Hi, just got 10XP. After I try to connect it by CCS and forgot what I did, maybe reset to default once, now it always show "charging supply less than 24.4V" when start charging. What it means? And, when the fan will start to work? I use 24V power and charge 2x3S in Dual mode, 15C table, Auto 1.0C mode. Thanks.

Originally Posted by discohse

Hi, just got 10XP. After I try to connect it by CCS and forgot what I did, maybe reset to default once, now it always show "charging supply less than 24.4V" when start charging. What it means? And, when the fan will start to work? I use 24V power and charge 2x3S in Dual mode, 15C table, Auto 1.0C mode. Thanks.

See post #185 this thread.

Bob

Thanks, I find post#219 that explained my question.

Hi everyone,

I just have a couple of quick questions about the 10XP. I'm interested in finding a charger that would suit most of my needs and the 10XP ticks all the boxes. It seems like charging Lipos is pretty straight forward on this charger; however, I'm wondering about charging my Fromeco Li-ion packs I use in my gassers. Is there a way to charge the packs without having to worry about a balance charge? Could someone please talk me through the process of charging these packs?

On my old single port charger I just charge them on a Lipo setting at 2s 1.3A for my 2600mAh packs.

If you're not too familiar with these packs that are a 2S 7.4V either 2600 or 5400mAh.

Just reading through the user manual and I noticed that the charger is capable or charging 1 2s Li-ion pack unbalanced. Now, if Fromeco packs had balance wires I could do 5 2s packs which is a bummer because I was hoping to charger at least two packs at a time without having to solder on balance connectors.

Am I on the right track or have I completely stuffed up???

Cheers

Man, you got me confused but then that's nothing new for me.... lol

Kurt (Fromeco) used to build some packs without balancing circuitry as he didn't sell a balancing charger. He's since done quite a bit of testing on the A123 (LiFe chemistry) cells and came to the same conclusion every one else has; they need to be balanced charged.

The same is true of the Li-Ion/LiPo chemistry; they need to be balance charged and it's been quite a long time since I've seen any of those batteries without balance leads.

My first thought would be that you should contact Fromeco and see what they've got to say, it might be a suggestion that you chuck those batteries.

As for your other question about the 10XP doing a "non-balance" charge; I think.... it can do that but would not do it myself so I've not really looked at all the capabilities.

Originally Posted by Goodie_2_Shoes

Just reading through the user manual and I noticed that the charger is capable or charging 1 2s Li-ion pack unbalanced. Now, if Fromeco packs had balance wires I could do 5 2s packs which is a bummer because I was hoping to charger at least two packs at a time without having to solder on balance connectors.

Am I on the right track or have I completely stuffed up???

Cheers

Hi:

Either you are confused or I am. You can charge batteries in parallel regardless of whether you do a balanced charge or not. You just need to make up appropriate parallel harness. It's always best to balance charge, however. So I'm just saying what's possible, not necessarily what I'd recommend.

Tim Marks

Well thanks guys, I had another look on the Fromeco site and found this that pretty much sums up everything http://www.fromeco.org/products/06frcjst-640/

Seems as if you can order the balance tap or when purchasing new batteries through Fromeco add a special request to have them add it.

I think I will still get the 10XP, it will be great for all my pattern stuff, parkflyers and foamies. As for my gassers I'm going to get the new Fromeco simple charger. Looking forward to playing with my new chargers, thanks again.

Goodie,

Since you are getting the CellPro 10XP be sure to specify the 5 node FMA wiring on your batteries.

Glen

P.S. You will also need two of the CellPro (JST PA) 10S 5S-to-4S adapters.
http://www.usastore.revolectrix.com/...-to-4s-Adapter

This adapter will interface between the 5 node balance connector on your batteries to the 6 node connector on the 10XP.

Hello everyone,always gets mild headache infront of the screen so I ask directly instead of searching.

the Cellpro 10XP Charger seems to be what I am looking for...so

for my logo 600 I got this turnigy 10s lipo- 2 JST-XH
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

So,I guess this is the right bord and I need two of them?
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/revo...o-p-13563.html

or is there something else I need

Originally Posted by ibbe76

Hello everyone,always gets mild headache infront of the screen so I ask directly instead of searching.

the Cellpro 10XP Charger seems to be what I am looking for...so

for my logo 600 I got this turnigy 10s lipo- 2 JST-XH
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

So,I guess this is the right bord and I need two of them?
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/revo...o-p-13563.html

or is there something else I need

That would work and allow you to charge that as one 10s pack. However I think the Powerlabs would give a little more flexibility due to the higher wattage. You could still charge that 10s pack, but as two 5s packs in parallel.

To other FMA cell pro 10 users;

Can you explain info on internal resistance and the screen on the charger when you're charging. Should all the cells numbers be close ? What does the m and omega symbol mean when it's next to a cell's number?

I have a 5s 4200 pk that I can only use up to about 60-70% throttle on. It's a 4m, 12lb e-glider w/ a 16x10 folder on it and uses a C.C.125 esc. The pack fully charges fine, and there is no puffy on any of the cells. But if I try to go past the 70% throttle, the motor cuts out, and the esc will do a single beep intermittently.

I'm guessing that one or more of the cells are bad. IDK.

The IR numbers should be close. For instance, on a very good quality battery with a C rating of 30 to 40, IR numbers will be something like 1.3, 1.7, 1.6, 1.5, 1.5 and on a lesser quality battery something like 2.5, 3.1, 2.8, 3.2, 2.7. Omega is the resistance in milliohms. If one cell is more than a few tenths of a milliohm above the others, the cell may be bad or is starting to go bad.

Throttle cut-out as you describe sounds just like thermal shutdown from over-amping. A quick fix is to change the upper throttle point on your transmitter so that 70% is your high-throttle stick position (or VR lever position for throttle if you are using the throttle stick for Crow/airbrake in a sailplane configuration).

If your controller is an ICE, enable logging to see the current, pack voltage and controller temperature. It may be hitting the LVC under load. If the LVC is too high then lowering it may help. If the pack is not able to hold voltage under load, then it may be toast, or the pack is too low of C rating for the application. If that is the case, limiting the throttle fly2bob can help as long as you still get the performance you are after.

ESC is a C.C. 125, so no data logging I'm afraid. Bought the batt used. Use to work fine. Did fly it to LVC, a mistake I now know. IDK what fuel % flying to the LVC puts you at, but I know it's not 80% like suggested, maybe more like 50%. Did lower to the LVC slightly to be able to use it as is.


It's a Neu 5s 4300 25/50c, and as I said, it charges fine (will take a chg up to full), and there is no puffy of any kind. As for the rest of the system; C.C. 125 esc, Neu 1510.5/1Y w/ a 6.7 gb, and 16x10 folder. From the motocalc; sys draws about 90 amps & puts out about 1500 watts.

So I guess that's it for that battery?

I'll have to go ahead and do a chg. and report the (resistance numbers) info.

Thanks,

Bob