Hi Tom,

Yes on the 2 position switch, I have mine setup that same way, just on and off. You can also program in a gain control knob to fine tune it from your radio.

Nils

Nils, I got it working. I plugged the Mode plug into the gear channel on my AR6115e receiver. Will it automatically work for off and 2D or is there something I need to do. I absolutely do not want 3D on my Autogyro. All Guardian corrections were working, and luckily, in the right directions. The rudder would make corrections as well so was I in 2D or 3D. I couldn't see the led blinking because I was in real bright sunlight in my work room. What do I plug the gain plug into, the Aux1 on the receiver? If so, how do I get the twist knob on the top right hand side of my DX8 to operate that gain function? I just got this radio and have no idea how all this stuff works. The gains on the Guardian are what the were set at from the factory and seemed to move the surfaces quite a bit. If you wish to take this to e mails and not mess up this thread my e mail addy is: elainesmith@suddenlink.net

Hi Tom,

I will hook up my computer to the Guardian in the morning and send you the settings for 2D only, my radio is the Futaba 9C, not sure about the Spectrum as far as programming goes but it should work fine, probably only a bit different in the way to setup the radio. To select between 2D, 3D and off modes is only how you program your aux channel, +100, 0, -100.
Picture a servo hooked up to aux channel, when you select OFF the arm should be centered, 2D mode should rotate in one direction and 3D mode to the other. As you mentioned you don't want any 3D mode, assign your 2 way switch so OFF would center the servo and ON will move it to one side, in this case the 2D mode. This is also how the remote gain knob is setup. On a Spectrum radio you have to figure out how to map the channels with the switches you want for these functions, the gear switch is great for the ON/OFF control and any other knob for the gain will work fine. Maybe someone reading this who is familiar with the DX8 can jump in and help out with the radio programming.

I will get back to you on my settings in the morning.

Thanks,
Nils

The more I mess with it the less it works. Got 2d and 3s on the gear switch but no off. Then I tried messing with the gain on different switches and now nothing works. I'm an old dog trying to learn new tricks, so be patient please. I just read the DX8 book from cover to cover and no where in there does it explain how to map anything to anything. They assume you were born with a computer chip up your you know what. When I started as a Civil Engineer back in the early 60s we still used sliderules to build highways and bridges. One guy in my office had a calculator and it did add, subtract, multiply and divide, for the whopping price of $375. It was as big as his lunchbox.

Hang in there Tom, it took me a few times to get the programming right.

If you ever programmed a radio for a helicopter heading hold gyro it is the same way. Sometimes it is easier to connect servos to the receiver for the channels you want to program so you can see exactly what is happening when you flip a switch or turn a knob. I will be heading out to the workshop in a while and will get back to you.

Nils

Nils, I got it working again. I simply did a full reset for that model # and started from scratch again. I went in and changed the setting on the gear channel and now I have on/off and 2D. Perfect. Now I need to figure out how to get the gain working from the Aux 3 twist knob. Not absolutely necessary, but it might come in handy. This autogyro is pretty easy to fly, my only issue is once in a while loosing orientation. With the gains set from the factory willl I be able to fly it around without it fighting me all the time. I would assume being able to adjust the gain in flight would be helpful in that situation.

Addendum: My radio manual said that in the switch select settings an auxiliary port can only be used once. That was the key. The default has Aux1 mapped to the Flap switch. Aux3 defaults to the twist knob. By inhibiting Aux 1 in Flap I was able to use Aux 1 in Knob so now it works as I hoped. I did as someone suggested and plugged a servo into the Aux1 port and could see it physically moving as I twisted the knob. Wooho. then I plugged the gain plug into Aux 1 on the receiver and the twist knob worked to increase or lower the gain. Now to reset the trims and go fly the crazy thing. Tom
Maybe I aint as dumb as I sometimes feel.

Tom, that's good news. It would benefit you to get the gain setting to work from the transmitter, you can then adjust the gyro so it will not fight you.

On my transmitter I have assigned the gear switch to ch6, 0% and 100%,
the gain control knob is assigned to ch5, 100&, 0%, 100%. The gains on the Guardian, for Yaw, Roll and Pitch are set as follows:

Yaw 100%, Roll 70%, Pitch 70%.

I have attached some PDF documents to show how I set it up in the Guardian software, on the general page I use elevon mixing, on yours you need to un-check this.

Nils

I appreciate seeing those files. I will fly it as is and see how it goes. I have plenty of flights on this thing so it really isn't a big issue, but as my age increases my reflexes seem to be decreasing and I just wanted somethign like this for insurance. Actually, I'm just to lazy to build another one in the event of a total loss. Been building for 50 years and simply tired of it. Thanks again Nils. Tom

Nils, I have destroyed my HK Auto-G several times due to the orientation problems mentioned by others and I have purchased the Guardian to help alivate that problem. Would you post some pics of how you mounted the Guardian? Also, I'm trying to figure out what straight and level is for initial setting - doesn't the gyro always fly with a nose-high attitude, even in "level" flight? Is how it sits on the ground "straight and level"?

My Gyro Shtick flies flat. The rotor mast is tilted back allowing the oncoming air to spin the blades. Your model may be different than mine. Tom

Hello cseal,

orientation is what gets me in trouble too. I am headed to work and will post some pictures this evening if it will help. I am not familiar with the HK gyro but as far as I would guess it should fly straight and level, I always use the horizontal stabilizer for a reference point. The Guardian (if setup properly) will keep your model straight and level by centering the sticks or switch it on in times of trouble to buy some time to readjust your thoughts.

As it sits on the ground is not the way it should fly but the extra rear tilt helps to get the rotors turning when taxiing.

Thanks,
Nils

You guys can't imagine how good it feels to know that I am not the only one with orientation issues while flying autogyros. Hopefully Guardian will save us some grief and let us enjoy this unique facet of model aviation. Tom

Here are some pictures how I mounted the Guardian in my RPG. I built a hard case for the Guardian, I didn't like the soft one. It is mounted on the floor of the RPG which is parallel to the horizontal stabilizer. On the initial setup I use the bubble level when setting up for level flight, after that there is no need for any calibration or adjustments, it just works.

Nils

Hi Nils. Where did you place the bubble level, on the stab? That is how I set mine up and will test fly it either tomorrow or Saturday. I put a few dozen flights on it in the past but again, was afraid of destroying it because of orientation issues so I just stopped flying it. I used the thin Transparent Velcro that comes in the little blister packs. Each part is about 1/32" thick.. I mean it is really thin and in being so there is no movement of the Guardian. The original
Velcro we all know and love has to much loft to it and thus could allow some movement. Mine is simply affixed to the bottom of my radio compartment. I had to use the thin stuff because the way my servos are attached to the lower part of my mast the thick Velcro was letting the bottom of one of the servos press down against the top of the Guardian. Yea, it's that tight in there. Tom