I notice that hxelepro360 is listing a #11 with a "72 degree view", that would be a bit more than than has been mentioned (without an auxiliary lens) from the past testing. I searched the thread for info on that and don't find any. Does anyone know anything about it? I didn't see any mention at ChuckLohr either.

I was curious if that angle might have a little bit of "fisheye" look to it. Or if there have been any other quality issues with it.

Thanks for any help,

Jack

Originally Posted by RCRobbie

I recorded my first video mounted to my T-28. Id there anyway to limit video bounce? It's real bad at full throttle. Thanks!

A video of what you are talking about would help. If it's just waviness in the video, it's vibration caused. Balance the prop for starters. Even then, the motor rotor can be out of balance, but there should be certain motor speeds where the waviness pretty much disappears, and speeds where it is worse (e.g. WOT). Mount the camera securely to a portion of the plane that does not vibrate or oscillate in flight... the fuse is a good place usually. I use tape with a pad of bubble wrap between the camera and fuselage as a cushion. Velcro, by itself, can hold a motor with a lot of force to remove it, but is not necessarily good at holding the camera steady if there are vibrations in the power system.

what is a good stabilizing sofwhare to get rid of bounce not vibration that wont degrade the quality?

Originally Posted by jackerbes

I notice that hxelepro360 is listing a #11 with a "72 degree view", that would be a bit more than than has been mentioned (without an auxiliary lens) from the past testing. I searched the thread for info on that and don't find any. Does anyone know anything about it? I didn't see any mention at ChuckLohr either.

I was curious if that angle might have a little bit of "fisheye" look to it. Or if there have been any other quality issues with it.

Thanks for any help,

Jack

I've not heard or seen any video from one of those, and I wonder if it is really a different lens! We measure the AOV to be about 58.2deg. early in the thread based on the corner-to-corner distance of the image captured in a video frame and the distance of the camera from the object. But this is not necessarily the AOV published for a lens. Realistically, the lens AOV has to be bigger than the frame corner-to-corner distance by a good margin to keep vignetting minimized. I don't think there would be any significant fisheye effect with a 72 deg. AOV lens.

If any one has one of these "72 deg." versions, maybe you can post a video and comment on it? A wider AOV should reduce the vignetting we see with all the current videos posted here.

Originally Posted by ROCKY2

what is a good stabilizing sofwhare to get rid of bounce not vibration that wont degrade the quality?

There isn't any (IMHO). Post processing image stabilization has to move video frames around to reduce the apparent motion. So this will cause the image to go "out of the frame" of the video, creating black margins. Alternatively, the image must be digitally zoomed in slightly to eliminate those blackened border areas, causing the scene to zoom in and out slightly... an annoying and un-natural effect to my eye. And big bounces in video are blurred images to begin with... not much quality to start out with. But some are OK with these artifacts, so YMMV.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I've not heard or seen any video from one of those, and I wonder if it is really a different lens! We measure the AOV to be about 58.2deg. early in the thread based on the corner-to-corner distance of the image captured in a video frame and the distance of the camera from the object. But this is not necessarily the AOV published for a lens. Realistically, the lens AOV has to be bigger than the frame corner-to-corner distance by a good margin to keep vignetting minimized. I don't think there would be any significant fisheye effect with a 72 deg. AOV lens.

If any one has one of these "72 deg." versions, maybe you can post a video and comment on it? A wider AOV should reduce the vignetting we see with all the current videos posted here.

Thanks for the details, Tom. I've been needing a real #11 for a while so I just ordered the one I linked to. I'll post a sample when I get it (10-15 days or so).

Jack

Originally Posted by kencamp

I have the Audi model... Yellow LED stays bright.

I also have the Jumbo Audi model. After short-pressing the Power button, the Yellow LED comes on for 1 minute and then turns off automatically if no other button is pressed.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

There isn't any (IMHO). Post processing image stabilization has to move video frames around to reduce the apparent motion. So this will cause the image to go "out of the frame" of the video, creating black margins. Alternatively, the image must be digitally zoomed in slightly to eliminate those blackened border areas, causing the scene to zoom in and out slightly... an annoying and un-natural effect to my eye. And big bounces in video are blurred images to begin with... not much quality to start out with. But some are OK with these artifacts, so YMMV.

oh okay

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

A video of what you are talking about would help. If it's just waviness in the video, it's vibration caused. Balance the prop for starters. Even then, the motor rotor can be out of balance, but there should be certain motor speeds where the waviness pretty much disappears, and speeds where it is worse (e.g. WOT). Mount the camera securely to a portion of the plane that does not vibrate or oscillate in flight... the fuse is a good place usually. I use tape with a pad of bubble wrap between the camera and fuselage as a cushion. Velcro, by itself, can hold a motor with a lot of force to remove it, but is not necessarily good at holding the camera steady if there are vibrations in the power system.

Here is the video. The camera is being held on by velcro right behind the prop. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

PZ Trojan Onboard Video - Keychain Camera (7 min 48 sec)

The horizontal black lines are your propeller.

The wiggliness of the actual images is caused by vibration. It *looks* to me like a lower frequency wiggle than I usually see from the motor/propeller. Make sure the prop is balanced. Make sure the mounting is secure. You might need to introduce something (e.g. foam) to damp vibrations before they get to the camera.

What RCRobbie is experiencing is called the Rolling Shutter Effekt. It causes the propeller to show as a kind of desoriented vertical lines. Also the wobble/jello effect is caused by the same phenomenon of the camera reacting to the vibrations while in flight. A good example can be seen here.

You need to decouple the cam from the plane for example by using some soft adhesive foam, gel, bubblewrap or whatever you can think of.
I build myself a small anti vibration tube where the camera floats freely inside secured by some rubber bands. Unfortunately the effect is rather small and big bumps still get through (using it for kitesurfing and mountainboarding) so its more like a good shock absorbant to prevent the camera from heavy crashes....which happen from time to time

If you use some Video editing software you can try out some deshaker algorithm for example there is a good deshaker for VirtualDub or the build in deshaker of other programms. Those work great with some hard shakes from a bumpy road or else but they tend to struggle with the jello/wobbly effect and need a lot of fine tuning. I would rather build a better mount for the camera then spending so much time on the pc to get one shot right. The more time you put in making the video the less time you need for post-processing.

Originally Posted by Tom Frank

I just got an email this AM from one of the listed eBay sellers about a "big sale" of the #11 HD. I don't know if this is true or not... the links provided don't seem to show discounted prices. I sent back an email for clarification... no reply yet. FYI... here is the text from the email FWIW:

So sorry to disturb you,i'm the service of the ebay shop "eletech086" http://stores.ebay.co.uk/eletech086 here is our website linking : www.htinter.com

.......
.......
Hongbin Yuan

C1108 Shuxinju

Jinhuixinyuan

No.104 Eling South Rd

Huizhou city, Guangdong province

China

0752-2562509

Had same one.
Mike

ROCKY2 wrote:

"..get rid of bounce not vibration..."

You'll have to show us what a video with "bounce not vibration" looks like. If it is the "swimming" motion like is seen in the video that RCRobbie posted above, that is from vibration. The camera gets into a harmonic vibration with the vibrations caused by the motor. You can see the effects can come and go with changes in the motor RPM and when the motor is stopped.

I've had good luck using a length of short 1/8" bungee cord as the pulling tension on that can be adjusted. That will hold the camera solidly in place. If the surface it is on has vibrations in it too, you can put a pieces of 1/4" RC foam between the camera and the mount and that will isolate the camera from the vibration in the wing.

The white block seen there sets the look down angle and has Velcro hooks on one side and loops on the other, the camera has loops on it's back. So the angle block attaches to the wing, the camera attaches to the angle block, and then the bungee cord pulls it all together and holds it that way.

The look angle there is the 22 degree one, I have another block that is 18 degrees. The higher you fly the steeper you want to look down to see what is below you. Too steep and too low and everything moves through the camera's view too quickly...

Jack

I

Can anyone have any software for just "cutting" .mov files of this CAM?

I try to install virtuadob, also copy files "QuickTime64.vdplugin" and "QuickTime.vdplugin" into file "plugins", but when I import .mov file into VDub, there is only sound.

Any ideas, or any other program for quick cutting .mov files.(Output must be .mov)

thanks

Originally Posted by gbagels

Thanks for your reply. Yup, I tried reflashing the same file that worked in the other camera, but no luck. I'm afraid I didn't try any videos longer than a minute or so before I flashed the firmware to remove the date, so I don't know if it worked originally.

George

Later--Tried three more times to reflash. After the last attempt, everything seems to be fine! Many thanks.

George