Originally Posted by joneswag

Need some help again please. Have started to have a go at building the tail wheel assembly, but cant work out how area 1 - 1A are supposed to work , Also the wire path is difficult to follow in this area. Finally area 2 is the wire recessed into the balsa?3 and 4 are the parts I have made so far,
Re painting, I have decided that I will use " rattle cans " as you call them for the undercoat and leave the decission on the final coats till later. We in Australia just call them "spray paint cans" prefer your term for them

JONESWAG we call them spray can also and I think it's the best way to go if you have a small comp. you can get a cheep touch up spray gun from Harbor Fright CO. mail order go on line and this will paint much larger areas faster.

With the tail wheel I didn't build mine I bought a Robart retract tail wheel and just made the brass parts. motrio and I thought you bought ones from HK for less than half of what I paid.

Go back to report 71 on my build to see my tail wheel and I changed it later on when I bought the one from Robart it was much better than my first choice.
and I still have bugs there to work out witch is not that far off I have a lot of half way things to pull together yet!

Brian Taylor's drawings are hard to read and I have read a lot of prints in my day
you have to use the wording and the drawing w/ his and he's very vage about alot of things.
If you can go over to Peter F's build on RCSB he built the whole thing.
here let me help you.
http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14905&PN=1&TPN=5
I hope this was some help?

Bruce

Toast great catch with the fuel tank I sometimes get caught up with everything else and for get the basics, easy fix though just turn it around and run a longer fuel line.
KEEP ME ON MY TOES GUYS I NEED THAT the old noodle isn't what it use to be!!

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, I have been trying to join RCSB for months but never had any success. Have just sent another email to see if I have better luck this time

Wayne

Yes I did buy a tailwheel assembly from Hobbyking and may still use it. I did some measuring with it the other day and realised there were a lot of modifications to be made to fit it.. So I thought I would have a go at buillding Brian Taylors set first.

Bruce, Thanks for linking back to my build on the tailwheel.

Wayne, the only thing I did not do was build the balsa shaped bit, your number 4, but if you look at mine then the item 4 should have the wire recessed inside of it. The bend where it goes vertical should be somewhere around the cross piece, I still need to make my balsa dummy legs to go over the wire.

Here is my RCSB post on the subject

The next stage was the tail wheel. This is something I had been dreading as making this sort of thing is not my strong point. I had looked around for a commercial unit and asked on here but there is nothing really available. The closest is the small Robart unit but that would have meant cutting and carving the rear of the fuselage. In the end I decided to go ahead and make it myself.

Several stages took 2 attempts to get things right, bending the wire for the wheel, making the steering arm, making one of the aluminium actuation arms. Getting the steering wires looped through the steering arm and then back into the brass ferrules for crimping was a real pain in the bottom and took ages with my very fine needle nosed pliers to get right.

Now I know what undertaking keyhole surgery is like.

I have to say that there was a lot of cussing and cursing going on in the workshop this weekend. However, despite all the problems it has gone together well.

Video of it working can be found by clicking on the youtube links below

Brian Taylor Mosquito tailwheet test (0 min 11 sec)

Brian Taylor Mosquito tailwheel test (0 min 9 sec)

PeterF many thanks for taking the time to put up the information. It has cleared up all the questions I had going around in my head.

Here is the tail wheel I did for my 124" Mosquito. An 82" version would be quite a bit smaller, but the design should scale okay. Drawings of the parts for the retract mechanism are attached too. The fork assembly is made entirely from laminated plywood and pieces of basswood or wood dowel. Metal parts are limited to the side plates for the retract mechanism, the axle, and the tiller post and fork attachment plate, which is the square plate with the four screws going through it (see the photo shot from the rear). The tiller post is piano wire; the plate is sheet brass, brazed to the piano wire. There is no metal between the fork attachment plate and the axle. The entire assembly is quite light weight, and is holding up very well after a year of flying (no problems whatsoever).

TR Wolf... Very nice job it blows mine away much more scale looking than mine is
and yours works! I still have bugs w/ mine and need to get back to it

Buce

Bruce:

I'm sure you'll get the tail wheel worked out. I had the benefit of doing the design for mine in CAD, so I knew the geometry was right before I built any parts.

Regards,
Tom

Originally Posted by splinterz25

Toast great catch with the fuel tank I sometimes get caught up with everything else and for get the basics, easy fix though just turn it around and run a longer fuel line.
KEEP ME ON MY TOES GUYS I NEED THAT the old noodle isn't what it use to be!!

Bruce

I never put the filler in the line to the carb, bad juju IMO. One more potential for an air leak and an engine out on a twin is a very bad thing.

Make the tank a three line unit - carb - filler- muffler pressure. Block off one side of the filler and you're good to go. You can fill it no problem this way, the air in the tank escapes out the muffler and it'll give you a visual indication when the tanks are full as it piddles on your shoes...

Originally Posted by Hemikiller

I never put the filler in the line to the carb, bad juju IMO. One more potential for an air leak and an engine out on a twin is a very bad thing.

Make the tank a three line unit - carb - filler- muffler pressure. Block off one side of the filler and you're good to go. You can fill it no problem this way, the air in the tank escapes out the muffler and it'll give you a visual indication when the tanks are full as it piddles on your shoes...

Hemikiller...This sounds like a good way to go how do you block off the side that would go to the carb so you don't get a leak there?
my first thought was plug a piece of hose and plug it? but that won't hold up over time and could leak inside the plane.

Bruce

Yep, good point about the plumbing! I was about to post the same thing. Great minds etc..... B-)

Put a short piece of tube on and fold it in half and secure with a cable tie. Will hold forever.

You definitely started a trend here Bruce.All these guys all over the world building Mossies!

I think it's really cool also motrio and great timing w/ the work going on in New Zealand, I've always liked this plane and it has a great history but never got as much air time as most of the other fighters and it was the fastest one!

Well the P-38 didn't get as much as the P-51, Spit, corsair, Jug and Hellcat but I like that one really good also. My all time fav. is the corsair w/ the inverted gull wing and

I grew up watching the BA-BA BLACK SHEEP, one of those it on my list of birds to build and it may be next.

I'm thinking a single engine for the next one because the other one is the PBY and that's really involved.

Well to day I started on the exhaust pipes I'm making them of course I can't see paying $30 for a 90 degree elbow so check how I did it, but I have to go back and cut it down about a 1/2 inch off the cowl hits and stops it from going all the way on, this is the price you pay when you make all of your own parts and don't have a CAD program, but It's not that bad and fixable.

Toast & Hemikiller I took the feed to the carb out and ran a set screw w/ a drop of
CA glue on it this seams to be more better than bending over the hose w/ zip tie. so that's it for the day check the progress or the lack of anyway

Bruce