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Old Dec 14, 2011, 10:35 PM
Still a mile high when I land
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United States, CO, Arvada
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Build Log
NAN Orion STEP-BY-STEP Build

This thread is for folks like myself that have advanced past the foam/ balsa airplanes and is ready for some serious fun. I'm posting this because I had wished someone had done a step-by-step on the NAN Orion airplane model in detail. That someone is me now. This build is rather advanced for an ARF builder, quite technical as I have found, and full of tricks of the trade as I was shown. I'm simply following directions from others in many cases. My hope is that sharing this information will help further our hobby. Glider and most power is from soaringusa.com, tools and small components from various sources. Please let me know if I've left anything out and I'll add whatever it is. Many thanks to the great people at soaringusa.com and Ed Stewart- Master builder and champion glider pilot.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 10:55 PM
Still a mile high when I land
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United States, CO, Arvada
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Control Linkages

Starting with the right aileron. You need to get metal M2 clevises. There are many manufacturers of M2 clevis, but a very particular one is preferred. The preferred ones to use can be found HERE. The brass horns should have the shortest shank you can use. First thing to do is get a pair of 12" hemo's and lightly clamp (not lock!) around the shaft and just very lightly debur it. Then hook it into a brass horn. You will find it near impossible to hook these clevis to a horn without doing this to all of them. Cut the threads off of the horns to 4.5 mm. measured from the horn base. If you don't, you'll screw them through the other side of the aileron. Screw them in both wings so you don't loose them. They just need to be snug. Grind out part of the down facing part (pin rivet facing toward you) of the clevis to clear the servo shaft at extreme angles. The pin of the clevis will go through the servo arm away from the servo.
I used M2X110 Hirobo rod (black steel) that doesn't bend and cut them in half then to 38mm each with threads on one end. Thread the end into the clevis you ground in for the servo and sand the smooth end to make it slide into the horn clevis easily. You're going to end up with a control rod measuring about 68 mm between clevis shafts if you're wondering, just push the other clevis on the smooth end, and measure where it will end up. Look good? On to the next step.
Note: I know the photo shows the threaded end in the horn clevis. I was experimenting with solder. Not a good idea.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 11:38 PM
Still a mile high when I land
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United States, CO, Arvada
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Aileron Servo

Servos are Hyperion HP-DS09-AMD. Find the large two ended servo arm. (2mm thick) Center the servo and find an end that's close to 90 deg. Drill a 3/64 hole in the first hole. Then ream it out just a little with the bit to open it up just a little by hand. Put the clevis pin into the first hole. You will have to force it a bit with a pair of needle nose. It will be very tight. Remove it, and ream a bit more with the bit. Don't wobble the bit. Keep the hole strait. Do this several times if you have to until you can easily move the clevis with your finger, but it sticks a bit. Be sure the edges of the clevis are not binding against the servo case. If it is, grind it back some more and check again. Now cut the servo arms. One off, and the other to length. I did this last to make it easier to work with. Mount the servo arm one click back off 90 toward the trailing edge. Loctite the screw (this is metal to metal). Push the two white horizontal wing mounts on the servo. Then, wrap the whole works nice and tight with a thin plastic shopping bag including the white mounts. Cut the two small plastic tabs off the ends of the servo wing mounts and secure them through the plastic bag with the provided screws. Connect the servo clevis with the 38mm rod threaded on. Now the servo is ready for some epoxy, but not yet.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 11:55 PM
Still a mile high when I land
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Wing prep fun

I have a terry cloth towel over the work space to put the wing on. I have a shop rule that any parts or tools that are not currently being used are removed from the work area. This prevents screws or tools from getting lost and working their way between the wing and towel and marking the surface of the wing. The finish is easily marred, and this is a good way to prevent it. Ya, this is where I got a little worried, It's OK, it's just a $600 airplane wing. It turns out great if you take your time. Start with a dot on the wing with ultra-fine sharpie (ya, you can clean it all off with Acetone) where the center of the brass horn nearly touches when you lift the aileron. Lower the aileron and take a triangle or T-square off the trailing edge hinge line and go up about 30mm with a mark. Measure 9mm from the trailing edge up the line, mark, then another mark 28mm up from the hinge line. I began my cut with a diamond tip (very small) and kept it as straight as I could going out on both sides of the line. Then using a small, fine stone at about 10k rpm, I widened it until I could fit a clevis in the opening. Just eyeballing it and trimming what I felt right, turned out good. Wipe the sweat off your face, make a big, deep, sigh. That wasn't so bad, now was it?
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 12:33 AM
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Epoxy

First, tape the aileron edges and flap edges and hinges to center it all and to keep it there. I used blue masking tape. Now, sand the wing opening with medium grit paper to scratch it real good. I even scratched it with the tip of an exacto knife. Clean the area with acetone. Blowing don't cut it. Place a cool (not frozen) liquid cool pack under the area on the work bench where the servo will be epoxied to the wing. This is to keep the wing cool so the heat the curing epoxy generates won't mark the wing. Dry fit your servo in the bay. My final fit forced the servo as far toward the leading edge as possible. I wound up cutting a small half-moon into the bay cover frame to get as far as possible since this section of the wing is very thin and I don't want bumps in the cover. Mark your dry run with silver sharpie. This is where you will smear the epoxy, not on the servo frames. Mix up some 30min epoxy. My mentor insists on Great Planes. 2 drams total. Then, mix in some West Systems 406 Colloidal Silica (adhesive filler). This thickens the mix and strengthens it. Get it to something like cool whip with peaks that fold over by themselves. Smear the paste on the marks inside the lines you drew with the silver sharpie. Line the clevis rod with the cut you made in the wing. Lightly drop the servo in place making sure the plastic bag goes behind the entire servo arm and control rod. Press it in place real good to seat it. Center the rod in the opening and press the servo into the wing as far toward the leading edge as you can go and still get that screw out. Try this without glue once and you will have a much better idea as to how it goes. Now, put a weight on top of the servo. I used another 09-AMD on top of it and my favorite 5000mah 6s battery for my chopper. Now, have a beer, or 12. Check your work before you CA the threaded rod to the servo clevis. Slide the aileron clevis on to the other end of the control arm and hook it to the brass horn. Check center with your servo centered and thin CA it in place on the rod. It should be centered in the slot and the clevis should be strait on the rod. The finished product should be slop free. If you tap on the aileron with your finger and you hear a "tick", you did something wrong. Mine is slop free and has amazing centering. When I hooked up the servo to the receiver and tried it on my radio, I realized I've entered a whole new level of modeling. Photo was of my dry run to show the scratched up carbon in the wing. Note the plastic bag is behind the arm and entire servo.
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Last edited by MonsterBFC; Apr 13, 2012 at 01:09 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:40 AM
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Nice build, what servo frame are you using?. Thanks
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:43 PM
Still a mile high when I land
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miche View Post
Nice build, what servo frame are you using?. Thanks
Thank you,
These are "Type Robbe 9" servo frames. The small middle parts of the frames are removed since the servo is just a bit oversized for them.
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 06:05 AM
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Thank you.
Regards

Quote:
Originally Posted by MonsterBFC View Post
Thank you,
These are "Type Robbe 9" servo frames.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 01:22 AM
Still a mile high when I land
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Joined Mar 2011
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Flaps

MKS servos used here and I would like to say their quality is some of the best I have ever seen. The same steps are used here as the ailerons except drilling more holes in the wood frame to make epoxy "rivets", and using the 2nd hole out on the servo arm. Clean the servo arm into the arm mount on the bottom to be sure of clearance. Servo frame cuts are 2mm through holes and then counter-sink cuts with a 3.5 mm bit. I have the luxury of a drill press and it made short order of it. After the epoxy set, I removed the screws and lifted the servo just enough to remove the plastic bag and to show the rivets. I couldn't get a nice straight control rod shot through the hole in the wing without going right up against the servo bay cover frame. The left wing was much the same. The flap horn clevis hole in the wing is 26mm up from the trailing edge hinge line. Control rod was again 38mm. Don't forget to cool the wing from under with a liquid ice pack to prevent heat from the curing epoxy deforming the wing. This time you will smear the epoxy ON the servo frame.
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Last edited by MonsterBFC; Dec 17, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 12:39 PM
Still a mile high when I land
MonsterBFC's Avatar
United States, CO, Arvada
Joined Mar 2011
104 Posts
Servo tray covers

Since I get blank stares at my LHS when I ask for 4 pin Deans for the wiring harness, I'm waiting for parts from out of town, so on to the servo tray covers. Having built other ARF gliders, I learned my lesson about covers. Pre-marked cut-out sheets never fit right, and I was shown this method. Use masking tape and lay it down along the outer edges of the servo cover frames. Then put the cover over the opening and with the servo in the neutral position, move the cover around until you figure where the bump in the cover is centered over the protruding servo arm. Hold the cover in place and put a dot with ultra-fine sharpie on each edge where it meets the inside edge of the tape. With a straight edge, mark lines as shown. With a sharp pair of scissors, cut along the outer edge of the sharpie mark you made. Check the fit and sand the edges to fit, then round the corners. I used 400 grit paper on a flat surface. You can tape the cover down, or use a very fine bead of shoe goo around the outer edge to secure.
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Last edited by MonsterBFC; Dec 17, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 02:35 AM
Still a mile high when I land
MonsterBFC's Avatar
United States, CO, Arvada
Joined Mar 2011
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Tail servo tray

Starting with a nice sized sheet of 3/16" plywood. Mark as shown on the photo. I left it on the sheet until I was ready to cut the whole mount out to make it easier to handle. This takes some patience and attention to detail, at least for me. Try to keep the servo shafts lined up with the center line since the arms will go at roughly 90 degrees off the center line. The servos touch eachother at the inside edges on one end, and they're very tight. You need to make an angled cut between the servo screw holes so you can squeeze the servo wire through on the 95's.
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Last edited by MonsterBFC; Dec 30, 2011 at 11:53 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 07:48 AM
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Nice build thread, great pictures! Makes me want to get an Orion. Another vote for Shoe Goo to hold down servo covers.
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Last edited by 320pilot; Dec 19, 2011 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 08:02 AM
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Nice write up...looking forward to completion!
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 01:35 AM
Still a mile high when I land
MonsterBFC's Avatar
United States, CO, Arvada
Joined Mar 2011
104 Posts
Thank you very much for your compliments. Itís important for me to know my work on this is appreciated. Iíll do my best to answer any questions I can.
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Old Dec 22, 2011, 11:47 AM
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France
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Hi MonsterBFC,

Keep up this very good job on the Orion and I wish you the best for the rest of the building !!

Tchao.
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