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Old Sep 23, 2010, 07:50 AM
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Ceros007's Avatar
Montreal, Québec, Canada
Joined Apr 2010
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On 3ch, tail give forward and backward flight.
On 4ch coax, you don't even have a tail motor.
On 4ch fixed pitch, tail make you turn.
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 12:21 PM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
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Does Double Horse needs its screwdrivers taken away or what?

I'm trying HARD to think of a toy company spreading more grief.



Got a coaxial helicopter you can't adjust the trim on? Read this.
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Last edited by killbucket; Nov 05, 2010 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 09:44 AM
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Judo JoNny's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
91 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwong3 View Post
Well that' good to know that this model may have a future.

As for the "blade strike", I noticed from looking at a photo of the 9053 that there is a relatively small distance between top, and bottom blades, compared to other models.

I remember watching a YouTube video of someone modifying their co-axial heli with an extension shaft to increase the distance between to two sets of blades. This just about eliminated the blade strike issue.

Another tip I picked up while reading some of the comments on the videos about the DH 9053 specifically, is that in order to improve the model's ability to fly in breezier conditions, adding about 2 ounces of weight to the front of the chopper will help. Some did this by taping coins or a piece of hardware like a large nut for example to the inside of the front of the cowl or frame. Have any of you ever done this?

I'm pretty tempted on buying one of these as they can be found pretty inexpensively on the net.

Cheers,
Ed
I've read about people adding weight to the nose in order to improve FF in general, and also to provide more movement authority in light winds. I haven't actually tried it myself however. Another poster recommended fitting the flybar from a 9077/9060 which is plastic and reduces bladestrikes, or at least eliminates the ones where the metal bar wraps itself around causing the heli to tumble. Unfortunately that poster has since not returned to this thread...but these are the parts required:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I need a new canopy anyway, so I'll probably pick up these parts as well, and see how it goes.

Thus far I've only experienced the blade strike issue on overly vigorous sweeping turns. Fortunately this heli is remarkably durable, I actually bounced it off the side of my house today (oops) and it took a 15 foot fall onto concrete with no damage, apart from a slightly chipped main blade.
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Judo JoNny's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Aug 2010
91 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkish View Post
the .5 is for the high low speed switch for the tail rotor.
I've seen some online vendors advertise the DH 9053 as a 3.5 citing that reason, but I actually think it's just a gimmick. The first 2 no-name brand 3 ch heli's I purchased in Malaysia also had "3.5" channel plastered over the box, with the vendors in question telling me that the ".5" = it has a gyro.

When I delved further into this new found interest of mine, I asked some people working in hobby stores the same question, and which usually met with a blank stare...much like this --> Haha.

Quote:
Originally Posted by killbucket View Post
Does Double Horse needs its screwdrivers taken away or what?

I'm trying HARD to think of a toy company spreading more grief.
Is Double Horse really that bad? I've only purchased the 9098 and the 9053, but so far both have held up remarkably well.
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 07:20 AM
Smokes
Australia, VIC, Kilsyth
Joined Jul 2007
220 Posts
Just had a thought about the flybar bladestrike problem. Rather than extend the shaft to put the bar further from the lower rotor, why not just shorten the flybar to reduce the chance of it hitting? To compensate for the shorter length you could add a small extra weight to the ends. I have a spare so I might just give it a go. It sounds reasonable to me. Any comments?

Hey Judo Jonny, the canopy responds well to repair with Selleys Plastics Glue, available from Bunnings etc. It comes with a primer/accelerator that you wipe over both sides of the crack inside & out first, then a few drops of the superglue that comes with it. It results in a very strong join and a lot cheaper than buying another canopy. I've broken mine, ummm, 'several' times and it's not the joins that break. The primer also prevents that greying of the superglued joint so it maintains the appearance.

Watch your fingers...
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 06:23 PM
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Joined Sep 2010
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Double Horse 9053 helicopter

Hey guys,
This is my first helicopter and it worked great the first day I flew it, but now it wont get off the ground. It just seems like it doesn't have enough power. I read on here the sometimes the battery wont hold a charge so I bought a new battery and the same thing still happens. It has enough power to run and almost get off the ground but can't. If anyone knows why this is doing so PLEEASE let me know. Thanks!
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 07:33 PM
RC heli junkie
Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
57 Posts
I have just purchased this copter from a local vendor. I can also confirm that the blade strikes are common and the flybar has on more than one occasion ended up looking like spaghetti. To add insult to injury I severly overpaid for it compared to xheli. Now that I have got it back into balance and now feel more confident in my ability to pilot it with its shortcomings, how do I mod this thing!!?? I've seen some people use Camcorder Li-Ion batts for replacements. Any one have links to tutes?

Here is some screnshots I took with my ipod nano before and after it fell off from about 50ft.
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Old Oct 01, 2010, 08:59 PM
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indiana
Joined Aug 2003
22 Posts
this may help some of you with lack of forward flight or lift. the radio the 9053 comes with centers the trims every time its turned on. if you have it trimmed all the way in one direction, the next time you turn it on the trim will use that setting as neutral!! always re-center the trim tabs and knobs before turning it back on.
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Old Oct 02, 2010, 12:07 AM
RC heli junkie
Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
57 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by malibuu View Post
Hey guys,
This is my first helicopter and it worked great the first day I flew it, but now it wont get off the ground. It just seems like it doesn't have enough power. I read on here the sometimes the battery wont hold a charge so I bought a new battery and the same thing still happens. It has enough power to run and almost get off the ground but can't. If anyone knows why this is doing so PLEEASE let me know. Thanks!
I saw a youtube video where the sam ething happens. He had to undo the top rotor and apply a do it yourself fix because the plastic where the blades attach to the metal rotor has come loose.
How to Repair Your R/C Helicopter That Won't Fly (Double Horse 9053 Volitation) (9 min 5 sec)
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Old Oct 02, 2010, 01:14 AM
Smokes
Australia, VIC, Kilsyth
Joined Jul 2007
220 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by malibuu View Post
Hey guys,
This is my first helicopter and it worked great the first day I flew it, but now it wont get off the ground. It just seems like it doesn't have enough power. I read on here the sometimes the battery wont hold a charge so I bought a new battery and the same thing still happens. It has enough power to run and almost get off the ground but can't. If anyone knows why this is doing so PLEEASE let me know. Thanks!
Check the grub screw on the bottom gear, the one that connects to the top rotor. There's a flat on the central vertical shaft that the screw is supposed to mate with. The screw works loose and the top rotor doesn't get any drive. Tighten the screw. All fixed.
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Old Oct 02, 2010, 11:44 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
I bought this model under a different name, but it was a still a Double-Horse Violation.


Got a coaxial helicopter you can't adjust the trim on? Read this.
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Last edited by killbucket; Nov 05, 2010 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Oct 02, 2010, 04:37 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
9,799 Posts
It's a novel approach to getting the plastic secured to the shaft, but if he went to all that trouble, he should have ground off the parts of the nail that are just sticking out there waiting to damage something or someone. Heli's spin at a decent speed and balance is critical. You don't want more weight on one side of the shaft than on the other or you'll induce vibration. Every little bit makes a difference. The other thing that comes into play here is that he weakened that shaft when he cut into it. It's very likely going to break right there in a crash.
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Old Oct 02, 2010, 05:01 PM
RC heli junkie
Sierra Vista, AZ
Joined Mar 2007
57 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkish View Post
this may help some of you with lack of forward flight or lift. the radio the 9053 comes with centers the trims every time its turned on. if you have it trimmed all the way in one direction, the next time you turn it on the trim will use that setting as neutral!! always re-center the trim tabs and knobs before turning it back on.
Thanks for the tip!
I am still having difficulty flying in even the most still of winds, 1-2mph?
Will adding weight to the front at least keep it moving forward in the wind? at least that way I can have some control instead of screaming at my copter as it drifts back on top of my roof.

*Nevermind* just saw edwong3's comments about the adding of a couple of ounces of weight up front. I will post results if this experiment is successful. It's just that it hovers soo rock solid in my garage right now
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Old Oct 03, 2010, 01:19 PM
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gloworm's Avatar
LEICESTERSHIRE UK
Joined Nov 2008
227 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
It's a novel approach to getting the plastic secured to the shaft, but if he went to all that trouble, he should have ground off the parts of the nail that are just sticking out there waiting to damage something or someone. Heli's spin at a decent speed and balance is critical. You don't want more weight on one side of the shaft than on the other or you'll induce vibration. Every little bit makes a difference. The other thing that comes into play here is that he weakened that shaft when he cut into it. It's very likely going to break right there in a crash.
HI all' kodaks right why did he not just put a flat on shaft and use a small screw' if that thing ever lets go' you could end up looking like a pincushion' just my humble opinion. regards glo
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Old Oct 03, 2010, 08:00 PM
Smokes
Australia, VIC, Kilsyth
Joined Jul 2007
220 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokes View Post
Just had a thought about the flybar bladestrike problem. Rather than extend the shaft to put the bar further from the lower rotor, why not just shorten the flybar to reduce the chance of it hitting? To compensate for the shorter length you could add a small extra weight to the ends. I have a spare so I might just give it a go.
And give it a go I did. Removed the flybar and extracted the two arms from the hub by twisting each one in a vice and pulling the hub away from it. Cut each arm an inch from the end away from the weights, roughened it up a bit with a file then glued it back into the hub with epoxy.

I tried it first without adding extra weights and it still flies fine, but now there's an extra inch of gap between the flybar and the lower blades. No more blade strikes for me. Well, not yet anyway
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