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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Which blades to buy for a Trex 600

I had my first crash this weekend which cost me a blade and some cheap stuff. Not too bad as heli crashes go, but now I have to get it flying again. I'm just hovering around at this point and will progress through upright flight maneuvers before starting to work on 3D and such. Do you guys have a recommendation for what blades to buy? The heli had Torsion blades on it when I bought it used and I liked them, but I can't seem to find a replacement set that are the same. Cost is certainly a consideration if any of you have used something on the lower end of the cost spectrum that performed well enough for basic upright and scalelike flight.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester_s1 View Post
Cost is certainly a consideration if any of you have used something on the lower end of the cost spectrum that performed well enough for basic upright and scalelike flight.
Basically anything, including woodies, will do that provided they are balanced properly....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Thanks Brutus, you seem to always be ready when I ask a question! I've been looking at some reviews though I see that some blades don't track well under load and saw one where the hole stretched out and could have failed. I definitely don't want that, but I also don't need the super stiff and extra thin high performance blades just yet. A recommendation of a brand or particular blade would be great. My heli is the nitro version with a flybar.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Hehe, when I am home, I pretty much have nothing to do but tinkering with helicopters and looking at a puterscreen...

Can't help on brand names etc, as I exclusively use Vario or Spinblades and don't know of anything else....

Brgds, Bert
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Www.lowerheli.com has Align 600mm carbon blades for 65.00

Www.heliproz.com has a set of 600mm carbon blades for 44.00

http://www.heliproz.com/Mavrikk-Pro-.../products/343/


Then Century has their wood blades for 22.00 a set.

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...324&pageid=613

I have ran these wood blades in the past and for the type of flying you are doing they work great. JUST BE SURE TO GLUE THE ROOTS ON. Check the balance of the blades would be a good ideal. Shoot I alway check the balance on my carbon blades.

Rudy
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:13 PM
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These are may favorite all around "best buy" composite blades for sport flying to even some pretty hard 3D.

http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=984
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 02:48 PM
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Yeah Rudy, I pretty much don't fly anything without balancing it, so that won't be an issue for me. The woodies give me the creeps a little bit, more than anything else due to the fact that if I have a blade strike there's no telling where the tip will wind up. Those Mavrikk's look like a good buy, as do the FunKey ones rotoraddict showed me.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 03:17 PM
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Don't worry for woodies: they were the only thing availlable for at least 20 years, and lots of those you even had to build completely yourself. Even F3C was done with woodies, back in the days.
Tailstrikes were just as likely in those days as now.
I think I have flown woodies for 7 years (damn, I'm getting old...) before composite became more or less commonly availlable, and never experienced any problems with them.

As long as you are hovering and just puttering around in upright position, nothing is going to happen, and they are less than half the price of the next cheapest composite or carbon blades.

Brgds, Bert
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 04:26 PM
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Well maybe that's the way to go then. I suppose some slow set epoxy is the way to glue on those blade roots so they stay? I was running 2000 rpm headspeed for hovering and around 2300 for sport and idle up mode. I don't suppose that will be a factor will it?
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:06 PM
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White woodglue is what I used, that is as strong as any good epoxy, you only need to fuelproof it preferrably, but as long as you are not dipping your blades in fuel, or fly inverted, that is not really crucial.
If you want to use epoxy, use a kind that can be heat-cured, like UHU plus endfest 300.
If you heat that (to for example 60~70 degrees C) it will cure in a very acceptable time, become much stronger than cold-curing (up to 2 times the tensile strength), and additionally, due to lowered viscosity it will better penetrate the wood.

The trick I use with UHU plus on wood, is to heat for 5 minutes with a heatgun at 100 degrees C, then leave it to cool again, than put it in a moderately warm place (like on top of your central heating radiators)

This heat-cold-heat cycle makes the air trapped in the wood expand and contract, sucking in the now less viscous glue deeper into the wood. The second heating only serves to shorten the curing time.

But just a single cold curing should be sufficient too.

Brgds, Bert
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