Has anyone just cut the power plug off that would normally just go to the TX and place a standard lipo 2s on it for a Spektrum TX unit??

Originally Posted by scribble79

Has anyone just cut the power plug off that would normally just go to the TX and place a standard lipo 2s on it for a Spektrum TX unit??

That won't work, one of the wires need to be connected as it is not currently. What I did was cut of the power jack and solder on a JST connector. Then connected the loose wire like village idiots diagram. I will snap a picture.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Stew.Meyers

I have the Any Link and a DR-1 Flys great. I am using a DX6i. (5v)
I have an old DX6 that I would like to dedicate to the Any Link.
Are you sure the 9.6v of the DX6 won't fry the Any Link?

In talking with the guys from Hobbico at E-fest they say running it on a 3 cell lipo is fine. Evidently it has a wide voltage operating range.

Here is mine many thanks to village idiot for his help. It is very easy if you can solder you can build this harness! These pictures should show exactly how to do it.

This picture is of the harness end, the group of wires on the right goes to the battery and the group of wires on the left are from the trainer jack.


This picture is of the overall harness, I am using a 2S lipo connected via the JST connector.


Works great flew my F86 this afternoon with it.

Good use for tired 2 cells Lipo who can no longer deliver high motor current due to internal resistance!

And getting to use your DX8 now instead of using the stock cable that costs $15. I really wanted my DX8 to maiden my Sabre.

village_idiot and IndyMatt,

Thanks guys! Even '2 wire Don' was able to do this without letting the smoke out! To test my handiwork, I jury rigged 4 'C' cells and the AnyLink powered right up. No Smoke!

I think I'm going to use 4 "AA"s in a RS battery box so I don't have to bother with MORE rechargable batteries.

Thanks again!

Don

Here's a picture of my completed project.

The included Spektrum cord was modified thanks to village_idiot and IndyMatt's research. Power is supplied by 4 "AA" batteries in a Radio Shack battery holder (270-409)
which is attached to the DX8's battery door with Velcro. A nice feature of the battery holder is the on/off switch. The AnyLink itself is attached with '3M Command Adhesive'
strips in case I decide to reposition it later.

I was pleased to hear 'beep, beep' when I turned on the power switch, and didn't see smoke! Bound it to my Dr.1 and can't wait to try it on Tuesday.

Thanks again guys!

Don

Originally Posted by cr8tive_leo

I did already... Works, but you need to do mods , or buy the tacm0005 alternate power supply life battery thingy.




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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.002961,-79.457380

Would you post the required mods to do this? I can't find a thread describing it. Hope it is something that I can do. I don't care about cost really. Two things that are important to me are to run on the existing radio's power and to use only the original power switch, Is this possible?

I'll be posting the mod on 9xforums first, then here.

Essentially all the mod is what is posted above.

The new mod i did on another radio was take a servo lead, solder the three wires to ppm, vcc and ground.(according to the futaba pinout)

And that was it. Plug the connector in and it should work.

Haven't tested the new mod, had an incident at work, haven't been able to get out of bes the past few days, severly bruised lower back muscles... Sucks.



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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=44.056208,-79.476195

Originally Posted by Digital Don

The included Spektrum cord was modified thanks to village_idiot and IndyMatt's research. Power is supplied by 4 "AA" batteries in a Radio Shack battery holder (270-409)
which is attached to the DX8's battery door with Velcro. A nice feature of the battery holder is the on/off switch. The AnyLink itself is attached with '3M Command Adhesive'
strips in case I decide to reposition it later.
Don

Coming from someone that was scared of letting the smoke out, that sure looks like a nice clean installation. The battery box with switch was a very good idea and I would guess that if you used 2000mah or higher rated AA rechargeable batteries that you should get hours of flight time per charge. Too bad they don't make a battery box with a little power gauge, this is the only thing that bothers me about the external battery pack is you have no idea how much is left in the pack.

Something like maybe this:
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...n=CSRLS4FGAUGE
Kind of wasteful since you only need a single row and it really needs to go up to about 6 volts.
Or maybe a custom thing like here (no longer in production):
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f200/h...onitor-111646/
This one is a little over priced but looks simple enough http://www.beanbag.com/wjsails/prodd...rod=BatVolt4.8
I'm sure some searching in the DIY electronics section will produce several alternatives that probably cost all of a couple dollars to build. It looks like the cheapest and easiest would be a meter designed around the LM3914, LM3915, or LM3916 devices and just make a 10 segment LED indicator for pack voltage.

I wonder what would happen for warranty service if you installed a small power connector on the back of the radio that connects directly to the radio power, and a little switch to turn the Anylink on and off??? I have a feeling that they might want to replace the entire back case to bring it back to stock but I'm not sure.

Decided I couldn't live with the crumby drawing so I updated with a better version.

Originally Posted by village_idiot

Decided I couldn't live with the crumby drawing so I updated with a better version.

Was that keeping you awake at night?

Originally Posted by coriolan

Was that keeping you awake at night?

Yes a little. The drawing was done in haste to get the info out, now I just decided it needed to be corrected. Considering how this device is designed to work, you might have thought the info would have been in the user manual, but I've checked the version Tower links and the version the FCC has on file and neither show the connection diagram. Still not happy by what the jpg compression did to the colors, my CAD doesn't have a way to save as png and TIFF is overkill.

And I checked the internal pictures of the the device to verify that this is indeed the correct wiring, backed up by posts from people who have it so it should be the final version.

Maybe they should send me a free Anylink and brick for the help in making their customers happy since they can't buy the DX8 type cable yet and needed to make their own.