New Speedo 1.2 Kit Tail is Different
Howdy y'all, long time no post here for me. Unfortunately, I pretty much dorked up my original Speedo 1.2 Electric back in the summer on a "landing". I was flying it on the slope and brought it in to land. I hit a bush with the tail and it sent the nose right into a big rock. The motor shaft was bent and even worse, the fuselage broke where the tail boom attached to it. The cylindrical part of the fuselage that mated to the inside of the tail boom completely broke apart from the rest of the body. It didn't seem like it was that hard of an impact but I guess I did it just hard enough to jack everything up. The wing was in great shape and so were the tail surfaces. I salvaged them, the wing, the electronics and I took apart the motor to get all the little magnets in it. They work really well at holding pictures or art work on your fridge.
So, a while back I bought a replacement kit and also a non electric Speedo. I'm just now getting around to putting them together and there are a few refinements to the newer electric Speedo's. The fuselage seems to be a little roomier on the inside where the battery, receiver and ESC reside. Also the batteries that come with the kit are a little longer but not as fat. They are still 900mah, but with the new roomier fuselage, you can easily fit a 1300mah in there. The wing and servo mounts for the tail servos are still the same. My old wing will be a good spare for it should I need it, although the wing is actually really strong.
The next big difference is how the tail surfaces are mounted to the back of the boom. The new kit has a kind of built in box that the tail surfaces slide into and you just glue them. The old kit used a bolt on assembly for the V tail. I know this is not the best description but I will post some pictures tomorrow of it for y'all. I just glued the tail surfaces into the little V box this evening and the old way was a little easier, but I think this new method may be a little stronger. You will have to add some balsa shims to make the tail surfaces fit in the V box snugly but it's not hard to do. I used Goop to glue them in. I know that stuff is heavy but trust me, you will need the tail weight. This plane really starts flying well with a CG at 73 - 75MM back. Just be sure to dial those elevator rates down when you are moving the CG back. I think I was at 1.5 - 2MM of elevator travel (up and down) on low rates at that CG. You can use a grip of rudder travel though. I found that the rudder is actually nice to have and make sure you do some aileron rudder mix.
I can't wait to get this plane in the air as I have really been missing my Speedo Electric. I built the slope Speedo and I'm ready to maiden it, but we have been having terrible winds for sloping at Mt. Zion lately, so that glider remains un-flown. It came in at 13 5/8 OZ AUW and I have the CG at 76 - 77MM back. Your tastes may differ but I personally liked the performance on a slightly aft CG. I will update you on how both the slope and electric versions fly in addition to posting my surface movement rates. Have a great night!
I was able to maiden the slope version of my Speedo and it flew freaking great. I have attached pictures here of the slope Speedo and components I used on it. Its a cool little plane.
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New Speedo Electric Kit Pictures
As advertised, I am posting some pictures of the new Speedo Electric kit I recently picked up. There are some differences to the newer kit as compared to the one I had previously. The fuselage seems to be roomier, but the fuselage hatch from the old kit will fit perfectly on the new fuselage. I am able to get a 1300mah battery in the new kit and I think it would have been impossible in the old kit. The 900mah batteries that come with the new kit are longer and narrower than the old short fat ones.
The firewall seems to have a little more reinforcement now. There is a sheet of fiber glass on the outside of the new kit firewall and I don't recall there being one on the old kit. There is not a fiberglass sheet on the inside of the firewall surface but it is glued in with epoxy on both sides. The nose tapers down the same on this fuselage so your motor wires will still be a little tight. Also, make sure that the metal wire used to hold the battery hatch on does NOT come in contact with the motor housing. That's a very quick way to burn up a motor (like in a matter of seconds). I didn't use the metal wire on my old one and just secured the hatch cover with some tape, which worked well.
The tail is the biggest difference on the newer kits. It has a sort of box built into the tail where you slide the tail surfaces in and glue them. The old kit had a small carbon fiber V that you glued the bottom of the tail surface too and you used a bolt to connect the V-tail to the boom. The new kit doesn't use any bolt because the tail surface box is already secured to the boom. There are pros and cons to each method, but the more I think about it, the more I like the new kit.
New V-tail Box Pros =
1. The tail surfaces are more secure because you can glue them on the top and bottom.
2. You don't have to worry about over tightening the bolt and crushing the boom.
3. You don't have a bolt head or nut as the tail wheel / snagging device when you land.
4. There is some space to fill and you can use more glue to add more tail weight (trust me your going to need it).
5. Add your own pro here.
New V-tail Box Cons =
1. The V-tail box is was not anywhere near the same size as the tail surfaces so I have to craft and glue on some balsa shims to get them to fit snugly (this was not as bad as I thought it would be).
2. You cannot remove the tail easily if you need to replace part of it like you could with the old V-tail.
3. You need to shim the V-tail so that it is as narrow as possible. If you let the tail surfaces sag and you shim on the top, you will get a flatter V-tail. On a fast plane like this, you will need more rudder than elevator (especially if you move your CG back some). The V-tail box kind of limits how much you can narrow the tail, but after shimming the surfaces on the bottom and comparing the new tail to my old tail, they are just about dead on as far as V-tail angle goes.
4. All the slack in the V-tail box will ultimately add tail weight if you are super conscious about any fat on your plane.
5. Add you own con here.
On this plane I am using Hyperion DS09-SMD servos for all control surfaces. They are pricey but very strong and thin. They fit in the wing without creating any bulge on the top skin. Also, I don't have to use the little spacers that fit between the wing bottom and the servo covers. I'm sure that saves about .5 grams of over all weight . I used Hitec HS-5055MG servos in my previous iteration of the Speedo Electric and they worked well for me. This is a cool and fast little plane, so I figure that it deserves good servos. This is not to say that the servos that come with the kit are inadequate but I just don't know because I have never used them. I don't want to lose this plane because of a servo failure so that's mainly why I upgrade mine. Also, it provides me with extra servos that I can give to my friends as gifts.
Currently, I have the wing and tail boom built on this kit. I need to attach the tail boom to the fuselage and install all of the electronics, but it should be pretty soon when I get this new version up in the air. I was having a great time with my old one just before I jacked it all up on a landing and I am very much looking forward to flying one again. On a side note, I was able to maiden my slope version of the Speedo the other day and it flew perfectly after only two clicks of left aileron and adding a little elevator rate. If you do any slope flying, you should try out the slope Speedo.
I will post more info as I get further along with this build and maiden. I hope that you are all having a wonder start to 2015!
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