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Thanks a lot for the paddled flybar advice, guys. I really was confused about the purpose of the screw and in the MSR paddles and how it would hold onto the bar. However, after looking at it again, I think I see that the paddle screw is supposed to pinch down on the flybar.
I also see that my paddles are not shoved on as far as yours, MOK. I see also why you sanded down the end of the flybar to make it fit properly all the way in now. Well, when I get some more flybars, I'll try that out with them. I'd very much like to get a "standard" flybar that I can put on both my V911s so that they fly more or less the same. Going to bed now while the CA cures. Will test fly tomorrow evening. |
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Latest blog entry: Fitting a Bravo SX fuselage to a GW 9958...
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ORDERED: Got the Helios swashplate as well. |
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Latest blog entry: Making a Super Sized Frankenquad
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Have you tried lubing the motor yet? The bushing at the bottom may need a tiny drop of oil. Just drip a little bit where the shaft enter and rotate and move the shaft up and down to ensure the oil gets to the bushing. Best to do it while the motor is upside down. I personally think it's a necessary step for all new motors.
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Latest blog entry: Syma S105 Battery Mod
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Banggood got the paddle flybar. It was $1.20/piece and then price went up to $2.20 the day it was actually in stock.
Simply search for Helios. The only question is, what modification is necessary to use the Helios flybar. It's been reported that it's not a "drop in" fit on the v911 head. |
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Latest blog entry: Syma S105 Battery Mod
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2012
330 Posts
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United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
1,605 Posts
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Check your transmitter batteries. Use a digital voltmeter to check your helicopter batteries. Full charge = 4.20 volts. Charger or USB source could be bad. Replace the main motor. |
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Joined Sep 2007
477 Posts
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The yellow canopy has a more downturned shape and it's hard to get canopy strikes. Push full forward on the right stick. Let it pick up some speed. Just before it hits the wall, pull full back. If you miss the wall, but still hear a "whack" - that's was a flybar/canopy strike. |
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Joined Sep 2007
477 Posts
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2. Might be as simple as the servo arm is on wrong. Try removing the white servo arm. Power up. Does the servo "settle" (stop whining). If so, and you call that centered, can you move it up down from there? If it seems like it, pop the white arm back on and see if it's going up/down. If so, screw it back on. 3. I had one with poor soldering on the servo contacts. There are three pins at the top of the servo that go through the board. If you know how to solder, try retouching those. Don't overheat as there are plastic parts inside. You can replace the servo.... been there, done that, ain't gonna do it again. BNF... |
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Joined Sep 2007
477 Posts
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It'd be interesting to measure the voltage on a working copter. Then maybe we could guess what it's used for. Off hand, I can't think of anything, but then I'm used to the "originals" that, as far as I know use straight 3.7V Maybe the gyro, micro or radio they use was designed for a higher voltage. My guess would be the gyro supply. It's possible that a gyro designed for phone handset use might not perform well when subjected to the deep drawdown of the battery when accelerating the motor when the battery is low. By boosting it, then regulating it to 3.6V (or whatever), it'll have a much more stable voltage and perhaps give a more uniform gyro response throughout the battery. Anyone notice the yellow doing that better? |
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Joined Sep 2007
477 Posts
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[QUOTE=zippiz;22565590]Regarding the battery it feels like i will wreck the helicopter everytime I insert an remove a bettery, I was sure there was something wrong with the lipos Im usgin. (TC551140 150ma).
Anyhow, I hope the fix, and the battery feels better soon and that I do not breake my heli when trying to insert the battery ![]() Thanks for the input, I will report back here ![]() /QUOTE] There is a wing on each side of the battery that goes into a slot in the battery holder. On my betteries, I very carefully filed a "slant" on the bottom side of the wing. This allows the battery wing to get started into the slot, then the ramp forces it up to where it contacts the battery. I filed a little shallower than 45 degrees and maybe 2mm. |
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