.

Seems like I recall using WBPU clear varnish like stuff that was pretty thin and watery
appearing. It Worked well to protect foam for later spray color applications.
As it was SO thin I brushed it on with no streaking.

I think it was Olympic or Valspar.

Bob
Hoosier Cutout Service

Originally Posted by marhar

I got a good tip from the CrashCast... the sample-sized paints from Home Depot, etc are a pretty good deal and work well in the cheap Harbor Freight airbrushes when mixed 50/50 with water. And you can color-match the shades.



http://eastbay-rc.blogspot.com/2012/...-eggshell.html

I have used the Home Depot Sample size paint.
Try Home Depot MARTHA STEWART. paints. With this paint, HD has a much wider selection of bright colors. Goes on much bette for cover.
Take a look
SARG5

All I can say is watch the weight of these paints. I ruined two otherwise wonderful flying WWII planes by using house paint. There is alot more surface area behind the CG than in front of it.

Ken