When these were released, it struck me as odd that a heli of this size and rotor span should come with 180 motors. Seems a tad undersized and overworked.
In line with DT's post mentioning heat sinks and arctic silver, that's the first thing I do to brushed motors, except the Syma 107 sized jobbies of course.
As we all know, heat is the number one killer for them.

Done! I added a couple of aluminum Maxx Products 20mm heat sinks to the X350 little 180 brushed motors, using Arctic Silver V thermal compound, by replacing the stock cheap stamped tin "heat sink" and the plastic motor cage/fasteners with the two real heat sinks only added 5 grams over the original weight. Hopefully, that will extend the life of the stock brushed motors, also, I think I will limit the flight durations to around7-8 minutes on this bird to let the little motors have a chance to cool off in between flights.

I bought a multimeter. I plugged the round connector from the AC adapter into the Lipo charger then plugged the adapter into the wall socket. The red power LED illuminated so far so good. Then I plugged the balance connector from the battery into the 11.1v charge socket. The three green lights illuminated and went off. After that, the red illuminates twice then the first green light goes on, second goes on third goes on. Everything turns off, and then the same sequence. I was checking the voltage which at start was 11.6V and after seven hours charging and checking reached 12.61V and it was kept going with the green lights not coming solid ON. I stopped the charge at that point. I have to mention that during charging the AC adapter, the charger and the battery were cool-not warm or hot. Any ideas? Do you think is something wrong with the charger/battery?

To make the things worse I took her for an outdoor test flight-no wind at all and no use of the tail rotor- Nice lift off, hovering but somehow the heli was started going like crazy fast to a tree, I panicked and I cut the throttle, of course she came down to the street like a rock from around 30 feet high. The canopy was in three pieces and no spares online. I checked the systems and everything seems to be OK. I just repaired the canopy with shipping tape but does not look good.

Over on the other x350 review blog, it was stated that Mike Greenshields mentioned at the AMA convention that there are some issues with the transmitter, and that there will be an upgrade coming soon. Sounds like your transmitter could be having issues like mine. My radio does other weird things like not activating the tail motor at times. I tried rebinding, and recalibrating the sticks IAW the manual, and got more power again for a short time, but ended up not making enough power again. I'm going to approach Hobby People to see if they will help me out somehow when I get the time.

Originally Posted by Doubletap

Done! I added a couple of aluminum Maxx Products 20mm heat sinks to the X350 little 180 brushed motors, using Arctic Silver V thermal compound, by replacing the stock cheap stamped tin "heat sink" and the plastic motor cage/fasteners with the two real heat sinks only added 5 grams over the original weight. Hopefully, that will extend the life of the stock brushed motors, also, I think I will limit the flight durations to around7-8 minutes on this bird to let the little motors have a chance to cool off in between flights.

I don't have one of these, but I have had a HBFP and now have a Walkera 400D. The HBFP is a 300+ size heli and it comes with a 380 brushed motor. The 400D is a 400 size coax and it has a pair of ~ 380 size brushed motors. I don't suppose this heli has enough room to stuff bigger motors into it? When they go brushless, do they use Hobby King or some other motor that's readily available or are they custom made motors? In- runner brushless motors are taller but smaller in diameter. I'd think you would want something on the order of a 3900kva motor to handle the rotor diameter. That's what a company or two uses on the 400D kits offered.

Is there any special reason for not having an ON-OFF switch? or extending the battery's wires so mounting/unmounting the battery is not necessary? It is at least for me, too inconvenient before flying to try mounting the canopy and taking it off for charging. Has anybody done such a mod?

Originally Posted by Thetis

Is there any special reason for not having an ON-OFF switch? or extending the battery's wires so mounting/unmounting the battery is not necessary? It is at least for me, too inconvenient before flying to try mounting the canopy and taking it off for charging. Has anybody done such a mod?

Virtually all hobby grade models don't have an on/off switch which requires pugging/unplugging the battery to power up/down, and as far as the battery leads, I agree they are too short, but they are easily extended with some basic soldering skills and tools, that is one mod I will be doing on my X350, because it is such a hassle to remove and re-install the canopy, I just fly with no canopy, but that makes it very difficult to see the model, especially with my aging eyes.

Originally Posted by Doubletap

Virtually all hobby grade models don't have an on/off switch which requires pugging/unplugging the battery to power up/down, and as far as the battery leads, I agree they are too short, but they are easily extended with some basic soldering skills and tools, that is one mod I will be doing on my X350, because it is such a hassle to remove and re-install the canopy, I just fly with no canopy, but that makes it very difficult to see the model, especially with my aging eyes.

I will appreciate to let us know how you did it. Thanks

Charging lipos in place is a very bad idea. They can explode.

Originally Posted by Thetis

I will appreciate to let us know how you did it. Thanks

BTW, it's not a good idea to charge these large lipos in the model, I only want to extend the leads so it can be plugged in/unplugged without having to dismount the canopy, because the leads are just too short to be able to extend them outside the canopy so you don't have to remove the canopy to power up/down.

Originally Posted by Doubletap

BTW, it's not a good idea to charge these large lipos in the model, I only want to extend the leads so it can be plugged in/unplugged without having to dismount the canopy, because the leads are just too short to be able to extend them outside the canopy so you don't have to remove the canopy to power up/down.

I just want to power up/down without removing the canopy, not charging the Lipo in the heli.

Nice vid millhouse

How often does this get the dreaded death dive and or blade slap?

Originally Posted by TimJohnson

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7pQx9WQnGY&feature

LOL okay here it is.

By taking out the 4 batteries from the Tx and putting them back will reset it and bring back to factory settings?

Originally Posted by Razors edge 29

Nice vid millhouse

How often does this get the dreaded death dive and or blade slap?

Thanks.

I'm not too sure on the "dreaded death dive", but blade slap, I have only experienced when I get stupid with sticks jamming them all over the place. The heli lets you know when it is unhappy. But the blades do not interfere with each other enough to make a difference, but enough to make noise letting you know your yanking your sticks too hard. This heli likes smooth inputs.

thanks for info

Originally Posted by TimJohnson

Thanks.

I'm not too sure on the "dreaded death dive", but blade slap, I have only experienced when I get stupid with sticks jamming them all over the place. The heli lets you know when it is unhappy. But the blades do not interfere with each other enough to make a difference, but enough to make noise letting you know your yanking your sticks too hard. This heli likes smooth inputs.