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Old Sep 01, 2014, 09:35 PM
Three green
Joined Oct 2007
139 Posts
Build Log
Jerry Bates 1/5.6 Sea Fury build

This is my first scale project and it is going to be a serious challenge for me. I've built several kits before, but never anything like this. I'm not going for a high degree of scale detail, but rather just a nice warbird that flies well. For example im not planning on a retract on the tail due to the large weight penalty. I have purchased the plans, the canopy, and cowl from Jerry, and the wood parts kit from Bob Holman.

These are the specs
Scale: 1/5.6, Wingspan: 81.25
Length: 72, Weight: 18 24 lbs.
Power: ST3250 G45

This is the goal
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This is what I have so far
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More to follow
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Old Sep 02, 2014, 05:39 AM
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Australia, ACT, Canberra
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Old Sep 02, 2014, 08:45 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
38 Posts
Hi, throw away or sell the Super Tiger that was all we had in the old days.
G45 very good engine but side carb and side exhaust.
When running an engine upside down you need a pumped carb like a walbro etc. they were designed for chain saws and give positive fuel in all positions also you need a spark that will give positive ignition against a glow plug upside down that may on a a good day supply the glow if its not drowned by fuel.
I am running a DLE55 gas in a 25 Pounds 81 inch me109 and its a very good match foe weight and power.
All warbirds end up tail heavy and you have to add nose weight so put a heaver engine in instead.
If it was me i would put in the rear exhaust DLE55 with rear carb..
If in Australia custom retracts.
The above advice comes from experience learnt the hard way.
Dave.
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Old Sep 03, 2014, 02:04 AM
Three green
Joined Oct 2007
139 Posts
I'm on day one of seven 12 hr shifts right now so I won't be getting much done for a while.
I did get a bit done before work tonight. I got the rest of the nose ribs installed that make up the stepped shape of the leading edge. I still need to put the 1/4 square forward part of the leading edge on.
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These 1/2 inch thick nose ribs didn't come with the parts kit but they were easy to make. They give some material to be shaped when the skin is on to round the leading edge step out
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Old Sep 07, 2014, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CT-7 View Post
These 1/2 inch thick nose ribs didn't come with the parts kit but they were easy to make. They give some material to be shaped when the skin is on to round the leading edge step out
From what I understand, it's nearly impossible to laser cut half inch think balsa. So, yeah, no one would include that part in a laser cut kit.
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Old Sep 10, 2014, 08:40 AM
Three green
Joined Oct 2007
139 Posts
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Originally Posted by Nergall View Post
From what I understand, it's nearly impossible to laser cut half inch think balsa. So, yeah, no one would include that part in a laser cut kit.
That makes sense. I wasn't complaining about the parts kit. Im very happy with Bob Holman's kit.

I got a bit more done yesterday. Got the forward leading edge 1/4 square on, and the lower spars glued to the dihedral braces. Thats all good. I went at sanding the tops of the ribs in prep for the skin and realized that the outboard ribs on the centre section are sitting lower at the front than they should be. Thier slots in the dihedral brace must have been deeper. This is looking down the rib from aft at the fwd dihedral brace. Its about .040 inch or so.
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My worry is that this rib is essentially the inboard rib of the outer wing pannel, so is this going to build in some washout? Its the same on both sides. Any suggestions?
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Old Sep 10, 2014, 01:09 PM
Three green
Joined Oct 2007
139 Posts
I've been looking it over and I dont think its gonna be an issue. The dihedral brace extends out to the next rib on the outer panel, so while that one section by that rib on each side will be turned down slightly, the rest of the outer panel should be indexed by the brace and all should be straight. I put a staight edge over the ribs at the front and its more like 20 thou low so im gonna move on. Off to get some 3/32 balsa fo skin..
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